Changed oil in transmission and diff.

[jjrho]

hi all, i have 2500 miles on my '14 TA…. would like to do the trans and diff…. what is the amount of oil i need to get for tranny and diff ? is there a filter for tranny ?
eng. oil i've done but didn't know trans/diff. was that critical until reading this thread…. just need to know how much to order of each from amsoil…. help, tnx

jR, redlands,CA
'14 TA #66

 

[Viper X]

hi all, i have 2500 miles on my '14 TA…. would like to do the trans and diff…. what is the amount of oil i need to get for tranny and diff ? is there a filter for tranny ?
eng. oil i've done but didn't know trans/diff. was that critical until reading this thread…. just need to know how much to order of each from amsoil…. help, tnx

jR, redlands,CA
'14 TA #66

You could likely find the exact figures on line. I buy 4 quarts for my trans and it seems to use a bit less than that. For the diff, I buy 2 quarts and it seems to take about 1.5 or a bit more.

Check this link: https://www.vipermagazine.com/viper-differential-lubrication-service/

Dan

 

[subtle]

There is quite a bit of willfully ignorant misinformation going around in this thread. It's to be expected though. Not many people care to spend any of their spare time researching oil or becoming a tribologist.

For those of you that have an interest in this subject I highly encourage you to spend some time over on the Oil forums: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary

Ok, so you buy a $100,000.00 car and you are not willing to spend a few more dollars on basically the best oil you can put in it? You save about $60.00 on an oil change. Sounds like it's minivan time. Sorry man, but I just can't believe you would skimp on such a great vehicle. Mobil 1 is overrated - it simply isn't as good as you think.

Ironically enough I'm actually saving $60 by putting the best oil you can put in it.

Dave is right on that. Mobil 1 is OK but over rated, but if you can get much better, get it. Amsoil is worth the money, check it out.

Some grades of Mobil 1 are indeed overrated and shear out of grade quite easily. Their 5W30 and 10W30 are two grades that come to mind that I would personally never run in any of my vehicles.

Their 0W40 however is not one of their offerings that can be considered overrated. It's 60-65% PAO and has shown in multiple VOA and UOA to literally be the one of the absolute best oils currently available on the market, especially when you factor in the price. I would be running Redline 0W40 right now if Mobil's current 0W40 wasn't as good as it is.

Some of the Mobil 1 oils are overrated, but the 0w40 European formula isn't one of them. ****** oil analyses (at least the ones I've seen) suggest it is a very good oil.

Precisely this.

The cult comes from all testing shows its the best, but if you want to save a few bucks get the Mobil 1, if you are on a tight budget it will work.

It has nothing to do with being on a tight budget. Amsoil has never shown to be the best in anything.

I have a feeling you could acquire a lot of interesting knowledge about both Amsoil and Mobil 1 from the discussion in this recent thread: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3770258/1

Ok you're not going to use Amsoil -fair enough. As far as testing goes, it doesn't matter who does it as the results and testing process are displayed for all to see so if anyone has a problem with it they will react and dispute it. Amsoil can't illustrate false claims against other brands or they will be sued. If Esso wants to dispute Amsoil's claims, they could easily perform the same tests with the Amsoil, in the same exacting manner and prove them wrong - this has NEVER happened - and we all know if Esso, or Pennzoil or whoever had ever found anything to dispute they would have. So we accept the tests at face value. Esso, Pennzoil etc make great products, however, Amsoil is at the top of the food chain as far as high performance lubricants. It costs a little more - who cares! I'm not skimping on my cars to save a couple bucks on oil; after all, you are the only person who is going to be stuck in the middle of nowhere when your C7 Z06 breaks down. oops, did I say that out loud?! lol.

Since when has Amsoil been at the top of the food chain for high performance lubricants? (rhetorical)

If Amsoil truly had some magic in their chemistry or something that Esso actually cared about why wouldn't they just buy them out? Amsoil's net worth is less than Esso's pocket change.

Do you realize Amsoil actually purchases a lot of their base stocks from Esso to begin with?

No one is claiming Amsoil doesn't sell a quality product, in fact they do. It's just not even close to being worth the markup over other options on the market though.

 

[Dave1968]

In reading your above forum ; billy bobs oil discussion; I see two things - It's all about price and base oils, however, you must know that the base stock is like the flour in a cake mix, it is only a very small part of the finished product. It's not the base stock that gets used up over time, but the additives that make up the rest of the mix. The better the additives, the longer the oil can perform it's duties. The better the additives, the better it can perform it's duties. It's the high quality and ratio of these additives to one another that is such a guarded secret between companies. You get what you pay for - period. That is why companies can offer different quality versions of the same grade of oil - they make the additive package progressively better so it does a better and longer job at protecting your engine. If you lose full film protection for just a second, you create a "sore" spot that will eventually lead to a failure. It is this factor that makes it necessary to put a high quality oil in our Vipers, and for that matter, any vehicle that is subjected to let's call it "severe duty" applications. Your daily driver minivan doesn't need it, but when your running red line lots, or tracking the car or pushing it hard, it's my opinion you should use the best possible oil. If I pay another $20 or $30 or $80 for my oil, oh well. This is a $100,000.00 car, I could care less if I spend $500 or $600 or $1000.00 at a shop per season for my servicing. This is not about using Amsoil vs Mobil 1 or Joe's discount oil, it's about not letting price direct your choices and putting "OK" oil in your baby.

 

[subtle]

In reading your above forum ; billy bobs oil discussion; I see two things - It's all about price and base oils, however, you must know that the base stock is like the flour in a cake mix, it is only a very small part of the finished product. It's not the base stock that gets used up over time, but the additives that make up the rest of the mix. The better the additives, the longer the oil can perform it's duties. The better the additives, the better it can perform it's duties. It's the high quality and ratio of these additives to one another that is such a guarded secret between companies. You get what you pay for - period. That is why companies can offer different quality versions of the same grade of oil - they make the additive package progressively better so it does a better and longer job at protecting your engine. If you lose full film protection for just a second, you create a "sore" spot that will eventually lead to a failure. It is this factor that makes it necessary to put a high quality oil in our Vipers, and for that matter, any vehicle that is subjected to let's call it "severe duty" applications. Your daily driver minivan doesn't need it, but when your running red line lots, or tracking the car or pushing it hard, it's my opinion you should use the best possible oil. If I pay another $20 or $30 or $80 for my oil, oh well. This is a $100,000.00 car, I could care less if I spend $500 or $600 or $1000.00 at a shop per season for my servicing. This is not about using Amsoil vs Mobil 1 or Joe's discount oil, it's about not letting price direct your choices and putting "OK" oil in your baby.

First off, you can call it billy bobs but that is far and away the most respected website for oil discussion/information on the interwebs.

Second, sure the base stock works in conjunction with the additives but it certainly isn't "a very small part of the finished product". Just as with the flour in your cake example it's quite obviously "the majority" of the finished product. If the M1 0W40 is currently 60-65% PAO then how do you come to the conclusion that that quantifies as "a very small part". Exaggeration never really helps anyone try to get their point across.

Your last sentence really makes zero sense to me. If it's all about not letting price dictate your choices then why are you so hung up on believing Amsoil is superior to Mobil 1? Many assume, in almost every industry that exists, that a higher price automatically implies higher quality. That is clearly not the case here so I'm puzzled as to why you would choose Amsoil over the M1? What about it makes you think it's a superior product and what exactly is it about the M1 that would have you believe it's an inferior product? What makes you label M1 0W40 as an "OK" oil?

You're also really hung up on this additives thing. Additives certainly help complete an oil and help it perform as expected but additives do not deplete over time. The oil itself depletes due to age, water absorption, combustion byproducts, soot, etc. not because the additives wore out.

If Amsoil's 0W40 was actually as good as you believe it to be then why doesn't Amsoil have it qualified with the same amount of certs that apply to M1 0W40?

This is from Amsoil's webpage for their 0W40:

0W-40 (AZF): API SN, SM…; Chrysler MS-12633, MS-10725, MS-10850; Nissan GT-R®

This is from Mobil 1's webpage for their 0W40:

Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of:

API SN, SM, SL, SJ
ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4
Nissan GT-R

Mobil 1 0W-40 has the following builder approvals:

MB-Approval 229.3
MB-Approval 229.5
BMW LONGLIFE OIL 01
VW 502 00/505 00
PORSCHE A40

According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 0W40 is of the following quality:

API CF
VW 503 01
SAAB
OPEL Long Life Service Fill GM-LL-A-025
OPEL Diesel Service Fill GM-LL-B-025
FIAT 9.55535 - M2
FIAT 9.55535 - N2
FIAT 9.55535 - Z2

Lastly, it's your money and you're free to dispose of it as you choose. We are definitely in agreement that one should use the best possible oil for the job, hence why I chose M1 0W40.

 

[Dave1968]

I am not cutting down your M1, if you like it better - use it. Your API no.s are S = spark motivated, N = latest emmisions standard. M L and J are older standards. All oils have to have the applicable API to be for your vehicle. Some vehicles, older ones, only need M, or even J - it depends on the emmision standards at the date of manufacture. Next, "OK" oil was not a direct reference to your M1, it refernced all "OK" oils whatever they are. Next, you are 100% wrong about the additives. They ARE what gets used up during normal operation of any engine, the base stock remains basically constant. Additives for lubricity, anti - corrosion, anti - foaming, additives to keep impurities from globulating together and forming bigger chunks, man the list is almost endless. They get used up over time and must be replenished - that is the primary reason why you do oil changes. Dirty oil isn't necessary bad, look at diesels. You can do an oil change in a diesel and the new oil looks as black as the old - the difference is the additives have been replenished and the impurities that have accumulated are gone. Your quality codes are mearly applications where the oil is acceptable for use - not how good it is. Mobil 1 is the most awesomist oil in the whole wide world!!! I stick with Amsoil --Yah Baby!!

 

[subtle]

Additives do not deplete and/or wear out during the lifespan of an oil change nor does the base stock wear out either. Oil eventually needs changing due to many factors, but the majority of the time it's due to ones I listed above.

Oil looking dark and/or dirty is actually a great thing. It means the oil is doing its job and holding anything it needs to, that didn't get picked up by the filter, in suspension so it gets carried out during the oil change. That's probably one of the biggest misnomers out there when it comes to oil. Misinformed people still believe the old wives tales of the 3k mile oil change and that oil looking dirty means it has gone bad and needs changing.

The quality codes are indeed indicative of how good M1 0W40 is. Considering how much more strict the oil standards are in the EU versus the USA, especially when it comes to labeling something as actually being synthetic, meeting these quality codes and being approved by MB, BMW, VW and Porsche is quite huge. The 0W40 offered by Amsoil meets none of those.

 

[Dave1968]

You need to do a little more research.