Anyone know about this Carbon Fiber Intake?

[Hoop]

eBay Motors: Dodge Viper Carbon Fiber Air Box Intake Gen 2 GTS RT-10 (item 310021434717 end time Feb-10-08 10:24:19 PST)

I bought it for $200, seems like a good deal since a K&N is $45 and smooth tubes would have been $75 - 100. I figured I'd get a good looking airbox to boot.

I have no idea who made it or if it's any good, but the fit and finish seems to be pretty high quality. Thoughts?

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[viper spray]

Some of those would rub on the hood , check clearance and mount carefully.

 

[Dan Cragin]

This looks like the box made for the Pre-Chiller system that never took off. I have a few of these. They need to be fitted but will work.

 

[Hoop]

Gentlemen, thanks for the posts. It did rub on the hood brace bolts and put a small scratch but appears to fit snugly now that it's all in.

The good closes without any extra pressure but I'm wondering if it's rubbing. The hood gaps on the bumper and around the lights were always bad, but look even bigger. Is this possible or would it be difficult to close?

Anyone know anything else about it? Once I got it apart I was a bit shocked to find the stainless steel frame that is designed for the filter to seat in had two screws and no "seal" so it was duct taped on the edges... Sorta felt like I was prototyping it. I resecured with screws and clear RTV, seems to seal aside from that.

 

[FE 065]

Buy some Play-Doh, put it on the intake/airbox in a few spots, close the hood, open it up again and see how far it's squeezed. Use some paper towels or newspaper on top of the Play-Doh if you're concerned about it getting mashed into your hood pad.

 

[Hoop]

Awesome idea. I was thinking about chalk or something. I'll have to beat up some kid in the neighborhood adn steal their playdough!

I took some pictures since this doesn't seem to be a terribly common install.

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[2001 GTS]

Looks pretty good for $200

 

[dave6666]

How many coats of wax is that on those hood hinge springs?

 

[wigginz]

How many coats of wax is that on those hood hinge springs?

Haha, no kidding... have you ever driven the car? Just driving it back from the dealer should show more wear than that. Wow.

 

[treesnake]

Isn't that the infamous "Vipair". I think that air box retails for about $1000.

 

[wigginz]

Isn't that the infamous "Vipair". I think that air box retails for about $1000.

Queue the moaning and groaning about bringing up the Vipair. It's not the Vipair, trust me.

 

[2001 GTS]

The vipair is a mysterious piece of plastic that fits in front of the air box that gives 100rwhp...

 

[Hoop]

Do you guys wax the hood springs? I had mine disassembled and powder coated. I also had the engine removed and coated with a high heat epoxy resin along with most metal parts. All you have to do is hose it off with spot-free water

Th car has 60,000 miles. I drive it every day it doesn't snow.

 

[SSSSE YA]

Isn't that the infamous "Vipair". I think that air box retails for about $1000.

I have seen the Vipair on Ebay for around 100 dollars..

 

[PAvenomRT/10]

What is the perceived or actual benefit of this airbox over K&N filters and smooth tubes?
PAvenom RT/10

 

[kwkshift]

I have ne of these, myself. I was actually trying to get it to fit yesterday afternoon.

Hoop, does yours sit properly on the 2 studs that are on top of the radiator?

I couldn't get mine to sit down on there because of my Roe upper radiator hose I know what you're talking about when you say theat the hood brace bolts rub. I just worry about when the engine torques under acceleration and deceleration what that will do the the airbox.

 

[SVS Turbo]

Does this airbox have air filters in it?

If so how do you keep them in place and how hard is it to remove them when they need to be cleaned?

Thanks

Ron

 

[Hoop]

What is the perceived or actual benefit of this airbox over K&N filters and smooth tubes?
PAvenom RT/10

The only benefit I hoped to get is looks because I paid almost the same for the new box as I would have for smooth tubes and a K&N... maybe the design of the box is slightly more forcefull at directing the air... maybe not.

kwkshift:
As far as fit on the radiator bolts, I know why your asking because it took some force (bolts were closer together than the holes). I would recommend making an 1/8th to 1/4 inch larger hole on the drivers side so the airbox shifts slightly to the passenger side and fits on the bolts. I also took a BFH to the aluminum brace that bolts to the back of the stock airbox. I can always bend it back up if needed.

Does this airbox have air filters in it?
If so how do you keep them in place and how hard is it to remove them when they need to be cleaned?
Thanks
Ron

Yes, Come on dude... To get to the filter you just remove 4 bolts on the sides and the cover pops off.
It's a rectangular filter that seats in a stainless steel frame within the airbox picture it laying flat, separating the top half of the box which flows in to the throttle bodies from the bottom, which is where the air enters.

 

[kwkshift]

Actually, the spacing of my holes and the studs line up correctly, but the airbox sits at a weird angle. For example, lets say the top of the radiator where the 2 studs are located is parallel with the floor, the mating surface of the airbox should match that and be parallel with the floor as well. If I put the airbox flat on the radiator cover where the 2 studs are, like they should be, then the rear of the airbox where the outlets are that feed the throttle bodies, point up towards the ceiling at too steep of an angle making it impossible for the hood to close properly.

I guess I could just put 2 couplers on the studs with some pieces of all-thread to lengthen the studs so that it bolts up. But I also just thought of the fact that I have a Fluidyne radiator in the car. Maybe it's a little taller than the stock radiator. (?)

 

[Hoop]

Could be the different radiator, but I don't think the factory box would allow the hood to close if the radiator was any taller.

I'd put the bolts on loosly first, put the tubes and sleeves on loosly too, then start tightnening up. The tube angles force the back to come down, use good size washers on the front bolts, when you tighten the bolts it sort of draws the whole box down. Without the back strapped in, it will stick up rather than the whole box squatting... I'll just say I'm glad it's carbon fiber because there is a lot of pressure on those bolts.

Also, just to verify, I had to bend the factory aluminum brace for the rear of the factory airbox down flat... if you don't do that you'll be SOL.

Let me know how it goes. If you drive out to Ohio, I'll help you get it in.

 

[SVS Turbo]

Yes, Come on dude... To get to the filter you just remove 4 bolts on the sides and the cover pops off.
It's a rectangular filter that seats in a stainless steel frame within the airbox picture it laying flat, separating the top half of the box which flows in to the throttle bodies from the bottom, which is where the air enters.

These carbon fiber airfilter boxes have been around for quite some time. I asked the questions because I've never seen one opened up to understand its functionality. Do you have any pictures to show what the box looks like from the inside?

Thanks

Ron

 

[Hoop]

Ron,

I wish I had taken some pics. I'f I'm under the hood this weekend maybe i'll pop the top off.