Anyone hit near 700rwhp on pump gas with a paxton?

Invasivore

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Kind of a tangent from the end of my other thread. My goal is to make enough power to pull away from pesky bolt-on GTR's on the highway when necessary. I know they trap in the 136-139 mph range in the 1/4. I know everyone on here will say just get twin turbo's, but I do not want to spend 20k + on a setup. I have a stock 98 and was wondering if maybe the Novi 2500 would be a better setup than the Novi 2000. Anyone experiment with this?
 

Nine Ball

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I'm at almost 900 rwhp on 93 octane, no methanol, built Gen 3 engine, Novi 2000. 12.5 psi boost.

You won't have enough rpm to spin a Novi2500 into its sweet spot range.
 

brentsGTS

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I see you still getting beat. Those gtr cars make power fast as your gonna have to wind-up so to speak. Do work for sure!
 

Jack B

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My NA 97 ran a 10.91 at 129 this year, that has to be close to 700 fwhp. It is capable of better times, that was a first outing after some winter tinkering. My 2013 came in and I have not had the time to get the 97 out again. Due to time constraints I made a decision, the 97 is going up for sale by the end of this week.
 
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Invasivore

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Yeah, looks like turbos it is btw, when i asked about if 700 rwhp could be attained, that was based on a stock motor 98 with headers. no head work
 
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SingleMalt

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So your plan is to buy a paxton and skimp on Headers/exhaust? How about fuel system? There are a lot of factors to consider when you start making over 600RWHP. You can't afford to "go cheap" if you want the setup to last. Call a reputable tuner and let them tell you what a 700RWHP setup "looks like." You'll find the cost of the Paxton is only a portion of the real expense to get that kind of power reliably.
 

DrumrBoy

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So your plan is to buy a paxton and skimp on Headers/exhaust? How about fuel system? There are a lot of factors to consider when you start making over 600RWHP. You can't afford to "go cheap" if you want the setup to last. Call a reputable tuner and let them tell you what a 700RWHP setup "looks like." You'll find the cost of the Paxton is only a portion of the real expense to get that kind of power reliably.
This is very true. Be prepared to make additions along the way (which is an annoying process) if you don't do it right up front.....
 

Stahlhart

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Hi,

BTW can somebody tell me, where I can get a 9PSI (3,25") Pully for my Paxton Novi?

Thanks

Jürgen
 
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Invasivore

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maybe ill have to wait for heads/intake mods after the supercharger down the road to beat him. What about the Novi2000 vs 2500 on an otherwise stock forged motor. Anyone try both out?
 

ZZ SRT

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maybe ill have to wait for heads/intake mods after the supercharger down the road to beat him. What about the Novi2000 vs 2500 on an otherwise stock forged motor. Anyone try both out?

From everything I have read, there is very little improvement unless you spin the motor much faster than stock maximum rpm. You also will need to flow alot of air meaning head work, cam, lower compression, etc to see ANY benefit. With a setup on a stock forged motor, you are just going to create more lag.

Buy the Novi 2000, if you ever max it out you can always swap but my bet is it doesn't happen.
 

JohnnyBravo

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From everything I have read, there is very little improvement unless you spin the motor much faster than stock maximum rpm. You also will need to flow alot of air meaning head work, cam, lower compression, etc to see ANY benefit. With a setup on a stock forged motor, you are just going to create more lag.

Buy the Novi 2000, if you ever max it out you can always swap but my bet is it doesn't happen.

I finally outran the Novi2000 and had to switch to the 2500. I've now outrun the 2500 as well. However, they don't make anything bigger, so I'm stuck where I am for right now. However, you are going to need heads/cam at a minimum before you outrun the flow of the 2000. I disagree about the compression, however. More compression in the motor means you'll make more power, not more lag. I dropped the compression on my motor from 9.5:1 to 9.0:1 so that I could run more boost on pump gas. But more compression isn't a bad thing. You just won't be able to run as much boost or you'll need to run better fuel if you do choose to run higher boost.
 
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Invasivore

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From everything I have read, there is very little improvement unless you spin the motor much faster than stock maximum rpm. You also will need to flow alot of air meaning head work, cam, lower compression, etc to see ANY benefit. With a setup on a stock forged motor, you are just going to create more lag.

Buy the Novi 2000, if you ever max it out you can always swap but my bet is it doesn't happen.

Do you have the 2 dyno graphs comparing both chargers from the vehicle you are talking about? Also which exact car and setup was this on?
 

SingleMalt

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Hi Invasivore,
Call Todd at A&C. He's tried the 2500 and has side-by-side (exact same setup) knowledge he can give you.
 

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johnny also has a very well built motor with huge flowing heads IIRC. that makes a big difference. most people are not going to outrun the novi2000.
 

ZZ SRT

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I disagree about the compression, however. More compression in the motor means you'll make more power, not more lag. I dropped the compression on my motor from 9.5:1 to 9.0:1 so that I could run more boost on pump gas. But more compression isn't a bad thing. You just won't be able to run as much boost or you'll need to run better fuel if you do choose to run higher boost.

I maybe worded it poorly. If you read it closely the mods I listed are saying you need to have a built setup with heads, cam, and with lowered compression to be able to up the boost and flow enough air to see a bump with the 2500. With stock compression, you are going to detonate on pump gas with the amount of boost you would need to see the difference between the 2000 and 2500, hence why I was saying you need to lower. Hopefully that makes more sense.
 

JohnnyBravo

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I maybe worded it poorly. If you read it closely the mods I listed are saying you need to have a built setup with heads, cam, and with lowered compression to be able to up the boost and flow enough air to see a bump with the 2500. With stock compression, you are going to detonate on pump gas with the amount of boost you would need to see the difference between the 2000 and 2500, hence why I was saying you need to lower. Hopefully that makes more sense.

Ah. Gotcha. That makes perfect sense. And I agree with that. In order to take advantage of the 2500, you absolutely need a built motor, big heads/cam, upgraded fuel and a lot of boost (and therefore, less compression). Otherwise, the 2000 is plenty.
 

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Out of curiosity, has anyone tried to mill the heads down a bit after porting them to bump UP the compression? For supercharged cars, boost is the enemy as with more boost, you have more hot air. When I had my S2000, a lot of people would drop the compression and up the boost while showing no overall gains in comparison to the engines that had the factory high compression and ran low boost. Tuning will be the trickiest part, but wouldn't we see a lot higher numbers accordingly?
 

plumcrazy

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you can bump CR and add boost if its done right with no problems. dropping CR is not needed at all on these cars
 

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