Best back for the buck mods??

SRTRICKY

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So what mods do you think are the best bang for the buck?? I was thinking about getting new headers but they are pretty expensive with the belanger's retailing at $2500+. Do most guys with paxton supercharger get headers as well? I am looking to do a paxton when my pockets are deep enough but for now I was trying to think of a few things to do to get the car ready for the paxton!! Also am I missing out on some poser mods that really make the Viper stick out?? So far on my list of must haves by the end of this summer:

1) HRE 545r (19/20 combo)
2) Moton (Club Sports)
3) MGW Interior Accessories
4) 3.55's
5) Racelogic Traction Control
6) HID Fog Lights if possible (I'm a poser :D )

Ricky :cool:


I almost forgot to ask is there anything I can do to the car when I install the 3.55's other then getting a Quaife diff. to prevent a failure??
 

WANTED

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ricky for $150 you can send me your bezels and have them painted like this, for
the dollar you can't beat it. really makes the interior look much better. IMHO

6041PICT0099-med.JPG

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above i did my red 2003 srt/10


just did the 2004 silver

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i like this better then the stock factory look shown below

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now for another $150 you could change your emblems (venomblue sells them here)

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for the real poser aprrox. $300 painting the hood pad

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nice car cover to match $300

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powder coat emergency brake approx $100

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well these are just a few rather easy and inexpensive items you might like

tom
 
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SRTRICKY

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Thanks for the picturs and ideas Tom! I think I'll paint my center console like that as well. Those emblems from VB550 are they the entire emblem or are they just stickers that go on top? Which ones woudl go well with red?
Ricky
 

DSR207

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Ricky, headers are not a must if you are going to super charge, however, they allow more HP with the proper tuning.
Ok, now for "poser" mods, it's a never ending list, so doing some your self help save you some money.........
$3.75 (I can of paint spray), $ 1.99 (paint tape) and 1 beer......
You must be registered for see images
 

VIPER D

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RICKY

Are you going for show or hp?

If its show then the rims are the biggest show inprovement you can do.


If its power you go for a btr nos sys. Its 1/2 the cost of a full header exhaust package, and it will make you about 700 crank hp. plus it also looks very trick.

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vd..


ps mine is for sale.
 
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SRTRICKY

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Mike..Your hoodliner came out really nice! Not sure if I could pull that off myself!

vd...Thanks for your suggestions as well. I'm trying to go with the best of both worlds here. My first goal is to make the car LOOK its best and then 2nd comes in my goal to make the car faster. I was trying to limit myself so I don't spend too much!!

After all of my above I'll still have 5k that I can spend but not sure about exactly what I want...thats where you guys need to come in :smirk:

Oh by the way I'd like to stay away from nitrous :2tu:
 

FLYNLO

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Mike..Your hoodliner came out really nice! Not sure if I could pull that off myself!

vd...Thanks for your suggestions as well. I'm trying to go with the best of both worlds here. My first goal is to make the car LOOK its best and then 2nd comes in my goal to make the car faster. I was trying to limit myself so I don't spend too much!!

After all of my above I'll still have 5k that I can spend but not sure about exactly what I want...thats where you guys need to come in :smirk:

Oh by the way I'd like to stay away from nitrous :2tu:

Definitely some rims would come first, then the moton club sport suspension. I would go with a nice set of HRE 545's 20's in the back with 19's in the front. After the rims and suspension, I would do the Paxton blower. That is all.
 

Art 138

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I would suggest you do the standard Paxton SC upgrade. 700HP which the motor and powertrain in stock condition can handle. The Paxton system is adjustable; later in life if you upgrade the internals of the motor,you can adjust the Paxton to give you up to 900 hp. The system (Paxton) is very easy to remove for future motor upgrades. Determine what 700 hp does for you and then save money for your other wish list. Unless you are planning on tracking the snake, I doubt that you will want more than 700 Hp for street applications.
 
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SRTRICKY

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Car is strictly street use no tracking at all! I don't want to take any chances with the paxton messing up my engine since I have an corsa track and high flow cats on my car and the paxton is safe with no other mods at all without a good tune. I don't know of any good tuners in BC and I'm not sure if I should be upgrading the injectors etc. Also would I need a VEC2? When I start needing all these things it starts to get a lot more expensive! Now only if some shop would sponsor me and give me a deal on it all :eek: . This is why I was thinking stick with all show at least for the next little bit while I have warrenty. The 3.55's are supposed to really wake the car up so maybe I won't need to get carried away with the performance aspect!
Ricky
 

SnakeEye

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Ricky, if you do nothing else performance wise move on the 3.55's - makes all the difference.
 
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SRTRICKY

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Ricky, if you do nothing else performance wise move on the 3.55's - makes all the difference.

Marc,
If you had a chance to do it all over again would you stick with your 3.55's and the Paxton or would you go with something like 3.33's or even keep your 3.07s? Is traction a major issue? I usually don't do any "normal" driving. I only use the Viper when I want to go out for a cruise for fun and I'm usually driving it pretty hard! So I don't know if the 3.55's plus paxton will get a little carried away.
Ricky
 

SnakeEye

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Ricky, if you do nothing else performance wise move on the 3.55's - makes all the difference.

Marc,
If you had a chance to do it all over again would you stick with your 3.55's and the Paxton or would you go with something like 3.33's or even keep your 3.07s? Is traction a major issue? I usually don't do any "normal" driving. I only use the Viper when I want to go out for a cruise for fun and I'm usually driving it pretty hard! So I don't know if the 3.55's plus paxton will get a little carried away.
Ricky

3.55's are the shitz whether or not you've gotten Paxtonized. Just ask anyone who's made the change! You'll no doubt appreciate the gears all the more since you really drive the machine - keeps the engine on boil for ya. Look at it this way; 1st gear is like a sling shot with no bog out the hole, 2nd and 3rd pull like absolute mad, 4th gear is crazy fun and will top you out just shy of 140mph and 5th becomes a true friend and will launch you into hyper speed, and finally 6th is actually usable. Now go make the appointment to get your 3.07 misers pulled and report back how pizzed you are for waiting so long. :D
 
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SRTRICKY

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Marc,
Another question for you. What did you use to tune the paxton kit since you have exhaust mods etc. done on your car? VEC2? I don't want to send my car 500+ miles down rather have my own mechanic do it but I'd just like to find out how tuning etc. is done. I can get him to go to a shop with a dyno with me to do the tuning just curious on exactly what I need to do it. I only have the Corsa track and high flow cats done plus i'd have the 3.55's 19/20 combo if that matters and the K&N would come off since theres no way of keeping it on with a Paxton kit!
 

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Ricky, the [basic] Paxton set-up is basically calibrated for a stocker but will produce even greater gains (sounds way meaner too!) with the Corsa Track system you've already got. So...to keep things simple if you didn't mind reinstalling the factory cats you shouldn't have to do any custom programming whatsoever which does keep costs down and also reduces the chance for error. Just do the dyno with a/f mix check as a final precautionary measure and you are ready to take nearly everything in your path. The hi-flow cats and K&N intake would likely sell fast should you go that way. The power levels you can expect from this are north of 735HP. Plenty enough to put a serious grin on…
 

wormdoggy

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I really like the painted emblems under the hood. Just wondering what kinda' paint you guys used and temperature rating. I imagine the heat of the engine will take it right off if the right paint isn't used????

Cheers
Patrick
 
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SRTRICKY

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Marc,
My Corsa track has the bigger openings so it doesn't work with the stock cats :( . Also I wanted to keep the car under 700 rwhp even if I do upgrade the internals. I wanted to do the velocity performance gen 3 package with includes: "The kit comes with a Paxton supercharger, larger injectors, new injector clips, modified fuel rails, O2 simulators". It says on there the "split second" needs to be modified etc. and was curious on how exactly that is done and how to modify the a/f just in case it is off. I really don't want to take any chances on making too much power and messing up the Vipers engine! I'd rather be safe then sorry. Thats why I was curious on how exactly the car must be tuned and if anyone has an idea on how much larger, injectors, new injector clips, modified fuel rails, and o2 simulators cost?? Also do I need to modify anything else? Finally if I modify all of the above can I take it over 700 and be 110% safe?
Ricky
 

DSR207

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SnakeEye, what is your 60 foot time with that combo (paxton plus 3.55's)and do you still have the stock rear end ?

Wormdoggy, I used high temp spray paint, I have headers and supercharger (meaning my car gets very hot) and it's been in the nineties around here lately, no problems... :2tu:

Ricky, I got VEC2 because of the headers and for future mods, you don't need it for the paxton,I agree with Marc (SnakeEye), get a good tune,make sure you're not running lean, have your mechanic check and tune your air to fuel ratio and that's it. :2tu:
 

SnakeEye

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Ricky...you can go with the Velocity pkg but??? The basic Paxton alone with the track system will already get you north of 735FWHP with an engineered safety level built in. As for the bigger openings to accommodate the hiflows, a competent muffler shop could fairly cheaply fab a reducer if necessary to allow for the factory cats to be reinstalled. No disrespect meant but just curious if you've regularly driven a car that's in the sub 4.5lb/hp range. I ask this because I think with the regular Paxton and the 3.55 gear torque multiplier you probably will be floored with the new found performance of your SRT-10. Anyway, it's not like you can't upgrade later if you should so desire. Hope I've helped a bit good luck.


Mike...sorry don't have any 60' times for you but the end result with the 3.55's will undoubtedly offer a noticeable improvement in the 1/8 and 1/4 times and mph vs with the miser 3.07's - that's what matter most eh. FWIW, I also think the 60' should be better as well provided a decent track.
 
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SRTRICKY

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Fastest car I drove before the Viper was my stock c5! I guess I might just have to get the reducers made and sell the high flow cats. Should I just throw the entire factory exhaust back on or will the Corsa track be fine? Do you have any other mods to your Viper other then the Corsa, paxton, and 3.55's? Did you do anything other then use whats already included in the paxton kit since you do have the corsa, 3.55's, etc. I really did want to keep the cats in though just because I love the sound so much! So basically what I was trying to figure out what what do I have to do to the car in order to be tottally safe AND keep the corsa & high flow cats on.

Also anyone know if the Paxton Air Cleaner and Hood Interference problem is fixed?

Ricky
 

DSR207

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Marc, my 60 foot time is beyond horrible, with the 3.07.

Ricky, as far as I know they haven't fixed that problem.
If you have a good mechanic, Keep the car as is, get the paxton kit and do what is needed after the install and tuning...You will love it :2tu:
 

jeremy@matrix

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So what mods do you think are the best bang for the buck?? I was thinking about getting new headers but they are pretty expensive with the belanger's retailing at $2500+. Do most guys with paxton supercharger get headers as well? I am looking to do a paxton when my pockets are deep enough but for now I was trying to think of a few things to do to get the car ready for the paxton!! Also am I missing out on some poser mods that really make the Viper stick out?? So far on my list of must haves by the end of this summer:

1) HRE 545r (19/20 combo)
2) Moton (Club Sports)
3) MGW Interior Accessories
4) 3.55's
5) Racelogic Traction Control
6) HID Fog Lights if possible (I'm a poser :D )

Ricky :cool:


I almost forgot to ask is there anything I can do to the car when I install the 3.55's other then getting a Quaife diff. to prevent a failure??

Hey Ricky,

Are you in BC?
Let us know if we can help with #5.

Best,
Jeremy
 
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Just an add on for you guys thinking about a cost effective upgrade. We have just finished our first upgraded Paxton kit with the cats replaced and the Corsa track system. We used the 42# /hour injectors and the VEC2 for fuel control. We had no real issues other than placement of the additional hardware in the car.
On the day we were scheduled for the dyno it was 97 degrees and 73% humidity! We were all in awe at the fact we generated 834HP at the crank over and over in this heat with a very safe A/F ratio. Once the calibration was complete and we cooled the car for 1hour it made over 850 crank HP! I cannot wait to see what this beast will make on a cooler day! Very reliable and as far as the bang for the buck it cannot be beat in the Viper world of Mods.
We do suggest that you consider the Moton clubsport upgrade though to help harness the extra power and improve your safety/comfort levels.

Mark Jorgensen
Woodhouse Performance
800-889-1893
 

jeremy@matrix

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Just an add on for you guys thinking about a cost effective upgrade. We have just finished our first upgraded Paxton kit with the cats replaced and the Corsa track system. We used the 42# /hour injectors and the VEC2 for fuel control. We had no real issues other than placement of the additional hardware in the car.
On the day we were scheduled for the dyno it was 97 degrees and 73% humidity! We were all in awe at the fact we generated 834HP at the crank over and over in this heat with a very safe A/F ratio. Once the calibration was complete and we cooled the car for 1hour it made over 850 crank HP! I cannot wait to see what this beast will make on a cooler day! Very reliable and as far as the bang for the buck it cannot be beat in the Viper world of Mods.
We do suggest that you consider the Moton clubsport upgrade though to help harness the extra power and improve your safety/comfort levels.

Mark Jorgensen
Woodhouse Performance
800-889-1893

(FYI everyone, Woodhouse Viper/Performance is an authorized Racelogic Traction Control Distributor Specialist). Add that to the Paxton/Moton package Mark. :)
 
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SRTRICKY

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So what mods do you think are the best bang for the buck?? I was thinking about getting new headers but they are pretty expensive with the belanger's retailing at $2500+. Do most guys with paxton supercharger get headers as well? I am looking to do a paxton when my pockets are deep enough but for now I was trying to think of a few things to do to get the car ready for the paxton!! Also am I missing out on some poser mods that really make the Viper stick out?? So far on my list of must haves by the end of this summer:

1) HRE 545r (19/20 combo)
2) Moton (Club Sports)
3) MGW Interior Accessories
4) 3.55's
5) Racelogic Traction Control
6) HID Fog Lights if possible (I'm a poser :D )

Ricky :cool:


I almost forgot to ask is there anything I can do to the car when I install the 3.55's other then getting a Quaife diff. to prevent a failure??

Hey Ricky,

Are you in BC?
Let us know if we can help with #5.

Best,
Jeremy

Yeah I am in BC but I won't be doing any mods to my car anymore. I'm going to start school again full time and need a daily driver so I'm going to buy something like a g35 and do mods later since I won't have the $$ for both! Starting something tottaly new in school (starts sept) and I won't be done for 5 years :eek: . Going to try to become a CA...I think its called a CPA (accountant) in the states!
Ricky
 

jeremy@matrix

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So what mods do you think are the best bang for the buck?? I was thinking about getting new headers but they are pretty expensive with the belanger's retailing at $2500+. Do most guys with paxton supercharger get headers as well? I am looking to do a paxton when my pockets are deep enough but for now I was trying to think of a few things to do to get the car ready for the paxton!! Also am I missing out on some poser mods that really make the Viper stick out?? So far on my list of must haves by the end of this summer:

1) HRE 545r (19/20 combo)
2) Moton (Club Sports)
3) MGW Interior Accessories
4) 3.55's
5) Racelogic Traction Control
6) HID Fog Lights if possible (I'm a poser :D )

Ricky :cool:


I almost forgot to ask is there anything I can do to the car when I install the 3.55's other then getting a Quaife diff. to prevent a failure??

Hey Ricky,

Are you in BC?
Let us know if we can help with #5.

Best,
Jeremy

Yeah I am in BC but I won't be doing any mods to my car anymore. I'm going to start school again full time and need a daily driver so I'm going to buy something like a g35 and do mods later since I won't have the $$ for both! Starting something tottaly new in school (starts sept) and I won't be done for 5 years :eek: . Going to try to become a CA...I think its called a CPA (accountant) in the states!
Ricky

Well then, good luck with your endeavors!
 

GR8_ASP

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So how do you know the hp at the crank? If you measured the rear wheel amount post that as is more accurate. Translating a RWHP number to crankshaft is just an estimate (unless of course you measured your vehicles efficiency/parasitic loss).
 
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Actually we have found that the RWHP number is the one that is the most misleading because of the different types of dynos and the calibration factor. We use a Mustang dyno that is the same as the factory uses on the Viper to rate horsepower. On this dyno we use a 1.25 correction factor to get the crank HP. Our RWHP numbers were 680 although this would translate to 740 if you used a Dynojet with the correction factor of 1.15. We do prefer the Mustang though as it provides a good load to the wheels to simulate driving forces while tuning. Every tuner will have a different theory but as long as you are confident the numbers are safe and repeatable that's what really matters when tuning.
 
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Jeremy you are correct we are very excited about having the Race Logic T.C. to offer. We have had great success with it on race cars but have yet to install one on a street customers car. We would be willing to work with someone that is interested in this exceptional system if we could use your car for the tuning process. There is alot to be gained from proper tuning of the system once installed and this takes time and will put some miles on the car not to mention a little tire wear :smirk: .

We estimate with all the wiring and tuning that we would need the car for at least two weeks and the actual install can take easily 2 days to do properly. I would be willing to discount this system and the labor if I had a taker with the Paxton willing to experiment.
 

GR8_ASP

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Actually we have found that the RWHP number is the one that is the most misleading because of the different types of dynos and the calibration factor. We use a Mustang dyno that is the same as the factory uses on the Viper to rate horsepower. On this dyno we use a 1.25 correction factor to get the crank HP. Our RWHP numbers were 680 although this would translate to 740 if you used a Dynojet with the correction factor of 1.15. We do prefer the Mustang though as it provides a good load to the wheels to simulate driving forces while tuning. Every tuner will have a different theory but as long as you are confident the numbers are safe and repeatable that's what really matters when tuning.

Wrong. All engine ratings are done on an engine dyno under very controlled circumstances. Certainly no OEM uses a chassis dyno for engine rating. Mustang or otherwise. Any chassis dyno that attempts to determine the engine rating is doing nothing more than estimating it based on the RWHP. A good dyno will use the spin down rate against a known applied torque to estimate the driveline loss and thus an estimated engine rating, or a motoring torque for those dynos capable of motoring. A poor dyno would just apply a straight percentage.

Beyond that both types of dynos have their plusses and minuses. Overall the Mustang has more capability as it is a load absorbing dyno rather than inertial. That allows steady state testing and tests at a defined acceleration rate whereas the Dynojet has a fixed inertial load and the rate of acceleration is purely based on the RWTQ (which is engine torque less driveline loss less driveline and wheel/tire inertia). One could say that the Dynojet measures the ability of the vehicle to accelerate (which is what we really want). The Mustang can as well given the appropriate dyno algorithm.
 
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