Hisserman
Enthusiast
Have you got any tips or pictures of how you did it? Thanks.
Anyone hard wire their Valentine V1 to their GTS?
- Thread starter Hisserman
- Start date
had mine a few years, the sparky that wired it said there was a spare switched iginition fuse available that he tapped into on the fusebox, to save chopping into any wires.
do a search there will be lots of info on this subject
heres one of them
do a search there will be lots of info on this subject
heres one of them
S
SUN RA KAT
Guest
I've got the long telephone wire that comes with the V1 going under the dash, up the A-piller under the post cover, and along the top of the windshield under the cover. It comes out where the mirror is and plugs into the V1 there. The other end of the telephone wire is attached to the cigarette lighter plug that comes with the V1. It's a whole lot easier than a real hard wire and looks almost as good.
Mounted mine low in the center. Be careful not to have it look "through" the radio antenna. I was able to tuck the wire between the dash and the windshield defroster deck without any problem. From there I just ran it under the dash to the wires on the back of the cigarette lighter where I mounted the little adapter thing the V1's come with. Very easy and did not have to deal with headliner or pillar. The V1 saved me several times on a "spirited" run through the OK panhandle last Sunday.
Detlef
Enthusiast
Send me your email address and I'll email you a PDF file with instructions. Basically all you need is a small fuse tap and insert the fuse block tap onto fuse #6. This is a switched power location. THen run the V1 supplied telephone wires any which way. It's very easy.
Y2K5SRT
Enthusiast
I hardwired mine in my GTS a few years ago along with the remote display which I put on the top of the steering column. That way the main unit stays "dark" even when you have a cop right on your tail. It also made it easy to swap back and forth with my other vehicles.
AJT
Enthusiast
Hisserman
Enthusiast
Neil --
I'm searching.
Craig --
I'll bring the manual tomorrow night.
Detlef --
You have a PM.
Thanks guys.
I'm searching.
Craig --
I'll bring the manual tomorrow night.
Detlef --
You have a PM.
Thanks guys.
Achilles99
Enthusiast
I did mine like Detlef suggested, but I couldn't find a fuse tap. So, I grounded the black wire to a screw in the fusebox, and wrapped the red wire around the leg of a switched fuse. Then, I plugged the fuse back in. Voila. Done in 30 seconds.
I ran the wires up the A-pillar, across the top of the windshield, and plugged the V1 up right above the rear-view mirror. That way, there is hardly any viewing obstruction. Also, mounting it higher makes it easier to read radar from the back of your car. I though about mounting low, but it didn't seem to have as good of line-of-sight.
I ran the wires up the A-pillar, across the top of the windshield, and plugged the V1 up right above the rear-view mirror. That way, there is hardly any viewing obstruction. Also, mounting it higher makes it easier to read radar from the back of your car. I though about mounting low, but it didn't seem to have as good of line-of-sight.
Ron's writeup:
" Re: V-1 hard wire advice
#243249 - 02/24/03 03:22 PM Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply
Parts List (for a GENII Install):
A) 1 – Valentine One Radar Detector $399.00
B) 1 – Valentine One Remote Display $39.00
C) 1 – Radio Shack ATM Fuse Tapper Kit Part # 900-7186 $2.49
D) 1 – Radio Shack Fuse Holder Part # 270-1217 $1.89
E) 1 – Radio Shack One Amp Glass Fuse Part # 270-1005 $1.39
F) 1 – Radio Shack Ring Terminal Connector Part # 64-3118 $1.49
G) 1 – 3/4” x 2” strip of sheet metal (can even cut out of a can) -
H) 5 – Inch strip of Black Velcro -
I) 1 – Can of flat black paint -
J) 1 – Length of heat shrink tubing -
Tools:
Soldering Gun
Crimping Pliers
Electrical Tape
Philips Screwdriver
Shorty Philips Screwdriver
Volt / Ohm Meter (Helpful, but not required)
1. To help visualize the installation process, it’s best to first remove the lower knee pad underneath steering column. There are 6 Philips screws including the one facing the door (which will require the short screw driver). In addition, you must “pull off” the pedal adjustment knob.
2. Your first assembly step is to set up the V1 power supply. It will be installed with Velcro on the driver’s side wall of the under dash area directly west of the fuse panel. (north being the front of the car and west representing the driver side). Consider this as you decide on your wire lengths. No need having excessive length, but any extra can be rolled, wire-tied and left under the dash.
3. You set up the power supply by first crimping one side of the fuse holder (D) wire to the fuse tap connector (C) (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). The other side of the fuse holder can be soldered and sealed with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to the red (+) lead of the Valentine One (V1) power supply (Photo F). The black lead of the V1 power supply should be crimped to a Ring Terminal Connector (F).
4. Insert the fuse block tap onto fuse #6. This is a switched power location. Use the spade closest to fuse #10 as this is the fused side, (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). Then connect the fuse tap connector to the tap itself. Next, connect the ring terminal ground to the screw to the left of fuse #1 just outside the fuse box case. (Photo A)
5. Connect the supplied short V1 modular cord (looks like a phone cord) to the remote, fish it behind the top of the steering column down to the V1 power supply and connect to the “Accessories” socket. Clean the top of the steering column housing with a dab of alcohol and the place a joined piece of Velcro on the bottom of the remote display, peel the adhesive backing and apply between the tach and speedo. (Photo B)
6. Connect the other longer modular cord to the V1 power supply socket labeled “Main Unit” and fish the wire up around the dash panel, up the “A” pillar and across the top to the windshield over to the rear view mirror. Depending on how your windshield was installed, you might need a bit of black electrical tape to hold the wire in place. You will need to make final adjustments after the V1 is mounted so do not tape extensively until mounting is complete. (Photo C). You can then attach the V1 Power Supply to the driver’s side wall under dash with Velcro.
7. Make sure the mirror is properly positioned for viewing, then position the V1 on the right side of your rear view mirror so that it is balanced and wedged against the windshield with its front top. Mark the V1 with a pencil so you know where to place the Velcro strip. Clean the top of the mirror with alcohol, place the Velcro strip on the bottom of the V1, peel the adhesive backing and mount, being careful position the V1 level and facing forward. (Photo D)
8. Noticing the angle of the back of the rear view mirror and the bottom on the V1, bend your piece of sheet metal according. Once you have the correct compound angle, clean the metal with alcohol and paint black. After it dries, place Velcro on top and back sides so that the V1 is supported in front. (Photo E)
9. You can now install the one amp fuse in the fuse holder and turn the ignition on so you can test the installation. Assuming all is well, you can now reposition the wires to hide exposed slack and replace the knee pad. The V1 can be removed (carefully) for use with its suction mount and cig-liter adaptor in other vehicles or just removed for servicing security. The Velcro attached to the V1 unit will not hinder its use in standard V1 mounts.
10. I have found the install to be reliable, stable and secure. It can be easily and completely removed at any time leaving nothing to indicate that it was ever installed.
Don't have time to post the photo's right now, but will later tonight. Will also post a PDF if anyone wants.
Ron - '96 GTS "
...and this: http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=256618&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
" Re: V-1 hard wire advice
#243249 - 02/24/03 03:22 PM Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply
Parts List (for a GENII Install):
A) 1 – Valentine One Radar Detector $399.00
B) 1 – Valentine One Remote Display $39.00
C) 1 – Radio Shack ATM Fuse Tapper Kit Part # 900-7186 $2.49
D) 1 – Radio Shack Fuse Holder Part # 270-1217 $1.89
E) 1 – Radio Shack One Amp Glass Fuse Part # 270-1005 $1.39
F) 1 – Radio Shack Ring Terminal Connector Part # 64-3118 $1.49
G) 1 – 3/4” x 2” strip of sheet metal (can even cut out of a can) -
H) 5 – Inch strip of Black Velcro -
I) 1 – Can of flat black paint -
J) 1 – Length of heat shrink tubing -
Tools:
Soldering Gun
Crimping Pliers
Electrical Tape
Philips Screwdriver
Shorty Philips Screwdriver
Volt / Ohm Meter (Helpful, but not required)
1. To help visualize the installation process, it’s best to first remove the lower knee pad underneath steering column. There are 6 Philips screws including the one facing the door (which will require the short screw driver). In addition, you must “pull off” the pedal adjustment knob.
2. Your first assembly step is to set up the V1 power supply. It will be installed with Velcro on the driver’s side wall of the under dash area directly west of the fuse panel. (north being the front of the car and west representing the driver side). Consider this as you decide on your wire lengths. No need having excessive length, but any extra can be rolled, wire-tied and left under the dash.
3. You set up the power supply by first crimping one side of the fuse holder (D) wire to the fuse tap connector (C) (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). The other side of the fuse holder can be soldered and sealed with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to the red (+) lead of the Valentine One (V1) power supply (Photo F). The black lead of the V1 power supply should be crimped to a Ring Terminal Connector (F).
4. Insert the fuse block tap onto fuse #6. This is a switched power location. Use the spade closest to fuse #10 as this is the fused side, (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). Then connect the fuse tap connector to the tap itself. Next, connect the ring terminal ground to the screw to the left of fuse #1 just outside the fuse box case. (Photo A)
5. Connect the supplied short V1 modular cord (looks like a phone cord) to the remote, fish it behind the top of the steering column down to the V1 power supply and connect to the “Accessories” socket. Clean the top of the steering column housing with a dab of alcohol and the place a joined piece of Velcro on the bottom of the remote display, peel the adhesive backing and apply between the tach and speedo. (Photo B)
6. Connect the other longer modular cord to the V1 power supply socket labeled “Main Unit” and fish the wire up around the dash panel, up the “A” pillar and across the top to the windshield over to the rear view mirror. Depending on how your windshield was installed, you might need a bit of black electrical tape to hold the wire in place. You will need to make final adjustments after the V1 is mounted so do not tape extensively until mounting is complete. (Photo C). You can then attach the V1 Power Supply to the driver’s side wall under dash with Velcro.
7. Make sure the mirror is properly positioned for viewing, then position the V1 on the right side of your rear view mirror so that it is balanced and wedged against the windshield with its front top. Mark the V1 with a pencil so you know where to place the Velcro strip. Clean the top of the mirror with alcohol, place the Velcro strip on the bottom of the V1, peel the adhesive backing and mount, being careful position the V1 level and facing forward. (Photo D)
8. Noticing the angle of the back of the rear view mirror and the bottom on the V1, bend your piece of sheet metal according. Once you have the correct compound angle, clean the metal with alcohol and paint black. After it dries, place Velcro on top and back sides so that the V1 is supported in front. (Photo E)
9. You can now install the one amp fuse in the fuse holder and turn the ignition on so you can test the installation. Assuming all is well, you can now reposition the wires to hide exposed slack and replace the knee pad. The V1 can be removed (carefully) for use with its suction mount and cig-liter adaptor in other vehicles or just removed for servicing security. The Velcro attached to the V1 unit will not hinder its use in standard V1 mounts.
10. I have found the install to be reliable, stable and secure. It can be easily and completely removed at any time leaving nothing to indicate that it was ever installed.
Don't have time to post the photo's right now, but will later tonight. Will also post a PDF if anyone wants.
Ron - '96 GTS "
...and this: http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=256618&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
KenH
Enthusiast
Beware of the fuse taps. The one I used ended up sprunging the contacts giving an intermittent contact on the fuse once I had removed the tap.
If you are planning on powering a couple of things, you might want to consider doing what I did. I got a fuse block from Napa that has 6 or 8 mini fuse locations and quick disconnect type connectors. That way you can tap into your power once, run it to the fuse block and then easily add/change connections later and each is individually fused. I mounted the fuse block on the side wall by the clutch pedal. I also put in a bolt through that side wall from the outside which gives me a good common grounding point for any electronic additions as well.
I tapped into the power by removing part of the plastic housing covering one of the switched fuses and soldering a wire to the unfused side which I then ran over to the fuse block. There may be a better way to tap into the unfused, but switched power, but I couldn't find it.
If your V1 install is semi-permanent like mine, I got some black plastic and heated it up and bent it into an 'L' shape. I then used the heavy duty grade velcro to velcro the shelf to the back of the mirror so that the 'L' formed a shelf at the top of the mirror and then velcroed the V1 onto the top of the shelf so it hung over the top of the mirror. Very sturdy arrangement (I hate suction cups) and looks clean both inside and outside the vehicle. Also gives good line of sight out the back window.
If you are planning on powering a couple of things, you might want to consider doing what I did. I got a fuse block from Napa that has 6 or 8 mini fuse locations and quick disconnect type connectors. That way you can tap into your power once, run it to the fuse block and then easily add/change connections later and each is individually fused. I mounted the fuse block on the side wall by the clutch pedal. I also put in a bolt through that side wall from the outside which gives me a good common grounding point for any electronic additions as well.
I tapped into the power by removing part of the plastic housing covering one of the switched fuses and soldering a wire to the unfused side which I then ran over to the fuse block. There may be a better way to tap into the unfused, but switched power, but I couldn't find it.
If your V1 install is semi-permanent like mine, I got some black plastic and heated it up and bent it into an 'L' shape. I then used the heavy duty grade velcro to velcro the shelf to the back of the mirror so that the 'L' formed a shelf at the top of the mirror and then velcroed the V1 onto the top of the shelf so it hung over the top of the mirror. Very sturdy arrangement (I hate suction cups) and looks clean both inside and outside the vehicle. Also gives good line of sight out the back window.
AJT
Enthusiast
Ken, Any pics??
Andy
Andy
KingSnake97
Enthusiast
What do you guys think about the K40 radar. It's under www.k40.com its already hard wired
Hisserman
Enthusiast
The k40 looks like a clean install. However, one problem with stealth installations is that the receiver(s) are mounted too low -- this is particularly true in a Viper, which is lower than the normal car. All the tests show that the higher you can mount a receiver in a car, the better, so that it intercepts signals over hills, etc. If the k40 receiver(s) could be mounted somewhere up high it would be an improvement.
Secondly, I have never seen a test on k40's results. Their guarantee is impressive, so it seems that they think it will work. I know from both test results and personal experience that my Valentine V1 works extremely well. I have an open mind on the k40, but would have to see some proof!
Thanks for posting, it's worth looking into.
Secondly, I have never seen a test on k40's results. Their guarantee is impressive, so it seems that they think it will work. I know from both test results and personal experience that my Valentine V1 works extremely well. I have an open mind on the k40, but would have to see some proof!
Thanks for posting, it's worth looking into.
KingSnake97
Enthusiast
Hisser I will do some looking as well, the k40 is the cleanest I've seen to date. and I have seen them take the laser out of the front plate holder and mount it in the front grill area. I think it was on an ILL gts club member Glenn Davis, But I don't know if he posts here??
I have the K40 front and rear with additional laser diffuser up front. The install (on the car when I bought it) is excellent....the controls are where the side view mirror knob was.
I can say though that I have plugged in the V1 from my plastic Chevy on occasion and I can absolutely say the V1 picks up radar way before the K40 does. Could be the design of the unit, or the low-mounted receivers, or both.
I never do any spirited runs without the VEC sittin' way up firm and high (Bob Seger) on the windshield. The K40 does keep me clean on those ticky tack 45mph in a 40 zone tickets though.
I can say though that I have plugged in the V1 from my plastic Chevy on occasion and I can absolutely say the V1 picks up radar way before the K40 does. Could be the design of the unit, or the low-mounted receivers, or both.
I never do any spirited runs without the VEC sittin' way up firm and high (Bob Seger) on the windshield. The K40 does keep me clean on those ticky tack 45mph in a 40 zone tickets though.
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