Can I check my own error codes?

[agentf1]

As the title says, Can I check my own error codes without a machine? On the vette I am able to pull them up on the dic with just a combination of button pushes. Does the Viper have something like this or do I have to pick up something to plug into the computer? If the latter how much are they and who sells a good one? Are they worth owning if you still have a warranty etc...

 

[Matt M PA]

Frank..I put Scan Gauge IIs in both my Fords. They will read error codes, and they're reasonable. Plugs into the OBDII port. I installed over the rear view mirror in both cases with a mount sold by MGT Motorsports. Here's how it looks in the Cobra.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[ACELLR8]

agentf1,

If I am correct it looks like you have a Gen I. If this is indeed the case you do not need an OBD scan tool. You can simply do it by cycling the ignition key on and off 3 times, then on the third time count the flashes of the check engine code. No matter what you will get a 55 code meaning this is the last code or there are no more codes.

Here is the procedure and codes from the service manual.

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

 

[klamathpro]

No, you have a GenII so you need a code reader. Go to Autozone for a free code check.

 

[ACELLR8]

My bad I thought it was a Gen I.

On the Gen II, no way to check it without a OBD 2 code reader. Pick one up on Ebay or at Harbor Freight for around $40 or $50, you can get the codes, clear the codes, plus it will tell you what the codes mean.

 

[Asp Man]

My bad I thought it was a Gen I.

On the Gen II, no way to check it without a OBD 2 code reader. Pick one up on Ebay or at Harbor Freight for around $40 or $50, you can get the codes, clear the codes, plus it will tell you what the codes mean.

Not true. Key cycle three times, will flash codes with the check engine lamp.

 

[agentf1]

Not true. Key cycle three times, will flash codes with the check engine lamp.

I am trying to figure out which switch the alarm is not seeing as set in an effort to find out why my alarm is not arming. Is this something that would be stored in a code? Or do I need to put it on a BDR for this?

 

[Asp Man]

I don't think so as the alarm is separate from the PCM (please, correct me if I'm wrong) having it's own "computer" Not sure how you'd hook up to that.
You could at least elliminate some of the switches by getting out your multimeter and checking continuity on them> ie: when the hatch is down, is the switch on the strut making contact? I had this problem early on in ownership as the dealer had replaced the hatch struts as part of the "deal", they had not tightened the switch on the strut so over time it moved enough that the switch wouldn't close, causing the alarm to not be able to set. Check the one under the hood the same way, though it's easier to do as you can just push down on the little plunger. The doors may be the culprit, knowing what we all know about the wiring harness there. But I'd start with the easy stuff and go from there.

Hope this helps.

 

[agentf1]

I don't think so as the alarm is separate from the PCM (please, correct me if I'm wrong) having it's own "computer" Not sure how you'd hook up to that.
You could at least elliminate some of the switches by getting out your multimeter and checking continuity on them> ie: when the hatch is down, is the switch on the strut making contact? I had this problem early on in ownership as the dealer had replaced the hatch struts as part of the "deal", they had not tightened the switch on the strut so over time it moved enough that the switch wouldn't close, causing the alarm to not be able to set. Check the one under the hood the same way, though it's easier to do as you can just push down on the little plunger. The doors may be the culprit, knowing what we all know about the wiring harness there. But I'd start with the easy stuff and go from there.

Hope this helps.

Already checked/reset the hood and hatch. Assuming it is a door switch or Entry Control Module. The car only has 1600 miles so I would not think it would have the wire issue yet but you never know.

 

[DaytonaViper]

Double check the hatch switch and make sure you don't have a pinched wire. My 96 GTS had this problem. The insulted wire had some how moved half way up the plastic shell encasing the switch.

 

[got one]

Very good info!!!! Thanks

agentf1,

If I am correct it looks like you have a Gen I. If this is indeed the case you do not need an OBD scan tool. You can simply do it by cycling the ignition key on and off 3 times, then on the third time count the flashes of the check engine code. No matter what you will get a 55 code meaning this is the last code or there are no more codes.

Here is the procedure and codes from the service manual.

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

 

[All Blue ACR]

Do the codes clear when the battery is disconnected?

 

[JiPi]

Yes, they do.
But it is easier to unplug the PCM for about 15-30 min.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Need to clarify some things:

Can you spell out for us the year of your Viper??

Do you have a check engine light on?? (...and, NO, an OBD II generic scan tool will not read/diagnose alarm problems)

To check status of switches on a Viper WITH A SCAN TOOL, one NEEDS a DRB III...as Snap-On's Advantage or Modis tools that both work on many Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep products etc. DO NOT WORK on Vipers since Snap-ON elected NOT to pay the extra money to Dodge for such a low volume car that a Viper indeed is (per personal telephone communcation with Snap-On Tech folks). This I found out when I started to buy said tools from "Snappy" only to find out that the "keys" provided that worked well on our Jeep could not even tell that some years of our Vipers were even VIPERS...noting that the Snap-On tools readout said that that one Viper was a "Stratus" .

A DRB III is a wonderful tool for a Viper...makes life much easier...dealer should have several if you cannot track problem on your own.

I hope that it is something simple...please let us know what you find.