Another rod bearing failure. This one was bought back by Chrysler!

[cueship]

Found this while searching for a Track Pack car:

CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2013 DODGE VIPER SRT-10: 1C3ADEAZ0DV400060

"8/28/14
Chrysler Group,LLC VEHICLE REACQUIRED
Vehicle reacquired by the manufacturer pursuant to applicable state consumer warranty laws or to promote customer satisfaction.

Reason provided by Manufacturer:
Engine bearing failure"

As some of you know, my orange TA had the same problem at a little over 5K miles. And yes, I was checking and changed the oil. This is obviously a manufacturer's defect since we know of new cars with just a couple hundred miles suffer rod bearing failures.

I'm compiling a list of Gen Vs that have had rod bearing failures. Myself included, it looks like the list is about 15-20 right now. This is just from what I've gathered on the net.

Please PM if you have anything to share. I will keep you and your car anonymous if you wish. Really starting to wonder how many documented cases there needs to be before a lawyer would start a class action suit...

 

[Camfab]

Why would you start a class action law suit. Did you not get covered properly?

 

[rlhay2]

So a supplier ships a bad batch of parts and you want to sue the car manufacturer even though they are repairing the affected cars...I don't get it.

 

[AZTVR]

I think that it is admirable to compile and post how many vehicles have had similar failures so that the word can be spread. However, I have seen nothing that would remotely suggest that getting lawyers involved in a class action lawsuit is warranted. I understand that you must feel that you were screwed by the Chrysler corporation, and it is a natural reaction to want to F with them also. I just don't see the basis yet for a class action lawsuit. Of course, that never stopped anyone from wanting to reel in some money before, and plenty of jawyers waiting in the wings.

 

[Bobpantax]

Thank you for the data.

So as I understand the facts, you experienced a rod bearing failure and elected to lemon law the car as opposed to having the engine repaired under warranty at no cost to you. The dealership then offered you a white TA to replace the orange TA and you accepted it. Then you sold the white TA because you preferred the orange color. ( Data from your other thread.) Subsequently, you have decided to make it your mission to locate other similar problems.

Observations:

1. If you liked the orange TA, you should have had the engine repaired under warranty. It would have come back perfect and you would have benn given a rental while you waited.

2. Your decision not to have the engine repaired is difficult to understand.

3. You did not answer my question in the other thread concerning what you were doing in the car when the rod bearing failed. Please answer it so that we can understand the dynamics of the failure. Were you using launch control? Were you shifting without letting up on the gas? What? It certainly did not happen at idle.

4. The timing and tenor of your posts is a bit suspicious since the new Z06 has recently not faired so well against the Viper in roll on races and it seems peculiar that this subject has come up at this time and this is your eighth post.

5. By "tenor of your posts" I am referring to your clear attempt to smear all Gen Vs by the suggestion of a class action when the idea is patently absurd as long as the warranty is being honored.

6. This is not a Star Wars scenario. FCA is not the evil empire and you are not Luke Skywalker.

 

[lateapex]

15 to 20 is a big number and google cannot find a single other case, other than the one you pointed out. I called 2 dealers…one who is the largest dealer in the US. Zero cases. Hmmmmm.

 

[Free2go]

Thank you for the data.

So as I understand the facts, you experienced a rod bearing failure and elected to lemon law the car as opposed to having the engine repaired under warranty at no cost to you. The dealership then offered you a white TA to replace the orange TA and you accepted it. Then you sold the white TA because you preferred the orange color. ( Data from your other thread.) Subsequently, you have decided to make it your mission to locate other similar problems.

Suspicious indeed.

 

[cueship]

Wow, this is a funny forum. I see why more enthusiasts hang out over at Driveviper. Night and day difference.

Anyway, my old orange TA and the car in the Carfax report are two separate cars. There's also this one: http://youtu.be/AXvBsR-P8wg

Here's the thread on that car with the rod knock: http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6353-Serious-problems-with-my-Gen-V-need-help

Here's another one with an engine failure: http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6462-Another-Viper-with-a-serious-problem

And another: http://driveviper.com/forums/thread...-serious-problem?p=95569&viewfull=1#post95569

And another: http://driveviper.com/forums/thread...-Gen-V-need-help?p=94968&viewfull=1#post94968

I know of several others from other sources (private messages, speaking to certain dealerships such as Roanoke Motors, Chuck Tater, etc).

While I can not speak for the others, my car was never on a race track. Sure I did pulls with friends on the highway and drove the car hard. That's what these cars are designed for. I checked the oil frequently and changed it once. It was never low.

Suggesting this is some conspiracy theory because I like the Corvette is hilarious. I hate Corvettes. I've owned two Gen Vs and two Gen IVs. I am considering buying a 2015 now that I sold my second TA but not until I know for sure that the rod bearing issue has been fixed and does not 2015 models.

 

[cueship]

If you read the whole story on the other forum you would have seen that having the engine replaced in my orange TA was not a realistic option for me. Since the dealer that sold me the orange TA marked the car as sold to the owner of the dealership prior to selling it to me, I was not due a $15,000 voucher according to them. So while I could have opted to have the orange car fixed, I would not have received the voucher. Taking the white TA and $5K cash was a "special deal" they worked out with Tim K's "lieutenants" to make me whole. Which would you rather have, a used 5K mile TA with the engine replaced or a brand new white TA and $5K? I took the latter and then sold the white TA.

Ever since owning the orange TA I had always heard something a little noisy but I assumed that's just how these engines sounded. I thought it was something in the valvetrain, not the bottom end but just wasn't sure nor concerned because it wasn't that loud. The night it went boom was when I was doing a few pulls on the highway with my buddies. No missed gears, no launch control, nothing like that. Just some highway fun. It's a Viper... It's supposed to be raced and driven hard. It's a TA - Time Attack. A purpose built race car. As evidenced by the links in my post above, I think I have proven my case that this is not some bogus claim I am trying to make and that there are several dozen if not more cars that are affected by this manufacturing defect. Why you guys haven't heard of it on this forum is beyond me. Maybe you need to sign up to the other forums to actually read about what's going on in the real world with these cars?

BTW, my warranty was not originally honored. They refused to fix the car under warranty and I was forced to ship the car back to Ohio to the original selling dealer on my own dime in order to have it fixed. And i was without a Viper for 3 months.

Thank you for the data.

So as I understand the facts, you experienced a rod bearing failure and elected to lemon law the car as opposed to having the engine repaired under warranty at no cost to you. The dealership then offered you a white TA to replace the orange TA and you accepted it. Then you sold the white TA because you preferred the orange color. ( Data from your other thread.) Subsequently, you have decided to make it your mission to locate other similar problems.

Observations:

1. If you liked the orange TA, you should have had the engine repaired under warranty. It would have come back perfect and you would have benn given a rental while you waited.

2. Your decision not to have the engine repaired is difficult to understand.

3. You did not answer my question in the other thread concerning what you were doing in the car when the rod bearing failed. Please answer it so that we can understand the dynamics of the failure. Were you using launch control? Were you shifting without letting up on the gas? What? It certainly did not happen at idle.

4. The timing and tenor of your posts is a bit suspicious since the new Z06 has recently not faired so well against the Viper in roll on races and it seems peculiar that this subject has come up at this time and this is your eighth post.

5. By "tenor of your posts" I am referring to your clear attempt to smear all Gen Vs by the suggestion of a class action when the idea is patently absurd as long as the warranty is being honored.

6. This is not a Star Wars scenario. FCA is not the evil empire and you are not Luke Skywalker.

 

[cueship]

Another blown engine here at 155 miles: http://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ly-6-miles-on-it?p=90627&viewfull=1#post90627

 

[cueship]

And while some of you may think "what's the big deal if it gets fixed under warranty?" It IS a big deal. From my thread on the other forum... Here's why I'm hesitant to purchase another Gen V.

Purchasing a car that you know may have a rod bearing issue down the road is ill-advised. I say that for the following reasons:

1) Even though my TA was bone stock when it developed the rod knock and I did absolutely nothing wrong (didn't see the track even one time but even if it did that's what this car is designed for!), my local dealer refused to fix the car. They fed me a bunch of different excuses ranging from their tech has never done one before, they're worried that Chrysler won't reimburse them for the claim (more BS), and then they said they pulled the "blackbox" data and say that rear tires were spinning at a different speed than the fronts which suggests that I was "drifting" the car lol. They also demanded their rental car back that same day. A few other guys on this same forum went through the same ordeal with their local dealer refusing to fix the car and replace the engine under warranty. You have to ask yourself "do I really want to go through this" or is it better to just buy a different car altogether? That's something each person will have to ask themselves.

2) After my local dealer refused to fix the car, I had to pay out of my pocket to ship it back to the original dealer in Ohio. I was also without a Viper for 3+ months. These were summer months when everyone else had their toys out. It sucked. Nobody should have to go through this on a brand new $100K+ car. Again, why take the risk? Why not just buy another car? BTW, when the dealer in Ohio got it they told me the Northeast rep manager actually VOIDED my warranty in the computer. He had to get his zone rep manager to override it before the warranty repair was authorized. Un-****ing-real!

3) Who wants to pay all that money for a new supercar and have a local dealer take the whole thing apart, monkeying around under the hood, parts removed, replaced, put back, maybe they don't torque everything properly, who knows. For me, when I purchase a brand new supercar I don't want the hassle of it being ripped apart and dicked with. That's just me though.

4) When the engine was replaced in my orange TA, it was recorded on the Carfax. This sort of thing can be scrutizined by potential buyers and hurt the value of your car since it can scare some people away. I mean why would somebody buy my old TA with a replaced motor when you could buy one that's never been monkeyed with for the same price?

5) I bought the TA because I intended to modify it with basic bolt ons. I wanted to take it to a few road course events and maybe down the dragstrip a few times. Knowing about the rod bearing issue and the major headache I went through when my TA was bone stock and never raced, I can only imagine if the car was modified, tuned, etc. Even if you put it back to stock first before bringing it in, who knows what they'll find or what kind of BS they'll come up with to deny your warranty claim. Again, it's just not worth it... Rather buy a different car.

So until I can find out for sure that the 2015s have been fixed, I'm sitting this one out on the sidelines.

 

[lateapex]

Thank you…all I wanted was data…not what appeared at first blush to be a number pulled out of thin air.

 

[Free2go]

Wow, this is a funny forum. I see why more enthusiasts hang out over at Driveviper. Night and day difference.

Your logic was legitimately questioned. You could have left the above quote out and probably garnered more sympathy to your plight.

 

[Bobpantax]

Interesting. So you bought the car used from the owner of the dealer? How many miles were on it when you bought it? What may have happened is that the owner or some clown who works at the dealer abused the car before you bought it. It has been known to happen.

In the case of the Gen V, if the launch control is not used correctly and someone has the clutch engaged; gas pedal to the floor;and, pops the clutch, it can result in a massive unmanaged torque event which can break things. Another event that can break things is a missed shift to a lower gear if the nanny tech is turned off.

The Gen V engine is robust but not bullet proof. No engine is bullet proof.

BTW, the Gen V is not a purpose built drag racer. It is a purpose built road racer with the TA variant being the most purpose built for road racing.

As for your links above, they are not all the same. Reading through them shows that most were from low oil.

If you read the whole story on the other forum you would have seen that having the engine replaced in my orange TA was not a realistic option for me. Since the dealer that sold me the orange TA marked the car as sold to the owner of the dealership prior to selling it to me, I was not due a $15,000 voucher according to them. So while I could have opted to have the orange car fixed, I would not have received the voucher. Taking the white TA and $5K cash was a "special deal" they worked out with Tim K's "lieutenants" to make me whole. Which would you rather have, a used 5K mile TA with the engine replaced or a brand new white TA and $5K? I took the latter and then sold the white TA.

Ever since owning the orange TA I had always heard something a little noisy but I assumed that's just how these engines sounded. I thought it was something in the valvetrain, not the bottom end but just wasn't sure nor concerned because it wasn't that loud. The night it went boom was when I was doing a few pulls on the highway with my buddies. No missed gears, no launch control, nothing like that. Just some highway fun. It's a Viper... It's supposed to be raced and driven hard. It's a TA - Time Attack. A purpose built race car. As evidenced by the links in my post above, I think I have proven my case that this is not some bogus claim I am trying to make and that there are several dozen if not more cars that are affected by this manufacturing defect. Why you guys haven't heard of it on this forum is beyond me. Maybe you need to sign up to the other forums to actually read about what's going on in the real world with these cars?

BTW, my warranty was not originally honored. They refused to fix the car under warranty and I was forced to ship the car back to Ohio to the original selling dealer on my own dime in order to have it fixed. And i was without a Viper for 3 months.

 

[steve e]

Here is a fun story I would like to share, it may or may not matter, but food for thought. When I bought my GT 500 mustang they offered me a free oil change, yea do not do me any favors I would not let them touch my car. So anyway I go to the parts counter 3 weeks after I bought the car to pick up a qt of oil, the GT 500 must have full synthetic 5-50W. The parts guy said we do not have that, so I ask what do you do when a GT 500 comes in for an oil change, Oh we use what ever is back there, its all good oil. Well from what little I know thats not good. Was a good quality oil of the right weight used, when engines are new the bearings are tight, can spin one if you used crap oil. Who knows.

 

[jjrho]

interesting thread….i'm a newbie to vipers…..have #66 TA…1050 miles now…..corsa exh. mod that's it….oil changed with dan C at 700 miles….
learning the car….starting to push to redline now……

what are the symptoms of this failure thing? does it happen suddenly or give symptoms… ?

even more dumb Q, does the viper have a traditional dip stick oil level checker or some type of low oil level warning on the dash ? my turbo and panamera both have oil level indicator on the instrument panel….really handy actually….

appreciate ur answers to above,


thanks

james R
#66 T/A
so.calif

 

[FrankBarba]

even more dumb Q, does the viper have a traditional dip stick oil level checker or some type of low oil level warning on the dash ? my turbo and panamera both have oil level indicator on the instrument panel….really handy actually….

Yes they do have a dip stick and a gauge. Forget the idiot buttons (as us old guys call them)

Congrats on the Viper TA. I just have 1 question ? Did the Paneramera have a dip stick? I'm not poking fun. I ask because last week i was at a C-Store watching 3 young guys i'd say early 20's. I was entertained for almost 2 hours watching these guys try to jack up a car, figure out how to use the socket for the wheels. Then looking for the spare tire. Now that was funny. I guess i could have gone over, changed the tire for them, packed their car back up...Sent them on their way, laughing "can you believe it. we don't know how to change a tire, and got someone to do the work for us", But maybe these guys didn't have a dad or maybe no one to take look up to, maybe even no body to help mold their life". While watching them i did suggest that they go to You Tube to watch a video on how to change a tire.....

 

[AZTVR]

even more dumb Q, does the viper have a traditional dip stick oil level checker or some type of low oil level warning on the dash ? my turbo and panamera both have oil level indicator on the instrument panel….really handy actually….

No, there is no electronic level indicator or warning. There have been posts that warn that when you check the oil level, make sure that you note the level on BOTH sides of the dipstick, not just the side with the level indicator markings. Use the lower level as the actual level. Keep the oil at the full mark and check often in the first xxxx miles. It has been reported that some Gen Vs can use quite a bit more oil than folks expected as a normal process of the engine seating in and it can get low faster than expected. If you know Dan C, you have the perfect person to ask questions of.

 

[wikkid]

interesting thread….i'm a newbie to vipers…..have #66 TA…1050 miles now…..corsa exh. mod that's it….oil changed with dan C at 700 miles….
learning the car….starting to push to redline now……

what are the symptoms of this failure thing? does it happen suddenly or give symptoms… ?

even more dumb Q, does the viper have a traditional dip stick oil level checker or some type of low oil level warning on the dash ? my turbo and panamera both have oil level indicator on the instrument panel….really handy actually….

appreciate ur answers to above,


thanks

james R
#66 T/A
so.calif

Are you serious, or just completely lost......

 

[jjrho]

ok..
well, the porsche panamera does not have a oil dip stick that i know of…it's checked via dash display,…

yes, ii m "lost" re: issues about the bearing failure…

re: oil dip stick…. haven't checked oil level yet after my first change at 700 and i have 1050 now so….given what i read so far, i should…. and obviously it's traditional dip stick method, albeit there is an issue of which side to read…which is just non-sensical to me for now…..if the dip stick is going down to the oil pan pre much vertically, why would it make a difference which side you read it at ?!??
i'm sure i'll get an 'answer' from someone here…. with some sarcasm, which i will enjoy…

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

The dip stick does not go perfectly vertical into the pan so the reading can be skewed a little. I would suggest going by the lowest markings on the stick and then transferring it around to the other side to see where the level is in regard to the hash markings. The pan is long and shallow so a low reading on the stick can translate into a very low condition.

 

[Allan]

.............The new Viper is apparently not much improved technologically from the earlier versions.

Most higher-end Euro cars have no Neanderthal designed 'dipstick method' for checking the oil, and have a display in the dash for checking the oil level.

They also have much more efficient ways of changing gear ratios in the transmission while driving the vehicle.
The new Viper is just like the old ones. There is a mechanical lever in the middle of the center console where there should be a cup holder or some buttons or something.
The driver has to move the lever back and forth to change gear ratios in the transmission. Unbelievable how primitive this car is.



.....................If you feel the need to check the oil on a Viper, you have to get out of the car and open the hood.

 

[AZTVR]

.............The new Viper is apparently not much improved technologically from the earlier versions.

It does apparently have the whizz bang electronic dash display and other electronic doodads like the Euro cars have , plus leather all over the place. Who the heck are they trying to market this car to?


_________________________________________________
Jim – ‘02 GTS ACR gray/silver -- sold – ( enthusiastic custodian for 8 years )

 

[Boxer12]

I think this dipstick issue is a red herring...cars don't burn oil these days (esp low mile exotics) unless tracked and the 1/32 width of a dipstick isn't going to lead to an oil starvation issue IMO. More likely, logically, its from cars or motors sitting and not being lubricated properly as a result. Personally, although I have a fancy car with a fancy oil level indicator, I don't rely on it and always rely only on a visual check with the dipstick especially at the track. Just my 2c.

 

[Jack B]

Here is reality

1. The G5 with forged pistons does consume oil the first 2000-4000 miles. Ring groove design is way diff from cast pistons

2. The dipstick enters a very shallow pan at an angle. There is a 3/4" diff (2 qt diff) on the two sides of the dipstick.

My point is, we don't any more disinformation on this topic, as Bob pointed, this thread is already full of inaccurate info.

Here is what oil my G5 consumed:

1000 miles : 1.5 qt
1000-2000: 2 qt
2000-3000 1 qt
no consumption after 3000

I think this dipstick issue is a red herring...cars don't burn oil these days (esp low mile exotics) unless tracked and the 1/32 width of a dipstick isn't going to lead to an oil starvation issue IMO. More likely, logically, its from cars or motors sitting and not being lubricated properly as a result. Personally, although I have a fancy car with a fancy oil level indicator, I don't rely on it and always rely only on a visual check with the dipstick especially at the track. Just my 2c.

 

[Bobpantax]

Thanks for the post Jack. I must have gotten a "tight" engine. I had no noticeable oil loss during the break in period. ( I changed the oil out at 1000 miles) and although a bit dirty, the oil level was normal when I had the oil changed this past week after another 3200 miles. Perhaps the car received a little extra attention during production since, to my knowledge, it was the first black TA delivered in the country. The DOM ( date of Manufacture) was 12/13/2013 and I picked it up on 12/22/2013.

 

[ViperJeff]

Thanks for the post Jack. I must have gotten a "tight" engine. I had no noticeable oil loss during the break in period. ( I changed the oil out at 1000 miles) and although a bit dirty, the oil level was normal when I had the oil changed this past week after another 3200 miles. Perhaps the car received a little extra attention during production since, to my knowledge, it was the first black TA delivered in the country. The DOM was 12/13/2014 and I picked it up on 12/22.

You sure that MDH isn't 11/13/2013? (MDH 111312)

And I show it the first by over a month to the second being 12/18/2013, how did you manage that?

Congrats
Jeff

 

[Bobpantax]

Sorry. Typo. I meant 2013. And yes, the DOM, which is shown on the door sticker, is correct - 12/13/2013. How did that happen? If I told you, I would have to send you to Guantanamo. LOL.

Best,

Bob

You sure that MDH isn't 11/13/2013? (MDH 111312)

And I show it the first by over a month to the second being 12/18/2013, how did you manage that?

Congrats
Jeff

 

[ViperJeff]

I just laughed when I saw it, has to **** to have #1.. and be a distant 2nd

Good for you
Jeff

 

[Free2go]

You sure that MDH isn't 11/13/2013? (MDH 111312)

And I show it the first by over a month to the second being 12/18/2013, how did you manage that?

I have the answer to that:

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