Best Aftermarket Radiator

[DLTARNU]

What's the best aftermarket radiator for a Gen II?


Thanks!

 

[PhoenixGTS]

Fat Albert Motorsports in Phoenix has a proprietary unit made by Fluidyne. Albert says is has an integrated oil cooler they sell a kit with some sort of imrpoved fan. He claims that even in Phoenix it will keep the car under 190 if you have that low of a thermostat. It is usually listed in the classifieds but you can call him at 602-402-7692.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

I got mine from JonB Parts rack...it was a Ron Davis...I haven't tried it out yet since I am going through the Paxton ordeal... but it looked like a well built radiator. I heard Fluidyne had some leakage problems, but that is 2nd hand info.

 

[jk]

I also bought a Ron Davis based on feedback from others. It is a direct drop in with one exception. The original radiator has attached studs for mounting the shroud, whereas the Ron Davis as threaded inserts. I had to go buy some metric threaded bolts to attach the shroud to the radiator. Other than that is was a simple install. Looks very well built. Too bad you can't see more of it after it is in the car.

Ron Davis does make another style with an integral oil cooler if you want to go that route.

 

[DLTARNU]

Did you notice a temperature drop? If so, how many º's?

 

[Qualitywires.com]

This is my Ron Davi Radiator with a custome shroud duct I made. I used two SPAL 12 " fans. Both fans together pull over 3500 CFM. Ducting is everything,

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[DEVILDOG]

Ron Davis.....cool running.

 

[Casey]

Ron Davis here too!!

 

[DLTARNU]

For the people with Ron Davis radiators installed, what temp are you running at, what coolant are you using, and how many degrees did your temperature drop after replacing the stock radiator?

Thanks!

 

[EXECMALIBU]

HOW MUCH LOWER DOES A GEN II RUN WITH THESE RADIATORS?

MY 2001 RUNS AT 220-245 DEGREES ALL THE TIME...

WE TRIED ADDING A STANDARD TYPE RADIATOR UPGRADED WITH A THIRD ROW AND THERE WAS VIRTUALLY NO IMPROVEMENT OVER THE STOCK 2 ROW...

 

[DLTARNU]

EXECMALIBU,

Since you live in Cali, and probably don't have to worry about freezing temps, try Zerex Racing Super Coolant.

In a nutshell, the widely prescribed 50/50 water/ethelyne glycol mix that most of America uses is completly unecessary for those of us with warm climates year-round.

The anti-freeze component in coolant actually prevents heat from transfering efficiently.

With ZRSC, it uses a 90/10 water/'coolant' ratio, and I use the term 'coolant' erroneously because it's just really anti-corrosives - something to keep the water from rusting out your cooling system. The water is the actual coolant.

I've ordered a case already and will be changing out the existing coolant when it arrives (along with new radiator hoses from Roe Racing). I'll post the temperature difference, if any, once the change has been made. I run 196º - 198º right now. Oil change + smooth tubes + K&N filters cooled it off by 2º - 3º; no idea why.

If that doesn't make it run cooler (I'd like to be below 190º) I'll probably get an aftermarket radiator. As of right now, Ron Davis has gotten the most endorsements.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

I think with the larger radiators, if you are sitting in traffic, they won't make a big difference in temp. When you are moving and have airflow, it will allow you more time not to over heat. I think the key is to make sure you have plenty of airflow with either the fan kicking on at an earlier temp and maybe doing the hole thing in the thermo, but when you get heak soaked from sitting...there really isn't much you can do unless you have moving air from fans or driving..I could be wrong, but I think I'm pretty close. I got the Rod Davis Radiator due to wanting to run cooler with my fans kicking on earlier to buy more time in traffic until I can get the car moving. Anytime you run more HP, it will generate more heat. That is why I bought the Spal fans...they are high quality and pull a lot of CFM.

 

[EXECMALIBU]

UNRATLD,

THANKS FOR THE INFO..
BUT I ALREADY TRIED EVERYTHING OVER THE PAST 18 MONTHS!!...I HAVE SPENT $1,500+ (WITH THE CAR STILL UNDER FACTORY WARRANTY) AND THE CAR HAS BEEN DOWN IN THE SHOP FOR OVER 4+ MONTHS TRYING TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM...

ARROW REBUILT THE ENGINE ....

THEN I TRIED......

1. THE ORANGE COOLANT THAT SHAWN ROE RECOMMENDED..
2. ADDED THE WATER WETTER...
3.80 THERMOSTAT...
4.NEW WATER PUMP...
5.TRIED 75% WATER..
6. ADDED THE THIRD ROW TO THE RADIATOR...
7. CHECKED THE FANS ARE RUNNING..
8. THE GAUGE IS NEW...
9. BURPED THE SYSTEM..(20 TIMES)
10. REPLACED PCM...

I HAVE NOT CUT THE FACIA YET BUT I AM NOT SURE HOW MUCH DIFFERENCE THAT WILL MAKE? I HAVE GOTTEN CONFLICTING STORIES...

I AM REALLY GETTING FED-UP TRYING TO COOL THIS CAR DOWN...I DO NOT ACCEPT THAT TEMPS UP TO 245+ DEGREES ARE NORMAL AND/OR ACCEPTIBLE!!

LAST WEEKEND I HAD AN SRT THAT WE USED FOR VERY HIGH SPEED STUNTS IN 100 DEGREE WEATHER AND THE CAR NEVER GOT PAST 210 DEGREES!!! I ALSO HAD 3 FERRARIS AND 2 VETTES AND THEY ALL RAN AT UNDER 200 DEGREES.....THEY IDLED FOR LONG PERIODS AND THEN WENT BALLS OUT WITH VIRTUALLY NO TEMP CHANGE!!!

MY BONE STOCK (355 GEARS) 2001 RT ON A COOL 75 DEGREE DAY RUNNING DOWN THE FREEWAY AT 80 MPH RUNS AT 220-240 DEGREES OR MORE!!

I LOVE THE VIPER BUT THIS CAR MAY BE A LEMON...

ANY OF YOU GUYS LIKE HOT LEMONADE??

 

[Ron]

You said you replaced the gauge. Sender too?

 

[Go Fast For Life]

I have one of the Fat Alberts radiators. Sitting in traffic the engine gets to the third mark in the center of the temp gauge (a little past 190). But if I am moving at all, the temp is 190 or less. (This is with my 542 engine- not just the 488.)