Brake Upgrade? Need serious recommendations

[JasonSSG]

I've seen so many posts over the past few years Im not sure where to start. I have a bone stock '09 SRT Coupe. Im going to need new pads soon. I track my car 50% of the miles I put on it (dont get to much street use anymore with work schedule), I definately want to put steel braided lines on it when I replace the pads. Any recommendations on a brake kit and also what pads would best suit me. Race brake fluid also?

Thanks

 

[TRACKDAY]

I tend to use Stoptech for all my brake part needs. I use Stoptech on my 2009 ACR and have never had any issues during track use.

Brake Fluid - Stoptech Racing Brake Fluid 660
Brake Lines - Stoptech Steel Braided Brake Lines (Note - after installation, be sure to inspect the front lines to ensure they don't bind or make contact with the tires while the steering wheel is at or near full lock)
Brake Pads - Stoptech Street Performance Pads, 309 prefix series (Suitable for track & street). They also make "track use only" pads, depending on what you're looking for.
Rotors - Stoptech Aerorotors

Hope this helped.

 

[Allan]

I have tried a few different combinations and have settled on Mintex front/Brakeman#4 rear for pads.
Stoptech aero-rotors, and steel braided lines are a must for a track car.

For the gen III and later, you don't need any kind of 'brake kit', just upgrade the components.
The stock calipers are fine.

 

[gb66gth]

Motul RBF 600 Fluid
Stoptech Steel braided lines (got mine from Jon B. at Parts Rack)
Pads Mintex front/ Brakeman 3 in rear (ask for the old formulation, as the new one dusts unmercifully)
I use stock rotors, here is my reasoning. The two-piece Stop-Tech are $1200 for the front set and you will chew thru them pretty quickly at the track with the mintex pads and they are expensive to replace the discs, whereas a new set of front stock type rotors is $275-. Yes, I know the Stop-Techs are 12lbs lighter, but in reality, I doubt you are actually racing your Viper door-to-door for money, or even a trophy.
Just me two cents.

 

[Viper X]

Depends on how serious you are.

The ACRX set up is pretty good. Brembo rotors, larger pads, Motul RBF or equivalent and stainless lines. You will want to run at least 3" air ducts to the front brakes for sure if you are braking aggressviely or you'll boil your fluid and wear your pads and rotors much more quickly.

Dan

 

[Nsane1]

Agree with all here. Stop tech lines, race pads, brake ducts, and motul are what I run when I track aggressively. I agree on the stock rotors. I have done both ST and stock, and I can't see the price difference if you do the rest.

If you want to go more *********, you can go with a bigger brake setup, but thats when we start talking about real money...

I would also not recommend drilled rotors, I have seen SO many cracked drilled rotors on race days that its not worth the risk. Slotting is fine (but some will tell you it increases wear). I don't go in for fancy crap, I just like to keep the shiny side up and have fun.

 

[Viper X]

Agree with Greg on the drilled rotors. Have seen many of them crack - not pretty.

Hard to beat the Brembo rotors. They seem to last about twice as long as the Stoptechs on the track.....but they cost about twice as much.

 

[REDSLED]

Stick with Viper X's advice. Your calipers are plenty adequate, might switch to 2 pc rotors (slotted not cross drilled), proper brake fluid, race pads and ducting for the hot days. Do not buy cheap rotors from ebay! You get what you pay for. Also, decent rubber is necessary. It makes no sense to upgrade your brakes and have old tires. Brakes need tire grip to slow the car.

 

[JasonSSG]

Motul RBF 600 Fluid
Stoptech Steel braided lines (got mine from Jon B. at Parts Rack)
Pads Mintex front/ Brakeman 3 in rear (ask for the old formulation, as the new one dusts unmercifully)
I use stock rotors, here is my reasoning. The two-piece Stop-Tech are $1200 for the front set and you will chew thru them pretty quickly at the track with the mintex pads and they are expensive to replace the discs, whereas a new set of front stock type rotors is $275-. Yes, I know the Stop-Techs are 12lbs lighter, but in reality, I doubt you are actually racing your Viper door-to-door for money, or even a trophy.
Just me two cents.

Could you tell me where you are getting the stock type rotors from? After thinking it probably is the best solution.

 

[Viper X]

Could you tell me where you are getting the stock type rotors from? After thinking it probably is the best solution.

You can get stock rotors from your local dealer, though you might get a better price from Jon B at Parts Rack. Stock rotors work "OK" for their price. Not sure where you live, but shipping OE rotors very far (heavy) can get spendy, so you may end up back at your local dealer.

Tried the Mintex pads (and many others) and they will chew on rotors. There are brake pads that stop better and don't chew up rotors. Most of the Raybestos pads (some NASCAR guys use these) work better and you can get progressively more track oriented pads as your driving improves. They are available widel and resonably priced. I get mine from Porterfield Brakes in Costa Mesa, CA.

Good luck,

Dan

 

[CWhiteRun]

The Mintex Extreme are some of the best around. Very highly rated by those that have used them.

 

[Twin Turbo E85]

http://www.movitbrakesusa.com/

 

[JasonSSG]

Well I got the Stoptech Steel Braided lines and rotors along with better pads. Started replacing everything tonight and realized that when I switch out the fluid I wont have enough. Does anyone have any installation recommendations for the brake lines that will ease and minimize brake fluid loss?

 

[Kma4444]

Any time you open any of the hydraulic systems and want to minimize fluid loss push the pedal down some and find a way to hold it in that position. You can buy a pedal depressor which are handy but a piece of wood the right length braced between the seat and pedal works just fine.

By pushing the pedal down some, you close the compensating port in the master cylinder and they will not drain at all. Should be able to swap the lines and lose only the fluid contained therein.