Any problems with drilling the rear for a drain plug?
- Thread starter ViperJoe
- Start date
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
I drilled out the middle low side cover bolt hole instead. The bolt then becomes the plug. Fluid comes out slower, but didn't create a whole new hole and didn't have to use a tap to thread anything. Just need a drill diameter smaller than the thread size.
HP
Enthusiast
It's just as stated, no problems. The hardest part is filling it back
up with fluid. Best to remove the rear passenger tire to get a better angle
at the fill hole.
up with fluid. Best to remove the rear passenger tire to get a better angle
at the fill hole.
MHQC
Enthusiast
HP
Enthusiast
It is so simple that the only thing you really need to consider is what
size NPT plug you want to use - then make a note of the drill bit size.
The location is just as noted - you can eyeball it.
I started with a small bit and worked up - just keep in mind that you need to
slow down the speed as you approach breaking through - and you need to try and
limit the aluminum shaving being retained in the housing - which takes little
effort since they tend to be long spirals that stick to the drill bit.
Coat the drill bit and pipe tap with sticky grease to hold the aluminum pieces.
You can either get the allen steel plugs that are listed or go to home depot
and pick up brass copies with male wrench fitting. When you run the tap through - do it in stages of 3 or 4 turns, then back it out and clean it off. You can't go wrong.
size NPT plug you want to use - then make a note of the drill bit size.
The location is just as noted - you can eyeball it.
I started with a small bit and worked up - just keep in mind that you need to
slow down the speed as you approach breaking through - and you need to try and
limit the aluminum shaving being retained in the housing - which takes little
effort since they tend to be long spirals that stick to the drill bit.
Coat the drill bit and pipe tap with sticky grease to hold the aluminum pieces.
You can either get the allen steel plugs that are listed or go to home depot
and pick up brass copies with male wrench fitting. When you run the tap through - do it in stages of 3 or 4 turns, then back it out and clean it off. You can't go wrong.
joe117
Enthusiast
I'm not sure if it crosses over but on sailboats we would never use brass bolts on an aluminum part.
This may have no science behind it but that's what I always heard.
This may have no science behind it but that's what I always heard.
b3rndtt0ast
Enthusiast
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some times when you mix metals, it will effectivly create a battery (Alum and copper) and also corode.
Snakester
Enthusiast
I did this on my Viper also without any difficulties at all.
I printed out the illustrated install, and also put some grease on the drill bit to attract stray shavings and it worked fine.
I did this when I swapped out the gears, and it was MUCH easier to drain the oil (after the new gear break-in) with the tapped drainplug installed.
-Dean.
I printed out the illustrated install, and also put some grease on the drill bit to attract stray shavings and it worked fine.
I did this when I swapped out the gears, and it was MUCH easier to drain the oil (after the new gear break-in) with the tapped drainplug installed.
-Dean.
HP
Enthusiast
Most anytime you mix metals, you get corrosion. Some combinations are
worse than others, that's why you put Teflon tape or anti-seize grease on
the threads.
RT/ED
Enthusiast
Here is another alternative that was previously suggested on the site. Go to your local hardware store and spend $10 on a hand pump for adding or romoving fluids. It comes with different size hozes and fittings for pumping air as well as fluids. I used this to remove differential fluid. It removed 98% of what went back in to replace it. It is excellent for pumping new fluid back into the rear or transmission with no mess! 
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