Battery disconnect point seized

[Joel]

Just went to disconnect the battery at the underhood jump start point and it seems to have seized the nut to the threaded post. Tried a fair bit of force but the whole thing,leads and all is starting to turn and bend. Can I put a wrench somewhere underneath to stop it turning or would a heat gun and WD40 help?

 

[SteveBCloud9]

I have the same issue. I've tried everything to get it to break loose. Nothing seems to help. With all of the torque you put on the nut, the whole thing starts to twist, scary. I Tried WD-40. Not sure what the next step is. I've become a pro at taking off the panel behind the tire.

 

[Nadine UK GTS]

I'd try and shock it undone. Can you use an air gun on it? Or hit a ring spanner or socket and breaker bar with a short sharp lump-hammer blow?

As your snake is not that old I'd be rather upset it's seized (Chrysler UK have had the **** steam cleaner in your engine bay, plays havoc with all the electrics connections too; speaking from experience!)

Good luck!

 

[RobHook]

Ok...first thing, forget the WD-40. You need a real penetrant like Liquid Wrench. It's probably the best on the market. Spray (or drip) that on and let it sit overnight.

I haven't looked at this particular connection but is it too near the plastic to use a torch? It's possible they used loc-tite on it. You'd have to heat it up to get it loose. Even if it's not loc-tite, heating it up will probably help a great deal assuming you can do it without melting anything else. Use a propane torch, NOT a MAP or welding torch. If the propane doesn't get it hot enough to come loose, there's nothing a hotter torch is going to do for you.

If you can't get to it with a nut splitter (or drill it out if it's a bolt) you might want to try a Dremmel. Those come in pretty hand for tight spots.

--Rob

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

RobHook is right. WD40 is no good.

Go to www.lawsonproducts.com and do a search for NON FLAMMABLE PENETRATING OIL

This stuff is awesome!

 

[SteveBCloud9]

Thanks for the insight! When the snake gets back Sunday, I'll try the heating method.....

 

[SteveBCloud9]

I took Larry's advise and took apart the unit. I managed to get the nut loose. Joel, here is what you need to do:

1) Cover your sill with a large cloth so you will not chip the sill when, and I do say when, you drop a tool on it.

2) Disconnect the battery behind the rear drivers side wheel.

3) Take off the outer black plate covering the side of the unit (4 bolts and 2 screws).

4) Unscrew the 3 screws that mount the unit to the car.

5) Cut the clip holding the wires on the front side of the unit towards the front of the car so you can move the unit out of position.

6) Unplug the plug connected to the wash tank, if need be, that is in front of the unit towards the bummber to make more room to move the unit around.

7) Take off the bottom plastic cover of the unit and turn it 90 degrees so you can access the nut under the unit.

8) Take the same size socket and place an extension on it to reach the nut that is on the underside. Lossen this nut almost all of the way.

9) Once the nut below is loose, you can push the seized nut/post unit up. This will give you access to the nut directly under the seized nut. Place a open end wrench on this and another on the seized nut and pry. I had to remove the 3 relays on the front of the unit and saw off one of the plastic clips to get an open end wrench under the seized nut.

That's it, It took me about 40 minutes. I hope this helps everyone out there with this problem. Good luck!

 

[Joel]

Thanks for the info, I'll try that as soon as I've finished all my mods which seem to be taking all my spare time over the last couple of weeks. I will emerge from the laboratory soon with a reborn viper !