Battery Dead AGAIN 93' RT/10

jdoc7

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Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

Recently purchased a 93' RT/10 1500 miles on it and it looks like the battery was replaced in 11/05, 6/06, I replaced it 8/06, let it sit for 1.5 weeks, then it wouldn't start. I took the new battery to have it charged and it wouldn't hold a charge. Why are batteries dying on this thing? Does anyone have an easy way of finding the source of the drain? I bought a circuit tester (has a light) connected to the negative cable and negative post. I am going to start pulling fuses to see where the problem lies. Anyone else have an idea? Thanks! Another interesting tidbit is that when I hook up the battery tender to the front of the vehicle, it shows green meaning the battery is charged but the battery was clearly dead. I thought the battery tender was faulty but hooked it up to my other cars and it was fine. Is there a problem with the front connection to the battery in the trunk?
 

GotAViper

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Re: Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

does it have an aftermarket alarm or anything? Aftermarket stereo/amp?
 

GotAViper

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Re: Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

Some sort of light left on? map light? somethings gotta be draining it?
 

ballhog

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Re: Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

To get an idea which circuit is causing the drain. You could take off the positive cable connecting to the battery and place a meter inline, measuring amps. then pull the fuses out one by one until the amps drop. Or you could place the meter across the battery terminals, measuring voltage and pull the fuses. The voltage should increase when you pull the fuse to the circuit that is draining the battery.
It won't tell you exactly what is causing the drain, but it will get you close.
 

Gerald Levin

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Re: Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

jdoc7 What is the brand of the battery that went bad on you? Just had a diehard that was only a year old have a dead cell (on my Ram).

Ballhog, thanks for the great advice. I'm definitely going to file that away to use in the future.
 
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jdoc7

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Re: Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

jdoc7 What is the brand of the battery that went bad on you? Just had a diehard that was only a year old have a dead cell (on my Ram).
It was from Walmart, called 'Maxx' Never had a problem with these on past vehicles.
 

Ulysses

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Re: Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

When a battery shows fully charged but is obviously dead, it is usually a dead cell. The cause in this instance is likely due to a bad alternator.
 

RAYSIR

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Re: Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

WHOA!! A fully charge battery can't be dead!! Each cell in a battery has 2 volts. A dead cell it would only read 10 volts. On a Viper, since it's hard to get to the battery,As stated the best way to find a draw is to disconnect the + at the jumper under the hood. Hook at least a 10 amp meter in line with the post and cable. A 1.5 amp draw is a bulb,3 amp 2 bulbs, 6-7 amp is a bad + diode in the alternator. Disconnect alt wires does it go away? From there being an older car you could have voltage drop in the cables or to ground. To test them you have a volt meter(digital works best) set to volts and hook 1 meter cable, doesn't matter which,to + on battery the the other end to the starter. Turn the key to start and should be less than 1.0 volt drop.Do the same from battery to starter on the - side. If more drop you have cables with bad connects or internal corrosion. You have something besides a battery problem. I park mine from October to April with batteries unhooked at 30 degree weather. Reconnect the cable and VRRRMMMM.
 

Ulysses

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Re: Battery Dead AGAIN 93\' RT/10

A good cell is actually closer to 2.15V and a cell that is fully discharged is at 1.9V. Now if it's a dead cell, it could be floating around 1.9V. The best way to tell if the battery is bad is to put it on a load test. Otherwise, a battery with a dead cell can still fool you and the charger and look good until it is put into use.

There is no need to break the circuit and put in an in-line amp meter. They make amp meters that clip on to the main line. But for the cost of a clip-on meter or an in-line meter that can handle the amperage, it would probably be better to pull the battery and take it to a place that can load test it. A lot of places test it for free and all it will cost you is your time. Then you can at least rule out the battery and then go ahead and diagnose the rest of the system.
 
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