How to replace the Gen 1 Clutch Pedal Bushings

[maverickagm]

The problem:
My mechanic told me I needed a new clutch safety switch. I did not. The actual problem is the clutch pedal has some left-and-right wiggle. As you press on the clutch pedal, the pedal arm catches on a bracket. You think it's bottomed out, but it's not. Wiggle it to the right and you can push in further, then the clutch switch is engaged. The first minute of this video shows the problem:

Gen 1 Dodge Viper clutch pedal and shifter repair

Quick video to show what I did to fix dodgy clutch pedal bushes and a loose shifter in my Viper

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The fix:
Replace the clutch pedal shaft bushings. Unfortunately they wear out rather quickly. If you plan on owning your car for awhile, you'll be changing them more than once. The method below creates an access hole to replace them quicker. Even if you manage to get custom bronze bushings, the access hole will make them easier to re-grease.

Items to buy:

2x Clutch Pedal Shaft Bushings. Mopar Part number 2467770 (or 02467770). These are discontinued. They were used on some 60's and 70's Mopars as well. www.brewersperformance.com carries them. Their part number is "CPB770". It is 0.500″ inside diameter, 0.560″ outside diameter. Part number "FD1770" from www.yearone.com might work as well, but I am not certain.

1x Birdcage bushing for the clutch rod to clutch pedal arm. You have a couple of options here. Mopar part number 4643448. Crown Automotive also makes them with the same part number. If you're concerned the plastic pushing might break at the worst possible time, you can swap the birdcage bushing for these two parts:
* 1x Clutch Actuator Bushing. Mopar part number 4446361. Viper Parts Depot SKU OEM-632
* 1x Chrysler Metal Clip (it has multiple uses). Mopar part number 4446361. Viper Parts Depot SKU OEM-633
If you think your Birdcage bushing is in good shape, buy a replacement anyways because it will almost certainly break when you try to remove it.

1x 2" flush mount body plug

Tools:
* Drill
* Small drill bit for pilot hole.
* Flashlight (headlamp)
* 2" hole saw
* Something to deburr your hole. rotary tool, sand paper, file.
* Needle nose pliers
* Flathead screwdriver.
* 10mm wrench
* Socket wrench. 15mm and 10mm sockets.
* A grease that's safe for metal and plastic. I used Super Lube Synthetic Grease.
* Magnet
* Masking tape
* Metric ruler or digital calipers
* Fine tip felt.

Instructions:

1) You probably want to remove the drivers seat. I forget the socket size. Put seat all the way forward and remove two rear bolts. Put the seat all the way back and remove two front bolts. There's not much to it.

2) Open the hood and remove 3 10mm nuts on the washer fluid reservoir and set it aside. I didn't have to disconnect anything. There's plenty of slack.

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3) Place a piece of masking tape under the 2 top studs from the washer fluid reservoir. From the top edge of the tape, measure 11mm down. From the center-point of the top-left stud, measure 40mm to the right (Yes my photo shows 39mm. 40mm is slightly better). This will be the center-point for a 2" hole.

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4) At this point you could drill a small pilot hole at the center-point from step 3. Shine a flashlight into it and find the light from inside of the car to see if you're satisfied with this spot. However, you don't have to take my word for it. To measure yourself, go inside the car and use a (very strong) magnet on the metal side. Align it with the pedal shaft, as if the pedal shaft extended all the way to hit the sidewall. On the outside of the car, use one of the 10mm nuts from the washer reservoir to locate the magnet. drill a pilot hole, leave the drill bit in the hole, find it from inside of the car, and readjust. The idea is to locate the center-point of the pedal shaft from outside the car. Decide on a hole size, then drill a new pilot hole for the center of your hole saw. The hole should allow you to fully remove the pedal shaft, and help you reach the birdcage clip.

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5) With your hole-saw pilot hole decided and drilled, start cutting with a hole saw. I wore out a wood-cutting hole saw doing this. I cut partway, then with the imprint already made, I used a very small drill bit to drill holes all around the circle, then enlarged each hole with a slightly larger drill bit, then finished off with the hole saw again. Finally, use a tool to deburr your edge. Do a good job of deburring the edge.

5) Using your new access hole, remove the E-clip with needle nose pliers and an flathead screwdriver. Next remove the washer behind the E-clip. If you've positioned your hole well, you should be able to use needle nose pliers to remove (break) the birdcage clip attaching the clutch rod to the pedal arm.

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6) Wiggle and pull out the clutch pedal from inside the car.

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[maverickagm]

7) Replace the two Pedal shaft bushings. Grease them up.

8) If you're using a replacement birdcage bushing, grease it up. Don't put it on the pedal arm!! The birdcage clip must first be inserted into the hole in the clutch rod BEFORE being attached to the pedal arm. If you try to put the birdcage clip on the pedal arm first, the clip wont fit into the clutch rod hole since the plastic can no longer bend inwards. If you're using the metal clip and clutch actuator bushing, this doesn't matter. However, with the pedal out of the car, dry fit the chrysler metal clip. It might need some tweaking to make sure it goes on easy enough when you have the clutch pedal reinstalled.

9) Reinstall the pedal into the car.

10) Reinstall washer

11) This is where you would reinstall the E-Clip. However, I no longer had space to fit the E-clip. The washer covered the recess spot on the pedal shaft. I'm not sure why. Grab and 10mm plain wrench and a 15mm socket wrench. Stretch that old back and get under the dash. Put the 10mm wrench on the E-clip side of the shaft. Loosen the 15mm nut on the other side. You must move the shaft towards the E-clip side. You can turn the 15mm nut without the 10mm wrench holding it, that should loosen it a bit. Then just kind of pry and bang it towards the E-clip Side.

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12) Reinstall the E-Clip

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13) Tighten pedal shaft nut that was loosened in step 11. This is easier to do when the pedal arm is not yet mounted to the clutch rod. I didn't have to torque mind down a lot. There appeared to be some thread sealer already on it. I just tightened it down enough so the pedal didn't wiggle much left and right. Hopefully I don't have to do this step the next time I swap the bushings.

14) Attach pedal arm to birdcage clip that's already attached to the clutch rod hole.

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15) Install 2" flush mount body plug

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16) Reinstall washer fluid reservoir

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