check engine light

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sambo32

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I tried that button on the door panel, it does not even push in. It looks like its frozen, if I push any harder the button will push through the door panel. I guess will everything going wrong for me this is the least of my problems.
 

99sh

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I looked at the top of battery terminals and can see markes from battery booster packs or cables, which means my problem with the dash lights coming on is an existing issue, which kept killing the battery.

That's a big leap of assumptions. Have a dealer review your issue under warranty. Personally I wouldn't try to fix it yourself, which can complicate your warranty claim.
 
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sambo32

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The car has 3 miles and I didnt even drive it, I took possession of the car with theses problems. Its not like the problems happened after I drove the car. My goal is to try and correct the problems with out going to the dealer because I bought the car from Texas and I live in New York, that would be some drive to the dealer.
 

99sh

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It's a manufacturer's warranty, not a dealer's warranty. Find a good dealer in your area and have it serviced. It will be honored regardless where you purchased the car from.

Hopefully it's as simple as a battery replacement!
 

01sapphirebob

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A lot of problems can stem from a bad battery when it come to Vipers. I had an issue arise last year with my GEN IV. To try and make a long story short I had not put my car on a battery tender for over a month and one day I accidentally locked the car with my fob and noticed the vanity lights on the rearview mirror would not turn off. I tried a system rest by disconnecting the battery completely for about 10 min. After 10 min. I reconnected the battery and when I opened a door and closed it the vanity lights turned off after their normal 15-30 sec. run time. All from a bad battery. Recharging the battery IMO WILL NOT fix the issue. Get a new battery for the car and install and I have a feeling the problem will go resolve itself. :)

As fas as the gas cap...I don't have an answer for that other then if it's electronically opened (if thats even done nowadays) then I would assume the new battery would be the fix. Sorry your new baby is giving you trouble already but don;t let this sour your view of the viper. You will be happy you made the switch from the GT-R to the Viper! :) Good luck.
 

SADVIPER

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I'm sorry for your stupid bugs it sure looks silly, hope it get fixed.
I'm sure SRT will want to help you out.
 

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I've read the battery should be good without a tender for up to 30 days without running and hibernation mode, which is also activated thru the steering wheel, buys you about three months without a tender.

You should see a dealer. As mentioned, you are able to see a local one. Keep us posted on the progress.
 

46hemi

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I think the worrying part is that per the OP's observations it appears someone along the chain knew the car was having an issue but decided to move along with the transaction without rectifying the situation first. I think SRT should have a lot of questions for the selling dealer as it reflects poorly on the product. Either way it ***** to have to deal with this with a brand new car. I would call your local dealer prior to messing with it and start the process with them. Just document all of your findings and communications in detail. Best of luck.
 
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Jack B

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I believe the the dashboard diagnostics only show hard codes, those are emissions related.
 

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Yeah us euro cross over buyers are paying close attention. First the guy with the passenger side door that pops open when it's closed, then my horn getting stuck on, then the guy with the mis aligned door that caused paint damage from the window/door and now a flashing dash and cel for this poor guy. OP we feel for ya; there's so many bugs we need an exterminator.

Just think of all the owners whom are older and aren't Internet savy whom experience issues and don't post them. To some extent it's the chance we took in buying the 1st year; on the other hand ***
 

ViperSmith

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I think we are jumping the gun a bit. Could be as simple as a bad battery. Why not let him chat with a local dealer and see first.
 

Nine Ball

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Disconnect the battery (it is hidden under the trunk floor) and then charge it. Just have to remove the positive terminal. Not sure why gas cap button is wonky, unless the power issue isn't allowing the body control module to function properly. That button doesn't click by the way, it is just a momentary type button that has a soft push to activate it. There is a manual gas cover release tucked up inside the rear hatch area, owners manual shows how to use it.
 

wikkid

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What a joke. I would have someone on the phone immediately. This is ridiculous...
The car has 3 miles and I didnt even drive it, I took possession of the car with theses problems. Its not like the problems happened after I drove the car. My goal is to try and correct the problems with out going to the dealer because I bought the car from Texas and I live in New York, that would be some drive to the dealer.
 

DMan

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Sorry for the problems and good luck with everything.

As a 3 time viper owner I can attest that historically a bad or near dead battery can do some weird things that you'd think it wouldn't. I hope it's that simple, still not a great experience, but I hope that works out and it's not that they had some problem and some Curley, Moe, or Shep fried some electronics by tryin to charge or jump start it incorrectly or something. Let us know how it goes. As posted above, I too am watching these as it's getting a little too common to see quality issues with these deliveries.
 

ViperSmith

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Sorry for the problems and good luck with everything.

As a 3 time viper owner I can attest that historically a bad or near dead battery can do some weird things that you'd think it wouldn't. I hope it's that simple, still not a great experience, but I hope that works out and it's not that they had some problem and some Curley, Moe, or Shep fried some electronics by tryin to charge or jump start it incorrectly or something. Let us know how it goes. As posted above, I too am watching these as it's getting a little too common to see quality issues with these deliveries.

I think Kris has gotten the worst of it. But his minor issue of the window seem to be compounded by a lack luster dealership. No idea how he has kept his cool.
 

Jack B

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This is the correct fix, remove both battery/car leads and try to charge it. Once it has an apparent charge use a battery discharge tester, that will give you an accurate battery condition. The battery discharge tester can be purchased at Harbor Freight.

Disconnect the battery (it is hidden under the trunk floor) and then charge it. Just have to remove the positive terminal. Not sure why gas cap button is wonky, unless the power issue isn't allowing the body control module to function properly. That button doesn't click by the way, it is just a momentary type button that has a soft push to activate it. There is a manual gas cover release tucked up inside the rear hatch area, owners manual shows how to use it.
 

Policy Limits

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not sure about your applicable state but I believe locally if the same issue is unsuccessfully addressed within a certain amount of time the car can be returned under the lemon law; i'm no consumer lawyer and don't know the rules in your location but its something to keep in mind esp if she needs to keep going in on this issue.

again keep us posted.
 

Viper808

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check engine light could be from disconnecting the battery... I disconnected mine and put in a Brail lightweight racing battery and got a CEL.
I used my OBDII code reader I got a Harbour freight and erased the code...Same thing happened with my Gen IV....once erased its perfect.

There is a manual pull strap in the trunk on the far right ( passenger side ) to manually release the gas cap..

Your dash going on and off seams like a ground issue...and could be related to the battery....

Get a New Battery , get an OBDII code reader/eraser ( youll want one any way as theses cars love to throw codes) ..and you should be back
in business
 

Coloviper

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Sambo;

I would not touch a thing with it. It is a brand new car. Call the dealer up and let them (along with their new factory trained SRT technician) deal with the problem. They can pick it up on the trailer, take it back, put in a brand new battery to give you piece of mind and reprogram the car for initialization. It should fix the problem. Low battery or bad battery levels can cause all sorts of problems from your dash lights twinkling to bad sensor readings. Our Porsche Cayenne's were throwing fits with odd signals left and right. Turned out to be a bad battery. They replaced the battery and we had two trips to re-initialize everything on the car from the various ECms, PCMs etc. Each major component from transmission control module to this or that had to be reinitialized in a certain sequence, etc. to get it right. Took two return trips but is all right now. It happens!

I would not lose a minute of sleep over it and let the dealer take it back to fix it right. Manufacturers warranty, is if you are more than 200 miles from the dealer you bought from, I beleive you cna legally change the supporting dealer for your car. Within the 200 miles, you have to go to the dealer you purchased from for support. You qualify for a dealer trasnfer to NY. If you let the guys here know where abouts you are, I am sure they can recommend a trusted SRT dealer for you to transfer this all to as well as a PM contact.

If I had to guess, when the car drains down as such and then maybe gets opened, it could be going into an alarm type of mode where it thinks it has maybe been stolen, so the lights flash, etc. but is stuck in a loop of battery dying down and can't get over the **** to a fully charged battery. Only way to break the cycle is fully charge the battery, then reinstall.

If you have to charge it yourself, take the battery out and fully charge it, then put it back in fully charged. The procedure for battery install is very important and not just a hook them up like the old cars. These new cars are extremely fussy about that. Frustrating but maybe your battery is one of the build test batteries at the factory which unfortunately did not get changed back to a enw battery in the build process or maybe the dealer thought they had a bad battery and just through a battery around the shop in there. Too many variables and too many hands since factory delivery to just have the blame go back squarely on SRT from the beginning. Just being objective. Hope it gets squared away.
 
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sambo32

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Just put in a new battery and the same problem occurs, every 20 seconds the dash lights up for 5 seconds. When the dash lights up, its only the outer part of the dash meaning not the center rpm part. I opened the hatch to remove new battery and noticed the hatch has two led lights, when the hatch is opened and the led light are on the dash does NOT light up every 20 seconds. After about a half hour at me staring at the led light, they just went off while the hatch was still open, and again the dash lights came on every 20 seconds. At this time I went to remove the negative terminal, and when I touched the bolt on the negative terminal the led light in the hatch area came back on and no dash lights.
What is the small electronic device that is attached the the negative terminal that attaches to the battery.
If there are any SRT guys reading this post, please contact me 646-996-1084
 
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SADVIPER

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something electronic or some wiring drained the battery I don't know just keep it isolated.
guys someone plz help him his new 100+K car should not be isolated!!
 

kratedisease

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Sambo;

I would not touch a thing with it. It is a brand new car. Call the dealer up and let them (along with their new factory trained SRT technician) deal with the problem. They can pick it up on the trailer, take it back, put in a brand new battery to give you piece of mind and reprogram the car for initialization. It should fix the problem. Low battery or bad battery levels can cause all sorts of problems from your dash lights twinkling to bad sensor readings. Our Porsche Cayenne's were throwing fits with odd signals left and right. Turned out to be a bad battery. They replaced the battery and we had two trips to re-initialize everything on the car from the various ECms, PCMs etc. Each major component from transmission control module to this or that had to be reinitialized in a certain sequence, etc. to get it right. Took two return trips but is all right now. It happens!

I would not lose a minute of sleep over it and let the dealer take it back to fix it right. Manufacturers warranty, is if you are more than 200 miles from the dealer you bought from, I beleive you cna legally change the supporting dealer for your car. Within the 200 miles, you have to go to the dealer you purchased from for support. You qualify for a dealer trasnfer to NY. If you let the guys here know where abouts you are, I am sure they can recommend a trusted SRT dealer for you to transfer this all to as well as a PM contact.

If I had to guess, when the car drains down as such and then maybe gets opened, it could be going into an alarm type of mode where it thinks it has maybe been stolen, so the lights flash, etc. but is stuck in a loop of battery dying down and can't get over the **** to a fully charged battery. Only way to break the cycle is fully charge the battery, then reinstall.

If you have to charge it yourself, take the battery out and fully charge it, then put it back in fully charged. The procedure for battery install is very important and not just a hook them up like the old cars. These new cars are extremely fussy about that. Frustrating but maybe your battery is one of the build test batteries at the factory which unfortunately did not get changed back to a enw battery in the build process or maybe the dealer thought they had a bad battery and just through a battery around the shop in there. Too many variables and too many hands since factory delivery to just have the blame go back squarely on SRT from the beginning. Just being objective. Hope it gets squared away.

CORRECT.

It is not your obligation to look for the source of the problem.

let them flat bed it and make the dealer/Chrysler pay for the new battery.

Yes your battery may start the car and run the headlights, but the battery may have a low voltage condition. Your car will start even if the battery is at 11 volts, BUT YOUR COMPUTER operating systems will NOT work properly. They all need 12 volts and are designed to operate above 12.1 volts, and if your battery is at just below 12 volts the computers will not work properly and throw codes and cause electrical issues.

You battery is covered under warranty.

Have the dealer do it
 

Smog Dog

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Just put in a new battery and the same problem occurs, every 20 seconds the dash lights up for 5 seconds. When the dash lights up, its only the outer part of the dash meaning not the center rpm part. I opened the hatch to remove new battery and noticed the hatch has two led lights, when the hatch is opened and the led light are on the dash does NOT light up every 20 seconds. After about a half hour at me staring at the led light, they just went off while the hatch was still open, and again the dash lights came on every 20 seconds. At this time I went to remove the negative terminal, and when I touched the bolt on the negative terminal the led light in the hatch area came back on and no dash lights.
What is the small electronic device that is attached the the negative terminal that attaches to the battery.
If there are any SRT guys reading this post, please contact me 646-996-1084

Why you don't have a dealer involved with this is beyond me.....you have a brand new car with a warranty and you are talking to guys on a forum????

Bill
 
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sambo32

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I did contact the dealer and chrysler, they want to tow the car to a factory trained viper tech. Like everyone else, I know I will get the viper back with some type of damage.
The SRT guys have to know what the 20 second dash light means, it goes on every 20 seconds for 5 seconds, but when the hatch is opened and the hatch led are on, the dash lightd do NOT come on.
 

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