Mopar-man
Enthusiast
Did anyone ever use Mothers claybar system?
claybar
- Thread starter Mopar-man
- Start date
dave6666
Enthusiast
Griot's with Speedshine here. Can't imagine there's a whole lot of difference brand to brand, as I have used others in the past and they seemed no different.
CaptainDavid
Enthusiast
SkyBob
Enthusiast
I've never used one. How does the clay bar not scratch the paint?
Bob
Bob
dave6666
Enthusiast
Finest abrasive known...
RobZilla
Enthusiast
sniper1
Viper Owner
YEAH, they all have the same results, just make sure you follow through with a polish and then a seal and then a wax. 
sniper1
Viper Owner
Spray detailer serves as lube while rubbing the clay bar over the paint. Clay bar removes fine particles in and on the paint surface which makes for a very clean smooth surface. Remember to use lots of spray detailer and not let the clay bar get dry
I've been using Griot's Claybar and SpeedShine for years...I also tried Mothers and a couple of others but they produce the same results. Use plenty of lube with the clay bar. You may want to check with Turbo Wax (our detailing sponsor). Maybe they can get you to test out their clay products, if any. http://forums.viperclub.org/viper-detailing-tips-tricks/623837-turbo-wax-challenge.html
Spray detailer serves as lube while rubbing the clay bar over the paint. Clay bar removes fine particles in and on the paint surface which makes for a very clean smooth surface. Remember to use lots of spray detailer and not let the clay bar get dry
yeh, what he said
I use Adam's products and sometimes Zaino, however when I have been in a pinch I've used the Mother's clay bar, works fine for me!
You may THINK your car is clean, put polish and wax on it and not get that deep shine. The claybar takes off all the impurities you can't see, so that when you DO polish you are applying product to a clear surface. I always use detail spray to keep the car surface well-lubricated and I stretch/kneed the claybar frequently.
Actually, Griot's gives you more 8oz vs 7oz (detailing clay) and the price is cheaper. Plus, I love their pad that holds the clay bar for use with the orbital. Makes the process much faster. IMO. Paint Cleaning Clay Pad - Paint Cleaning Clay - Polishing - Car Care - Griot's Garage
If I may.........
We have already done a comparison, the regular clay bar product VS what we call our Oxidation and Bug remover, a product that we have way before all others on the market.
(For Larger view "click on the photo please
We are always looking to test our products against other products on the market, this time I decided to go head to head against one of the best clay bars on the market. We will call it X, so here is my take on the exercise.
First, what is a Clay Bar- a General description
Clay bar
Clay is a mixture of clay base and various mild abrasives. Clay along with a clay lubricant is used to remove paint contamination. Spray wax, window cleaner or water can work as a clay lubricant. Road grime, tar, bugs, rust, tree sap and even paint over spray can be removed with a clay bar.
Clay bars differ in color and density but what is most important is the type and amount of abrasive particles they contain. All clay bars will be labeled from "mild" to "strong" abrasive quality. Claying does not remove the clear coat of the paint but can cause marring or dullness if used incorrectly. When using a clay bar sufficient lubrication must be present to avoid scratching the paint.
It takes a few passes of clay to feel the difference on the surface of the paint. If the clay bar is dropped it must be discarded. The clay bar should be folded over frequently to expose clean surface. Claying does not replace polishing. It is a process that should be used before polishing compound is used.
One huge misconception is that all of them are the same. They are not, period.
General Comparison
Other brands Price $12.50- $16.00- Ours $14.99
Limited Life - Ours 25 Uses
Misuse could bring problems - Ours, easy to use, not intended to use under the heavy sun or hot surfaces
Dropped and is garbage- Ours just rinse it and re-use it
Works Properly at times extremely difficult to remove bugs- Ours will remove bugs with ease
Some of them to be effective specific lubricant is needed (only some products) ours uses Water.
Most of them are too big and difficult to handle- Ours easy to use
Some of them can cause dullness- Ours, not one single case reported
Removal of Over spray- may need different grades- Ours tested with extreme over spray, 98% came out
Low quality clay bar will damage the paint- Ours award winning product in 2007
Depending on condition you may need different grades- With ours if you don’t get great results you must move to a heavier product, compound or such, we haven’t found that to be the case yet
Test Mule, in all fairness the truck has been exposed to bad weather for the last 3 weeks.
Overhaul condition on surface same on both sides
Conventional Clay vs. Turbo Wax Oxidation Block (right side vs. left side)
First prepare the car shampoo
Nothing more than 1/4 once of car shampoo!!
Left side using conventional clay bar
Contaminants from surface on left side
Right side TW Oxidation block
Work in progress
Right side- Things that make you go Hmm,
Right side work in progress
Good Bye Bugs!!
Left Side
Left side I really had to work hard to get all of the bugs out, in some places I had re-do the work 4 or 5 times, eventually I got them out
After 2 passes with the conventional clay bar
After right side was washed and the TW Oxidation block used, I clayed the surface with the conventional clay. The results not one single trace of contaminants, this proved once again that our oxidation block does work a superb job ! Not one single trace!
Stains on bumper from the exhaust fumes from the turbo diesel
As found
Work in progress
End result
Some of the experts may not agreed with me but I'm happy with the results
Viper Tony,
Thank you for Acknowledging our presence on the detailing forums. It is Greatly appreciated.
We have already done a comparison, the regular clay bar product VS what we call our Oxidation and Bug remover, a product that we have way before all others on the market.
(For Larger view "click on the photo please
We are always looking to test our products against other products on the market, this time I decided to go head to head against one of the best clay bars on the market. We will call it X, so here is my take on the exercise.
First, what is a Clay Bar- a General description
Clay bar
Clay is a mixture of clay base and various mild abrasives. Clay along with a clay lubricant is used to remove paint contamination. Spray wax, window cleaner or water can work as a clay lubricant. Road grime, tar, bugs, rust, tree sap and even paint over spray can be removed with a clay bar.
Clay bars differ in color and density but what is most important is the type and amount of abrasive particles they contain. All clay bars will be labeled from "mild" to "strong" abrasive quality. Claying does not remove the clear coat of the paint but can cause marring or dullness if used incorrectly. When using a clay bar sufficient lubrication must be present to avoid scratching the paint.
It takes a few passes of clay to feel the difference on the surface of the paint. If the clay bar is dropped it must be discarded. The clay bar should be folded over frequently to expose clean surface. Claying does not replace polishing. It is a process that should be used before polishing compound is used.
One huge misconception is that all of them are the same. They are not, period.
General Comparison
Other brands Price $12.50- $16.00- Ours $14.99
Limited Life - Ours 25 Uses
Misuse could bring problems - Ours, easy to use, not intended to use under the heavy sun or hot surfaces
Dropped and is garbage- Ours just rinse it and re-use it
Works Properly at times extremely difficult to remove bugs- Ours will remove bugs with ease
Some of them to be effective specific lubricant is needed (only some products) ours uses Water.
Most of them are too big and difficult to handle- Ours easy to use
Some of them can cause dullness- Ours, not one single case reported
Removal of Over spray- may need different grades- Ours tested with extreme over spray, 98% came out
Low quality clay bar will damage the paint- Ours award winning product in 2007
Depending on condition you may need different grades- With ours if you don’t get great results you must move to a heavier product, compound or such, we haven’t found that to be the case yet
Test Mule, in all fairness the truck has been exposed to bad weather for the last 3 weeks.
Overhaul condition on surface same on both sides
You must be registered for see images
Conventional Clay vs. Turbo Wax Oxidation Block (right side vs. left side)
You must be registered for see images
First prepare the car shampoo
Nothing more than 1/4 once of car shampoo!!
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
Left side using conventional clay bar
You must be registered for see images
Contaminants from surface on left side
You must be registered for see images
Right side TW Oxidation block
You must be registered for see images
Work in progress
You must be registered for see images
Right side- Things that make you go Hmm,
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
Right side work in progress
You must be registered for see images
Good Bye Bugs!!
You must be registered for see images
Left Side
You must be registered for see images
Left side I really had to work hard to get all of the bugs out, in some places I had re-do the work 4 or 5 times, eventually I got them out
You must be registered for see images
After 2 passes with the conventional clay bar
You must be registered for see images
After right side was washed and the TW Oxidation block used, I clayed the surface with the conventional clay. The results not one single trace of contaminants, this proved once again that our oxidation block does work a superb job ! Not one single trace!
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
Stains on bumper from the exhaust fumes from the turbo diesel
As found
You must be registered for see images
Work in progress
You must be registered for see images
End result
You must be registered for see images
Some of the experts may not agreed with me but I'm happy with the results
Viper Tony,
Thank you for Acknowledging our presence on the detailing forums. It is Greatly appreciated.
SkyBob
Enthusiast
YEAH, they all have the same results, just make sure you follow through with a polish and then a seal and then a wax.
You guys (and gals) amaze me. I feel unworthy to own a Viper.
I have never owned a vehicle that deserves such tender, loving care so I don't know a lot about shining a surface to show-quality perfection, but does everybody clay, then polish, then seal, then wax? I think I remember Tere saying something about half-a-dozen coats of wax.
I am so not worthy. I might have to sell the Viper and drive a Chevette.
Bob
mad0953
Enthusiast
FYI....If you want to see if your paint needs to be clayed put a plastic baggie over you hand and slide it over the paint....you can feel the debris. Now clay it and run the baggie over the same spot.....the debris is gone and the paint is as smooth as glass.
Big Mac
Viper Owner
I used the Meguiars clay bar kit and it worked great. I did my 09 Ram with it too.
PittsburghRT
Enthusiast
I have used the Mothers kit numerous times and it worked great without scratching or damaging the finish.
cash84
Viper Owner
dittos used it today and pulled off alot of black spots and very pleased with mothers.
Simms
Enthusiast
Let me ask a question, if I am good with a buffer (the real thing, not an orbital), is there any reason to use a clay bar? A foam pad with 3M Perfect It gives me the same result.
I understand the clay bar is less abrasive and will not hurt my clear coat when used properly, but are there any other reasons to use it rather than a good buffing?
I understand the clay bar is less abrasive and will not hurt my clear coat when used properly, but are there any other reasons to use it rather than a good buffing?
Ummmm......There is a BIG difference in clay bars....
There are three different "professional" clay bars. You can get them Auto Industry paint supply houses or some detail shops.
There is a purple bar..It has the highest grade of abrasion. good for overspray or "heavy" cleaning.
There are two grades of grey bars. One is finer than the other.
These type of clay bars dont even compare to the "playdoh' that is sold over the counter at retail parts stores.
Also, while detail spray or soapy water are OK I guess. There are silicone based lubricants designed especially for clay bars. Again, these products far exceed the the products sold over the counter.
I was told by one of my detailing "instructors" not to use the buffer pad that is designed to be used with a clay bar. The reason is that you can't feel the lubricant on the finish. If there isn't enough lubricant the clay bar will scratch the hel out of the finish.
FWIW.. Hopefully everyone is using the clay bar once and discarding.
But...Before you throw it away, try using the clay on your wheels. It is amazing how slick and shiny they will get. They are a lot easier to clean after you do.
FWIW/IMHO... the above statements are based on hours, and hours, and...hours of personal research and practice. Also, having several friends in the high end detailing business helps me keep up to date on the latest products and practices.
There are three different "professional" clay bars. You can get them Auto Industry paint supply houses or some detail shops.
There is a purple bar..It has the highest grade of abrasion. good for overspray or "heavy" cleaning.
There are two grades of grey bars. One is finer than the other.
These type of clay bars dont even compare to the "playdoh' that is sold over the counter at retail parts stores.
Also, while detail spray or soapy water are OK I guess. There are silicone based lubricants designed especially for clay bars. Again, these products far exceed the the products sold over the counter.
I was told by one of my detailing "instructors" not to use the buffer pad that is designed to be used with a clay bar. The reason is that you can't feel the lubricant on the finish. If there isn't enough lubricant the clay bar will scratch the hel out of the finish.
FWIW.. Hopefully everyone is using the clay bar once and discarding.
But...Before you throw it away, try using the clay on your wheels. It is amazing how slick and shiny they will get. They are a lot easier to clean after you do.
FWIW/IMHO... the above statements are based on hours, and hours, and...hours of personal research and practice. Also, having several friends in the high end detailing business helps me keep up to date on the latest products and practices.
I was told it is a good idea to clay the car before you use a buffer. The reason is that the clay "pulls" out small pieces if metal, brake dust etc. that are embedded in the paint. (The plastic bag test mentioned by MAD0953 is a good way to feel these contaminants) If you don't remove these abrasives first, you are literally buffing them into your paint. Then you pick them up in your buffer pad and spread all over your car....
Zaino used to recommend that you put some detergent like Dawn and ONLY do it in the shade and wash your car to cut existing waxes, DAWN does cut waxes, and use the clay bar with the dawn for lubrication. Use a lot of rinse water and then dry the car with blower or micro towels.....then put on the numbered Zaino products and the results are easy to do and will look brilliant !! Just my $.02
VicTxV10
Enthusiast
Will using the clay bar help smooth out the clear coat? I ask because I have some small chips behind my front wheels on the sills from road dirt/rocks. Or is this something that will have to smoothed out and repainted?
Simms
Enthusiast
Some good info in here.
Treesnake, thanks for your input.
Treesnake, thanks for your input.
triblk6spd
Viper Owner
No. Sorry. Scratches in the clear will need to be buffed out.
triblk6spd
Viper Owner
I think it was mentioned but, claying down the paint before pulling out the buffer (HS or Random) will keep contaminants from dirtying up the pads and being dragged along on the paint as you polish/buff. That being said, I do not clay every time I pull out the Porter Cable.
I've been using Griot's Claybar and the claybar pad holder for the buffer. I agree if one is not keeping an eye on the amount of lubricant, the pad can cause fine scratches but one really has to be an idiot to make that happen. I let the pad soak up the SpeedShine before starting and so long as I keep the paint surface slick all is well. The key...is to keep the clay, not the pad, on the surface while claying. The Griot's products are safe, maybe too safe, but work well on good paint.
Who makes an aggressive Claybar out there besides Meguiar's?
One of the main reasons to claybar besides achieving a better finish/result, is preservation.
All those microscopic shards of bare metallic debris (brake dust, rail dust, etc) imbedded in the paints surface start oxidizing immediately. As someone mentioned above, run a plastic baggy over the surface after using the claybar - if it slides freely and doesnt hang-up on anything, the surface is decontaminated and ready to be polished/sealed.
Jim
All those microscopic shards of bare metallic debris (brake dust, rail dust, etc) imbedded in the paints surface start oxidizing immediately. As someone mentioned above, run a plastic baggy over the surface after using the claybar - if it slides freely and doesnt hang-up on anything, the surface is decontaminated and ready to be polished/sealed.
Jim
