Bleeding the brakes - installing new brake lines?

[Vipersrule]

Where is the best place to get information on bleeding the brakes and installing new brake lines? I've got the Viper service manual and have done a lot of work on cars - just never the brakes.

Is it something that I can do safely? Do I need any special tools to change out the brake fluid and bleed the brakes?

Can anybody with experience in this area give me some tips?

Thanks

I want to put on steel brake lines with high temp fluid.

 

[Janni]

Most likely you will get some plugs / caps with your new lines. You can use those to plug the stock ends so that you don't lose all your fluid while installing new lines. Having flare wrenches are helpful for brake line fittings.

The service manual has the brake bleed procedure - basically after adding the lines you will have to purge any air that was introduced. Start with the right rear, left rear, right front and then left front, using inner/outer/inner for the front caliper bleed screws. Bleed extra amounts this time to be sure to 1) flush the old stuff and 2) remove any air.

 

[Ron]

You might want to consider a pressure or vacuum bleeder as the standard "pump the pedal" method is not very successful on ABS equipped vehicles.

One option is Motive Products

 

[Vipersrule]

You might want to consider a pressure or vacuum bleeder as the standard "pump the pedal" method is not very successful on ABS equipped vehicles.

One option is Motive Products

That's exactly what I was looking for - that'll help a lot - thanks........

 

[jcaspar1]

I recently used the Motive unit to bleed the brakes after I installed a StopTech front kit and rear SS lines (also used it to diagnose an exhaust leak but that's a different story ). Worked great. Let me know if you have any questions on it. If you are like me, you will need at least 2 pints of fluid. I used Motil 600 RBF but there are a lot of other good choices.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

I have nothing to offer since I'm not familiar with vehicles with Anti-lock brakes. But all the suggestions above work great on the year 2000 and older cars.

 

[Ron]

As an additional comment, some say that using the "pump the pedal" method runs the master's piston / o-ring beyond it's normal travel within the master cylinder and risks tearing the o-ring and possibly displacing dirt. This is because you typically press the brake pedal to the floor as you bleed each wheel.

One suggestion is to cut a block of wood that limits the brake pedal to normal use travel thereby keeping the piston / o-ring assembly within the normal cylinder wear area.

Obviously remove the wood block before a road test.....

 

[Jay Lopez]

I use this brake bleeder. http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=85700

 

[JimT 99RT]

Motive bleeder with the miller adapter called out in the service manual is the way to go, very easy do it youeself job. Here is the old post:

http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=124125&Forum=UBB14&Words=motive&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=6months&Main=124125&Search=true#Post124125

 

[Jack B]

Most mail order houses such as Eastwood (800-345-1178) offer the "Mity Vac". It really is a slick tool and inexpensive. As mentioned get a couple of 3/16" flair, male plugs to close off areas of your system during your project. when complete just bleed the closest fitting and work your way out to the furthest.

 

[95Viper]

I bought the Motive and the Miller tool. You'll need to call 800-801-5420 for the tool. I also bought parts to make the tool a quick release. This way you can easily and safely switch caps for different cars. Don't mess around and get fluid squirting all over the place..it eats paint.

I just got my VCA membership last week. I think my profile on this website has to be changed to post pics. I have pics of the Motive setup with tool and quick release to post.

 

[Bill Pemberton Woodhouse]

Give Nancy Shanno a call ( our Viper Accessory Mgr. ) and get a brake tool also. You may not need it now, but you will probably be changing pads at a
later date. We sell these at virtually our cost basis, as it is a necessary tool -- $30 I believe. Her number is 1-800-889-1893.

PS - Listen to Janni, she is the best brake bleeder in the entire Viper Nation---- you go girl!!!

 

[Ron]

Jack;

I too had the Mity Vac but found that the vacuum level and duration was insufficient to create the fliud velocity to fully purge the lines of all trapped air. Fine for fluid replacement, but not enough for air removal.

I'd suggest following the Mity Vac process with the wood blocked (see above post) traditional "pump the pedal" method to force the last bit of air out.