Anyone had to replace a rear tire on a V yet?

[HogWhisperer]

Developed a leak last night in the right rear tire on the V last night. (damned the luck) The tire warranty information in the manual does not cover the Perelli tires on the Viper. And since the tire can't be plugged/patched without losing the Z-rating, it will probably need to be replaced. I took a pretty close look at the tread face on the tire all the way around and found no obvious puncture and I spit tested the valve and didn't see anything glaring. Not sure what warranty covers and what it does not but in the event I am stuck with purchasing a new tire it looks like about a $500+ hit. Tire has 1500+ miles on it...

Anybody have experience with this as of yet?

Thanks!

 

[ViperSmith]

Saw this at 900 miles

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And only turned out to be this big

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There are a few threads here on patching - if you aren't using the tire for racing then I don't see much wrong with patching (not plugging).

 

[SRTviper]

It is really dangerous to patch a high performance tire. You better not go over 100 with it if you are going to patch it. I got tire insurance with the shelby for 300 bucks so anytime I get a nail and I've had 2, the tire is replaced for free and without arguments.

 

[kratedisease]

If your tire has no punctures, and the sidewalls show no leaks on a spray/bubble test, and your valve tip does not leak, than check the small gasket where the valve/pressure sensor is mounted against the rim. These small gaskets are used to seal the valve tire pressure sensor where it passes thru the mounting hole in the rim and can cause slow leaks that are virtually undetectable. This gasket can only be checked from inside the tire once you remove the pressure sensor. Examine this gasket for deformity or pinching.

 

[Policy Limits]

bet its a thousand bucks...hope it gets sorted...keep us updated.

 

[NastyGTS]

Per Tire Rack:
Pirelli P Zero Max Performance Summer
Rear(each) 676.00
From(each) 338.00

Pirelli P Zero Corsa System Streetable Track & Competition
Rear(each) 898.00
Front(each) 490.00


Ouch, its one thing if they are worn and time to replace......but with a pinch of miles....that *****. Ive been there.....except I ruined a tire and the wheel. 24 miles on that car.

 

[BlackSnake99]

I'd use a leak in a tire as an excuse for new lightweight wheels and 4 brand new Sport Cups.


But that's just me.

 

[VIPER GTSR 91]

Just had this happen too on a new tire with my 09 ACR. As mentioned above you really need to get a new one for safety rather than a patch. Call Luk at the tire rack to order one.

 

[SADVIPER]

maybe the electronic gauge failed?

 

[swexlin]

Michelin Pilot SS. As good as, or better, a tire.

 

[HogWhisperer]

If your tire has no punctures, and the sidewalls show no leaks on a spray/bubble test, and your valve tip does not leak, than check the small gasket where the valve/pressure sensor is mounted against the rim. These can small gaskets are used to seal the valve tire pressure sensor where it passes thru the mounting hole in the rim and can cause slow leaks that are virtually undetectable. This gasket can only be checked from inside the tire once you remove the pressure sensor. Examine this gasket for deformity or pinching.

Sage advice. I will have them check it when they break the tire down. Thanks. (I'll be sure and video the process) ;-)

 

[HogWhisperer]

It is really dangerous to patch a high performance tire. You better not go over 100 with it if you are going to patch it. I got tire insurance with the shelby for 300 bucks so anytime I get a nail and I've had 2, the tire is replaced for free and without arguments.

Agreed... New tire if there is a need for patching. Tire insurance sounds pretty good about now....

 

[HogWhisperer]

That would be nice but I don't think so. It is flat.. Takes about 40 minutes to go from 29 psi to won't register on the gauge...

 

[HogWhisperer]

Thanks for the replies, everybody!

 

[JETSTAR]

I usually never buy and of the extended warranties or insurance when i buy a car but $200.00 for 4 years of tire insurance it was a no brainier this time.
I had new Pirelli P Zeros on my ZR1 with 500 miles on them hit a *** hole not a big one either and cracked the sidewall they would not warranty it
also you can take the wheel off and either spray it down with soapy water or dunk it in a kitty pool. Make sure its not the wheel

 

[HogWhisperer]

Wow, I'm all for soft rubber but glass? Yep, that's what it was. Got it plugged patched and calling around for prices on a new tire. Dealer here quoted me $813.00 + tax +15 for mounting and balance. YIPES! Thanks again for the replies....

 

[ViperSmith]

Yeah, the rears are around $850 each.

 

[Nine Ball]

It is really dangerous to patch a high performance tire. You better not go over 100 with it if you are going to patch it. I got tire insurance with the shelby for 300 bucks so anytime I get a nail and I've had 2, the tire is replaced for free and without arguments.

You should walk around with a helmet on, all the time. The sky is always falling, with you.

Please read: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=77

The main reason tires "lose" their speed rating, is due to legal jargon. No tire company will assume responsibility for an altered product, and I don't blame them. So, it is easier to say "replace the tire" instead of "properly repair the tire". If anything, the high performance Z/Y rated tires will survive even better than the cheap Wal-Mart level passenger car tires, should both require a simple plug/patch repair.

The key is to make sure the repair is done properly. Not just a patch, not just a plug. A plug-patch. Installed from the inside of the tire. And, no damage to the sidewall or near the shoulder of the sidewall. It is actually better to get a nail straight into the middle of the steel belted area of the tread.

We are talking about a tiny rubber pinhole here, or maybe 1/8" of an inch once repaired. That isn't going to cause any damage on a relatively new tire. The tire itself gets compressed and warped just from normal driving, it is a very resilient product. The tire won't even know it has a repair.

Think about it. If Discount Tire thought a plug-patch was unacceptable, do you think they would repair tires for free and take on that liability? Nope. Just use a little common sense here, and judge the tire damage on a case by case basis. Some can't be repaired safely, but most can.

Tony

 

[Policy Limits]

next issue is consistent tread from side to side; so do u replace the companion tire s well so u have even tread/performance? think it depends on mileage/wear on the other one, though doubt there's excessive mileage this early.

 

[bluesrt]

a patch would be fine if a competent person patched it, i do it all the time with no problems (no sidewall) why would it not? anything or body telling you not is just to cover thier ass, now if your going on the cannon ball run, maybe reconsider

 

[Lee00blacksilverGTS]

Wow, I'm all for soft rubber but glass? Yep, that's what it was. Got it plugged patched and calling around for prices on a new tire. Dealer here quoted me $813.00 + tax +15 for mounting and balance. YIPES! Thanks again for the replies....

Paul, welcome back, great to see you here, sent you a PM.

 

[Bill Pemberton Woodhouse]

Many Tire Dealers will no longer patch or consider a high performance tire due to the nature of the car, g loads, stopping power , etc. It is a liability issue and as many of the guys mentioed above ( I noted a couple of the track guys ) it should be replaced.

Frankly mounting a custom rim for $15 may be the one bargain?!

 

[VIPER GTSR 91]

Many Tire Dealers will no longer patch or consider a high performance tire due to the nature of the car, g loads, stopping power , etc. It is a liability issue and as many of the guys noted above ( I noted a couple of the track guys ) it should be replaced.

Frankly mounting a custom rim for $15 may be the one bargain?!

Bill is exactly right and a speed shop near me that does tire work also said the same thing. For spending 100k plus for a car, another 850.00 for security and safety should not be an issue.

 

[Nine Ball]

Good tire repair info, from the industry authority on tires.

http://www.rma.org/tire-safety/tire-repair/

Very detailed .pdf document on the subject.

http://www.rma.org/wp-content/uploads/prp_wallchart1111.pdf

 

[Hemotoxic]

You should walk around with a helmet on, all the time. The sky is always falling, with you.

Please read: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=77

The main reason tires "lose" their speed rating, is due to legal jargon. No tire company will assume responsibility for an altered product, and I don't blame them. So, it is easier to say "replace the tire" instead of "properly repair the tire". If anything, the high performance Z/Y rated tires will survive even better than the cheap Wal-Mart level passenger car tires, should both require a simple plug/patch repair.

The key is to make sure the repair is done properly. Not just a patch, not just a plug. A plug-patch. Installed from the inside of the tire. And, no damage to the sidewall or near the shoulder of the sidewall. It is actually better to get a nail straight into the middle of the steel belted area of the tread.

We are talking about a tiny rubber pinhole here, or maybe 1/8" of an inch once repaired. That isn't going to cause any damage on a relatively new tire. The tire itself gets compressed and warped just from normal driving, it is a very resilient product. The tire won't even know it has a repair.

Think about it. If Discount Tire thought a plug-patch was unacceptable, do you think they would repair tires for free and take on that liability? Nope. Just use a little common sense here, and judge the tire damage on a case by case basis. Some can't be repaired safely, but most can.

Tony

Thanks for the facts, from somebody who knows wheels.

In return, may I suggest:

Putting SRTViper on ignore is the very best decision you can possibly make in your entire life.

 

[kratedisease]

Anytime I get a nail in anyone of my tires, I just replace all four. This way the tread levels will always be the same..... and I keep a log in the car to remember how many turns I took to the right and how many turns I took to the left so I have even wear on each side. An if I find I am turning more to one side, I just go around the block on the other side to even things out. I also have a tire tread wear tool to make sure I am wearing even on all four tires...I am concerned that if one tire has less tread my car will be like a table with a short leg.