Car bogging down

[Chemeng]

Have an issue with the car bogging down. It's a 2006 coupe with high flow cats and headers. I put a MGW shifter on it and a skip shift eliminator, got new tires yesterday. The issue - runs great when I first start it, but if I stop for a few minutes and cut it off it will bog down or even cut out after restarting. It doesn't die completely, but feels almost like a backfire before it catches and runs good. It usually happens after I stop for gas and push it coming out of the station (around 2400 rpm's). Anyone else have this problem? I didn't notice it before I did the skip shift eliminator, but I only had the car a couple weeks before the install and it was colder.

A couple of times it will cut out several times in a row causing the car to **** pretty bad. Does fine if I keep the rpm's down, but what's the fun in that?

Thanks for any advice. Mike

 

[bluesrt]

any codes?

 

[Chemeng]

No check engine lights or anything abnormal showing on dash readout. Would there be a code in the memory that didn't trigger the CEL?

 

[car-hor]

I've heard several people say they've had issues with the stock cats (there's 4) clogging/melting. I haven't had this issue but I suspect it would yield the symptoms that you're experiencing. My 2 cents......

Michael

 

[cash84]

I've had a bogging issues about an year and half ago when it was mostly stock with exhaust intake and tune. Turns out that when I put new plugs and wires in, it went away. I used the new AB wires and the stock champion plugs. How many miles on the car?

 

[cash84]

I've heard several people say they've had issues with the stock cats (there's 4) clogging/melting. I haven't had this issue but I suspect it would yield the symptoms that you're experiencing. My 2 cents......

Michael

I've had that happen! It was worst than bogging! It acts like the engine has no power at all. Glad it got fix under warranty but like a month afterwards I got rid of it by just putting mopar race exhaust. Now I don't have to worry lol

 

[Steve-Indy]

Chemeng, assuming that you have a GOOD battery and connections to same...and, that you note no difference in exhaust pressure between the right and left exhaust exits at idle, and moderate RPM (say 2500-3000) with engine cold, then hot...I would skip directly to a visit with a Viper Tech and check your car with a DRB III and possibly/probably a drive while connected to a StarMOBILE/laptop for REAL diagnostic info. Otherwise, it may be a long road of spectulation, guesses, and parts-swapping. I do wonder about O2 sensors and switch from closed to open loop. Look for stored codes, voltage responses, etc. Just a thought or two.

 

[Chemeng]

Thanks guys. Hope its not the Cats, they were replaced with hi-flow ones just before I got the car. Battery is a newer AutoZone, the terminal was really corroded but I've replaced it and cleaned them up. Finding a Viper tech may be tricky, don't think there is one in Louisville anymore. Funny it only does it after you shut it down and restart. On the original start and running it is perfect. Let it sit for a few minutes and the trouble starts. After 3-4 minutes of running it goes away and I never have it again. Intermittent problems are always the worst.