Changing Oil: Before or After Hibernation?

[Limit]

Hey Guys. Since I finally have a car worthy of partial hibernation, I'm wondering what's better for it. Changing the oil, then storing it, or storing it and changing the oil afterwards. I might be taking it out a little here and there while it's hibernating, and I'll let it run inside the garage every once in awhile too. What would be best? Any help is appreciated. Thanks again.

Mark

 

[Affatica]

I have always thought it was best to change the oil when it comes out of hibernation. Older oil is not going to have any effect on a car that is not running. And new oil in a hibernating car is just getting old.

 

[xlrashn]

Limit,
It is recommended to change it before you store it. Aging of the oil is not of much concern if you are using synthetic as you should. The reason to change, is that used oil has raised acid levels from the contaminates in suspension. This is a result of the oil simply doing it's job. These acid levels could do damage to internal parts on some level while the vehicle sits. Cleaner is better.
As far as starting while storing for the winter, I would not recommend it unless you can get it COMPLETELY up to full operating temps and drive it some to burn off the moisture and condensation. My professional opinion is to service the oil and filter and store it til' next season. Use a good battery tender and let it sit. Less chance for contamination build up from cold weather "storage" starts.
On another note, if the garage you are storing it in is UNheated, park the car on a sheet of plastic to protect from condensation that you will get with temp changes. A heated garage is best, but not always available.
I know there will be some other opinions out there, and this is just mine. I hope it helps you out.

Jim -- ASE Certified Master Technician

 

[pocketAA]

Change the oil before you put it away. Driving it a few times after it is change will not hurt. Once coming out of hibernation, no need to change perfectly good oil again, wait until hibernation time comes around. Full tank of gas, battery tender, place plastic tarp under the car, inflat tires to almost max PSI, put a car cover over it, some mice traps would not hurt. Every 4 weeks or so, put the car in neutral and roll it to a new spot so the tires do not flat spot....this probably will not happen, but I just do it for my own analness. Do not start the car and let it warm up to operating temp and then shut it down..not good for the engine and other parts. Do not drive it unless the salt is off the roads after some good steady rain. If you do take it out, make sure you can drive it for 20 steady miles at operating temp. These are the things I go by, so everything listed is just me. I am a new viper owner of less than 2 years.

 

[agentf1]

Another vote for before you store. Even better try to get it out atleast once a month all year if possible.

 

[JonB]

Dont Store Old, contaminated, impure, corrosion-causing, moisture laden, degraded oil.

In fact, 0-30 or 0-40 oil is the next best thing to a pre-oiler.....almost instant oil pressure on startup....esp important after a LONG hibernation.

I wish I could magically summon up Tom FLOGOR Hayden...He's DA MAN on this topic.
I JUST DID!
Huge array of good data just below your SEARCH key.
SEARCH "Long Term Storage" you will get a lot of info, including Tom's, back to 2001!

 

[Limit]

Thanks a lot for all the help. I thought I remembered that you should do it beforehand, just wanted to confirm before Jack Frost comes knocking.

 

[Dan Aseere]

RT 10 and GTS has the exhaust running thru the side sills. If you idle the car for an extensive time it can cause the sills to blister. No where for the heat to go. Just a thought

 

[slaughterj]

I recommend shipping your car to those of us in climates where hibernation is not a concern, and we will be sure to drive it for you to avoid the need to concern yourself with these matters.

 

[mike & juli]

I recommend shipping your car to those of us in climates where hibernation is not a concern, and we will be sure to drive it for you to avoid the need to concern yourself with these matters.

LOL--Wish we didn't have to worry about hibernation either...but we keep the car on the road (insured) all year...change the oil, wax the car, once rains wash away the salt and it's a decent day out, we run the car for a bit, bring it home, clean it up again....and it sits until next decent day. Gets much too cold here for runs...we have a graded driveway, and we'd slide down into the ditch ! Everybody has listed good advice! ~juli

 

[Affatica]

LOL--Wish we didn't have to worry about hibernation either...but we keep the car on the road (insured) all year...change the oil, wax the car, once rains wash away the salt and it's a decent day out, we run the car for a bit, bring it home, clean it up again....and it sits until next decent day. Gets much too cold here for runs...we have a graded driveway, and we'd slide down into the ditch ! Everybody has listed good advice! ~juli

Same thing here. There are just too many nice days in the winter in CO not to drive it. I tried putting it away for the winter one year; then on a 60 degree day in December, I was passed by a Murc on the freeway. Haven't hibernated the car since.

As long as there is no snow or salt on the road, I'll drive it.

 

[Viper4Christ]

Jesus says... The cleaner the better change it before you store it, you'll be glad you did come spring time.

 

[Kmrumedy]

Change the oil before you put it away. Driving it a few times after it is change will not hurt. Once coming out of hibernation, no need to change perfectly good oil again, wait until hibernation time comes around. Full tank of gas, battery tender, place plastic tarp under the car, inflat tires to almost max PSI, put a car cover over it, some mice traps would not hurt. Every 4 weeks or so, put the car in neutral and roll it to a new spot so the tires do not flat spot....this probably will not happen, but I just do it for my own analness. Do not start the car and let it warm up to operating temp and then shut it down..not good for the engine and other parts. Do not drive it unless the salt is off the roads after some good steady rain. If you do take it out, make sure you can drive it for 20 steady miles at operating temp. These are the things I go by, so everything listed is just me. I am a new viper owner of less than 2 years.

Agreed. I am just about to store my car. The only thing I was going to do in addition was remove the tires and leave the car on stands. Any comments on this? Any issue leaving the car on stands for the winter? ( I wanted to clean up the wells and arms.)

Any advice would be helpful.

 

[Limit]

I've heard leaving it on stands is bad. Hurts something to do with it, no idea what though.

Does everybody here change their oil every 3 months during the summer, even if you don't come close to the 3,000 mile mark?

 

[VIPER GTSR 91]

ALWAYS BEFORE!!

 

[pocketAA]

I heard that if you leave it on stands and remove the tires it might harm the suspension. I would just inflat the tires to max psi and be done with it. I only store mine from about mid December to April, and in that time I make sure to move it so flat spotting does not occur.