Can Chuck Tator, JonB, anybody help me about my front facia!?

Sniper

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I have had 3 front facias sent to my body shop including the one on the car now and all of them are warped, the last two worse than the one currently on the car. Is there any unwarped front facias out there for a Gen I? My insurance is paying for it but can't get a straight facia. Here's a pic of the one on my car now. You can see where it's warped where the air goes into the radiator on the bottom two holes.
13mvc-018s-med.jpg
 

JonB

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Carve some styrofoam blocks out of kid's pool floats. Carve them to fit flush with the DESIRED shape of the inside facia 'wedge'.

Cement / bond them into place
 
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Thanks, everyone!

But isn't there anyway to get a straight facia? For Dodge to put out all warped facias doesn't make any sense to me. The original facias on the cars were all ok, but you now can't buy a decent facia?! I'm lost.
 

dansauto

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It because they are sitting around and not supported. The climate changes and the unsupported pcs become deformed. Happens to Camero and Firebird front ends as well. Chuck is absolutly correct, warm it up and will will go back to shape. I us a paint stick to hold it in shape then let it cool (you should to this prior to painting)
 

Vip-RT10

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OK...i fixed this on my own...I have pics, but they are packed away in boxes going to Italy.

You obviously need to remove the front fascia. Do you want to fix the cross-hairs or the bottom? I would do both If I were you since you got it all down.

You need to buy enough epoxy (the one that comes in toothpaste tubes and the 2 parts need to be mixed) to have about half a Brandy glassfull.

Next, you know those pool float snake things made of foam that really old people use in the pool? Go to Walmart and they should have a matterss in this foam material. Buy it.

With a filet knife and a steady hand, cut one rail off the floating matterss. With the fascia off and on the ground on a towel or something similar, see what thickness you would like the center cross hairs to be from the inside. I chose a thickness of about 3/4 of an inch because it didn't look think from the exterior.

Now cut that matterss rail so it fits nicely inside the cross hair with barely any force. Make sure that the pieces are flush with the rear of the fascia so it is not an eye soar. I cut mine so it made 2 halves.

Now I went to the local aluminium recycling place and found a bar of aluminium about 3 feet in length and 5 mm thick. The bar was straight, so now you need to shape it to the shape of a boomerang or close to what you feel is necessary to straighten the bottom part. You need a hammer and beat on the aluminium bar on the thin part or knife edge. Use an anvil when doing this, it is easier. Since it is aluminium, it won't be that hard to do. When you are done, the pice should be boomerang shaped and if you hold it straight out infront of you, with the ends facing away and the center facing you, the boomerang should be also curved down to compensate for the fascia pulling up.

Once shaped to the desired shape that fits for you and the mattress pieces are ready, you will need a 4 pieces of wood that will fit inside the cross hairs and many clamps to keep a straight surface. I used the ones that are spring loaded and open with one hand and close by themselves.

Mix the epoxy and let it dry for a minute so it won't be that runny.

Carefully apply the epoxy on the inside of the lower part of the crosshairs and the upper part of one of the foam pieces. Insert carefully and press lightly until both sides of the crosshairs touch the mattress piece. If this is the result desidered put a piece of wood as a platform above and below the center crosshairs and apply the clamps. Repeate for the other side.

Make sure to wipe off the epoxy that may be going onto the painted surfaces immediately after securing the clamps.

Now apply epoxy to the aluminium piece that is now similar to a boomerang and a frown and secure with clamps. Let it dry for a few hours and reapply some epoxy along the edges so it runs down evenly. Let dry overnight.

When completely dry, remove all the pieces of wood and clamps. Reinstall the bumper with new push-in plastic rivets (11 I think). And it should be OK. The whole process of removing the front took me .5 hrs and the crafting of the materials took me 2 hours since I took my time and did it properly. It should take a whole day with drying time.

I did this and it has held beautifully for 1.5 years so far, even with the heat. Ask Chuck, he saw my car b4 and after. Sorry it is so long, but it will be worth the effort. E-mail me with any questions.
 
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Thanks for your responses!

But should I have to go through all that trouble for a front facia?

I was told by my Progressive rep., who was talking to someone high up from Chrysler while I was sitting in the body shop office with her, that he said Chrysler had just made 150 new facias and would ship one to my body shop. Well, this was the third facia to arrive and it was worse than the one in the pic. So, this can't be from sitting around if it was just made.

Doesn't anyone have a brand new facia that isn't warped at all? I could get Progressive to buy it from someone else other than waiting on Chrysler to send a good one.

And JonB, I've been waiting on this facia for months now, I can't even put on my Autoform front splitter till this is solved/fixed.

VipRT/10-thanks for the long post! I may have to resort to this.
 

Vip-RT10

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I think that the bottom part is a design flaw since the new center crosshairs have a foam insert piece in it. Go feel other Vipers and see. I hope they fix it...because they certantly aren't helping me with my shifted piston liners.
 
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