Cam bolt recall experience

[grayman]

Just had 04 cam bolt recall completed. Per advice on the board, had tech change oil/filter (per recall), coolant, all applicable gaskets new (no reuse) and double check all bolts within his grasp while in the recall area.

1 Cam bolt was only torqued to approximately 50% of specified torque. More importantly, the crankshaft pulley bolt keeping the pulley from flying off was only finger tight! ***. Anyway, all were loctited and torqued as required. Tech said it was a few hour job to access everything and complete and not that huge of a job, but definitely worth doing unless your prepared to be snakeless for a couple months waiting for your rebuild.

 

[1TONY1]

More importantly, the crankshaft pulley bolt keeping the pulley from flying off was only finger tight! ***.

Same here !!

 

[Skip White]

Read this post, went out to check my crank pully bolt, it was beond finger loose! I used a little bit of lock tight, and snugged it down with about 75 lbs of torgue. Any one know what the torgue specs call for on this? The bolt size is 13/16 if memory serves me correct.


I wonder just how easy at that point, for the harmonic balancer to come off.

Skip

 

[grayman]

As I understand it, the crank pulley is attached to the harmonic balancer with the bolt in question. The harmonic balancer is pressed onto the crank with like 250 lb-ft of torque at factory. I had an 00 GTS that had the balancer "wallow" off the crank, damaging the crank and requiring an Arrow rebuild. I think if the crank pulley came off by itself it would just throw off the belt and the operation of all accessories. The crank pulley is keyed onto the balancer shaft and the bolt just holds it from flying off. But I think if the pulley did come off, there might be a potential for damage if the keyway between the pulley and shaft was damaged. Anyone chime in to clear me up here.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Read this post, went out to check my crank pully bolt, it was beond finger loose! I used a little bit of lock tight, and snugged it down with about 75 lbs of torgue. Any one know what the torgue specs call for on this? The bolt size is 13/16 if memory serves me correct.


I wonder just how easy at that point, for the harmonic balancer to come off.

Skip

SKIP (and all you guys who have had loose harmonic balancer bolts)- I recomend having your tech pull the balancer off and inspect the crank before assuming "all is well" if you have or had a loose bolt. definatly worth the peice of mind that the damn thing isnt going to work its way loose again. Simple job, just remove the belt, pulley, and pull off the balancer with a puller...then reinstall.

Correct torque for the harmonic balancer bolt on Gen-3 cars is 130 ft/lbs. I am not sure if it is supposed to be loctited or not upon reassembly... didnt pay attention passed the torque when I read the document.

 

[GR8_ASP]

I just checked my service manual. It indicates 250 ft-lbs for a Gen III. The crankshaft pulley is 200 in-lbs.

Can you tighten the damper (balancer) without removing anything?

 

[Viper Specialty]

VIPER SRT- PLEASE CHECK THAT AGAIN! I dont want anyone to see that and snap off the bolt! If your manual states that, it is WRONG. I have a 2004 manual in my hands, and it says 130 ft/lbs. As well, the 04-006 "recall" states 130 ft lbs.

It just wouldnt make sense- the damper bolt on Gen-2's is about 1-1/4", and IS 250 ft/lb's, the damper bolt on gen-3's is considerably smaller at only 13/16" (head size of course... dont know the thread sizes off the top of my head, but it will follow the same pattern) In a nutshell, you would never see a 6-Pt. 13/16 bolt with a 250 ft/lbs Tq spec, it is not large enough to handle the Tq without being either a 12 Pt. design, or a different material. Check your bolt size... unless they had an EARLY run of gen-2 sized damper bolts or something... it is a typo.

You may want to update your manual if it says that... it is not uncommon for first year manuals to have typos, as much of the material is carry-over from the 2002 manual. I have still found mistakes in the 2004 manual, but that is not one of them anymore.

PS- yes you can tighten the bolt without removing anything. on a lift is easiest, or simply use a 25-250 Ft-Lbs Tq wrench and a normal 1/2" drive 13/16" socket. position the Tq wrench between the passenger fender and the airbox. put car in 4th and make sure parking brake is set. Be careful not to grab anything other than the frame/cross member/inner tire to get leverage while tightening... would make for a bad day if you yanked the fender off the car!!! LOL

 

[GR8_ASP]

You could be correct. My manual clearly shows 250 ft-lbs. But it is an early manual. Of course mistakes can happen. But for us 2003 owners the 2003 manual is the correct manual to use. Anyone have a newer printing of the 2003 manual to check it out?

Gotta go and check the torque as I am going to a track day Thursday.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Okay, just got back from a quick evaluation.

First, my 2003 has a 1 1/4 inch flat to flat headed bolt. So there is a difference (versus the 13/16 inch Daniel indicated above).

Second, and possibly more important, it had less than 50 ft-lb of breakaway torque (tightening direction). That is quite low no matter which torque spec is correct.

Third, can we get a definitive statement on the torque specification. My 2003 manual states 250 ft-lbs and Daniel's 2004 states 130 ft-lbs. What is correct?

Due to the question I only tightened it to 130 ft-lbs. Plus I do not have a torque wrench capable of 250

 

[ViperRay]

What's up with all these loose bolts!!!
Every time I come to this site now I find myself going out to the garage to check more bolts on these friggin' cars.
My wife wants to know why the f**k I keep going out to the garage!

 

[Viper Specialty]

Viper SRT- looks like there may have actually been a run of early 1-1/4" bolts! if thats the case, it appears your manual is correct... as strange as it is. anyone else out there with a later 2003 that can check this...? interesting to see if it is a change from 2003-2004, or if it is a mid-year 2003 change.

Kinda weird though... as the gen-2 cars had some problems with the damper bolts being/coming loose... and their solution was to go with a smaller bolt...!?!?

I actually just pulled mine off... I had a full Tq of 130 Ft/lbs on mine, so that is some good news! (MDH 0206**)
It appears that SOME engineeing may have gone into this new bolt... the bolt is long and skinnier in the center, such bolts are used for their "spring" effect, which keeps things from comming loose even under vibration. LOL...either that or the other end of the spectrum, idiotic move with it coincidentally looking like they had a clue what they were doing!

Only way to know for sure is to measure the thread size, not the bolt size, compared to a Gen-2. if the bolt itself is the size of a gen-2 all the way, then 250 it is. if it is the same side threads as the 13/16's bolt, then it is simply a bigger head on the same threads.

Viper SRT- when you get a chance, pull your damper bolt out and measure the diameter of the threads on it. I will do the same in a few minutes and post the results. lets figure this out...

 

[fred]

Dodge should not be having these issues with "torque" or improper torque. Makes you wonder what else is going on with the car. Does not help its reputation.

 

[Viper Specialty]

FRED- Agreed 100%.

Viper SRT- My Damper bolt is 9/16" Major Diameter on the threaded section. Yours...?

 

[GR8_ASP]

Confirmed. The 2003 SRT damper bolt is the same as the Gen II (250 ft-lb spec as well). 2004 is new and common with the 5.7L HEMI. Not sure of the sizes.

This really lets me know that having the correct year service manual is very important.