Dixter
Enthusiast
Can someone tell me how to bleed the clutch master/slave cylender
Where does the fluid come out at down around the bell housing???
Thanx
Where does the fluid come out at down around the bell housing???
Thanx
Clutch Bleeding....
- Thread starter Dixter
- Start date
Janni
Enthusiast
There is a bleed screw located so that you can barely get to it by reaching over the center removable pan. Service manual probably has exact location. You unscrew slightly and we insert a pointy tip on our Mityvac and start bleeding. Keeping an eye on the reservoir up top. Once you do it once, it's not that bad.
Ron
Enthusiast
The bleed screw is shrouded by a rubber sleeve that you'll have to push back in order to expose. It's right above where the clutch fluid supply line enters the bell housing. Easier to work the screw with the belly pan removed. 1/2" hex as I remember. I vacuum bleed with a Vacula and it works great. As Janni mentions, it has a small master so check frequently so you can avoid pulling air.
Dixter
Enthusiast
Does the fluid come out of the bleed screw like it does on the brakes ???
So I guess what I'm asking is, do I put a rubber tube on the screw and then
loosen the screw and bleed just like the brakes??, and let the fluid run
into a coke bottle...
Thats how I do the brakes anyway.
So I guess what I'm asking is, do I put a rubber tube on the screw and then
loosen the screw and bleed just like the brakes??, and let the fluid run
into a coke bottle...
Thats how I do the brakes anyway.
Ron
Enthusiast
Yes, the fluid comes out the center of the bleed screw, just like brakes, though the screw is of a different design. The shop manual describes the manual method.
Viperfreak2
Enthusiast
and you are doing this because??? My clutch feels strange (sometimes) at a stop I have to pump it a couple times to get a solid feel back. Should I bleed>?
Dixter
Enthusiast
Well, its kind of a long story.. but I was cleaning the engine bay the other
day with a water hose and a air compressor nozzel. And I think I may have blown air into the clutch fill cap and air into the clutch hydrolic line.
So, the clutch is sluggish, the manual does not show the best picture of the
bell housing and bleed screw, the manual is not the most intuitive manual
written as to bleeding the clutch hydrolic's.
So, I didn't want to jack up the car, loosen the bleed screw and have the
fluids shoot all over the place.
Never have done a clutch bleed, I thouhgt I'd ask the experts. As noted
this bleed screw doesn't even look like a bleed screw. Looking at it I'm
not sure how to go about putting a hose on the end of a hex!
I think all I have to do is this:
1. Have someone in the car to press the clutch in.
2. Jack the car up and put a hose on the end of the hex bleed screw that is shown on the bell housing ( as shown in the manual )
3. Loosen the bleed screw while the person in the car is pressing the clutch
in.
4. Tighten the bleed screw while the person holds the clutch down.
5. Put more fluid ( DOT 3) in. and repeat a couple more times until the fluid
that is coming out is now clear. ( clutch fluid is normally black-dark )
6. Make sure the bleed screw is tight, remove the hose and the bottle collecting the fluid.
7. Take the car off of the jack stands and lower car to the ground.
8. Get into the car and test the clutch ( with and without engine running )
9. If all works... then OK. If not then load car onto hauler and haul car to
the Viper Tech and have the Clutch hydrolic actuator changed out. or the Clutch
master cyclinder replaced. Or both...
day with a water hose and a air compressor nozzel. And I think I may have blown air into the clutch fill cap and air into the clutch hydrolic line.
So, the clutch is sluggish, the manual does not show the best picture of the
bell housing and bleed screw, the manual is not the most intuitive manual
written as to bleeding the clutch hydrolic's.
So, I didn't want to jack up the car, loosen the bleed screw and have the
fluids shoot all over the place.
Never have done a clutch bleed, I thouhgt I'd ask the experts. As noted
this bleed screw doesn't even look like a bleed screw. Looking at it I'm
not sure how to go about putting a hose on the end of a hex!
I think all I have to do is this:
1. Have someone in the car to press the clutch in.
2. Jack the car up and put a hose on the end of the hex bleed screw that is shown on the bell housing ( as shown in the manual )
3. Loosen the bleed screw while the person in the car is pressing the clutch
in.
4. Tighten the bleed screw while the person holds the clutch down.
5. Put more fluid ( DOT 3) in. and repeat a couple more times until the fluid
that is coming out is now clear. ( clutch fluid is normally black-dark )
6. Make sure the bleed screw is tight, remove the hose and the bottle collecting the fluid.
7. Take the car off of the jack stands and lower car to the ground.
8. Get into the car and test the clutch ( with and without engine running )
9. If all works... then OK. If not then load car onto hauler and haul car to
the Viper Tech and have the Clutch hydrolic actuator changed out. or the Clutch
master cyclinder replaced. Or both...
ntmatter
Enthusiast
Here's the method that I use to change out the clutch fluid:
1. Get a turkey baster that you don't mind ruining. Suction out all of the clutch reservoir fluid and fill with new.
2. Wait a few minutes - you'll see the impure fluid in the line start to spiral up in the clear fluid (it's lighter). After the reservoir fluid has darkened thoroughly, **** it out again and refill.
3. Repeat a few times until no impure fluid floats up into the reservoir. Close the cap.
This isn't quite as perfect Dixter's method above, but you get about 95% of the benefit with 5% of the work, and you can do it yourself.
1. Get a turkey baster that you don't mind ruining. Suction out all of the clutch reservoir fluid and fill with new.
2. Wait a few minutes - you'll see the impure fluid in the line start to spiral up in the clear fluid (it's lighter). After the reservoir fluid has darkened thoroughly, **** it out again and refill.
3. Repeat a few times until no impure fluid floats up into the reservoir. Close the cap.
This isn't quite as perfect Dixter's method above, but you get about 95% of the benefit with 5% of the work, and you can do it yourself.
Ron
Enthusiast
If you have air in the line, Andy's method most likely will not remove it. The hardest part of Dixter's method is safely jacking and jack standing the car. Beyond that, it's really no big deal.
Dixter. I'd swap your #1 & #2, i.e. jack the car up before depressing the clutch. As I remember the manual suggests pumping the pedal rapidly several times then holding it down while you open the bleed valve. As you stated, tighten the valve then release the pedal. Repeat until air is out and fluid is clear. Don't let the master drain while pumping. Have a bright light under there and position it so you can clearly see the fluid as it bleeds into a jar.
The hex portion of the bleeder is quite long so putting a hose over the end leaves plenty of room for the wrench. Just pre-purchase an assortment of clear plastic hose from your local Home Deport or Lowes so you're covered. It's bigger than what you'd typically use for brakes.
There is a torque spec for the bleeder but can't remember without looking it up.
Dixter. I'd swap your #1 & #2, i.e. jack the car up before depressing the clutch. As I remember the manual suggests pumping the pedal rapidly several times then holding it down while you open the bleed valve. As you stated, tighten the valve then release the pedal. Repeat until air is out and fluid is clear. Don't let the master drain while pumping. Have a bright light under there and position it so you can clearly see the fluid as it bleeds into a jar.
The hex portion of the bleeder is quite long so putting a hose over the end leaves plenty of room for the wrench. Just pre-purchase an assortment of clear plastic hose from your local Home Deport or Lowes so you're covered. It's bigger than what you'd typically use for brakes.
There is a torque spec for the bleeder but can't remember without looking it up.
