Clutch issues during longer drives

[zombie]

Greetings to all. I picked up a fairly low mileage (66k kilometers / 41k miles) a month ago and over the first couple hundred miles I've had some intermittent problems with clutch engagement.

Originally the problem seemed to be that the hydraulic fluid in the clutch reservoir was black (and I mean black).

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I searched on here and saw people recommended to go to DOT4 for the higher boiling point, so I cleaned out the reservoir as best I could with a syringe and a clean rag and then added new fluid. First drive or two, everything seemed okay, but if I go for a drive longer than 20 or 30 minutes, by the end of the drive the clutch will sometimes not engage and/or the pedal will go pretty much right to the floor with no resistance, pumping the pedal seemed to build up pressure eventually. My car throws a LOT of heat so I'm not sure if it's getting too hot at the transmission or what.

I just used generic "mopar" compatible DOT4 fluid, but should I go with higher spec fluid or should I just bite the bullet and have the slave cylinder replaced?

Thanks for any tips or help you folks can provide.

 

[Old School]

You need to bleed the system

 

[Steve M]

Any mods on the car, specifically exhaust mods? Headers for instance?

The clutch hydraulic line runs pretty close to the exhaust by design, so any mods that remove heat shields or bring the primaries closer to that line can cause issues. I could imagine clogged cats causing similar issues.

As @Old School stated, bleeding the system is a must. Simply sucking the reservoir dry and refilling/pumping the pedal (a.k.a. the Ranger method from around 20 years or so ago) doesn't cut it. You have to crawl under the car and get to the bleeder screw that comes out of the bell housing (above the hydraulic feed line). Might want to find someone with skinny arms/small hands to assist, as it isn't the easiest to get to.

If you ever end up needing to replace the clutch, do yourself a favor and install a remote bleeder line...makes the process so much easier.

 

[zombie]

Any mods on the car, specifically exhaust mods? Headers for instance?

The clutch hydraulic line runs pretty close to the exhaust by design, so any mods that remove heat shields or bring the primaries closer to that line can cause issues. I could imagine clogged cats causing similar issues.

As @Old School stated, bleeding the system is a must. Simply sucking the reservoir dry and refilling/pumping the pedal (a.k.a. the Ranger method from around 20 years or so ago) doesn't cut it. You have to crawl under the car and get to the bleeder screw that comes out of the bell housing (above the hydraulic feed line). Might want to find someone with skinny arms/small hands to assist, as it isn't the easiest to get to.

If you ever end up needing to replace the clutch, do yourself a favor and install a remote bleeder line...makes the process so much easier.

Yes, the car has a Belanger full setup including headers.

I guess I will try to bleed the system, I've got a vacuum bleeder somewhere so hopefully that will help.

Thanks for the replies guys

 

[EastCoastSRT10]

Yep, Bleed the system. Mine did the same thing when the clutch fluid was contaminated with water.

 

[Steve M]

Bleeding will help, but this is going to become a regular occurrence due to the heat from the headers, so get used to the process.

Bleed early, bleed often.

 

[Greg114]

I have the same issue with my 06, on hot summer days it's good for about a 30 minute drive after that the clutch starts acting up from the heat. I have an ace mechanic, top notch, he typically works on high-end vehicles and he told me he has seen the same problem in other vehicles.

 

[Dan Cragin]

re-route the clutch line, you need to disconnect it and move it out of the
way. Its most likely right next to one header tube.

 

[04Mamba]

I had the complete Belanger system installed in my 04' this summer (even paid extra for the header ceramic coating for heat reduction - waste of money). On my way home, the clutch pedal went to the floor while I was driving at 60 MPH. Talk about panic mode - pumped the pedal twice and the clutch pressure come back. Called the installer/mechanic and was told "Oh yeah, that can be a problem since we had to remove the factory heat shields. And you need to change your clutch fluid, it looked a little dark." Nice to know, AFTER, you're zipping down the highway. Anyway, I changed the fluid and put in Heat Shield Products heat guard wrap. Do not use heat shield tape, it will void the Belanger warranty (causes rust issues). These two changes, fluid change and heat shielding, have taken care of my issues. Plus, the car's cabin is a little cooler to boot. Rerouting the clutch line away from the drivers side header and adding a bleeder valve is this winters project.

 

[ACRric]

The blackness is from the hydraulic hose. Change them before bleeding the system. I have the Belanger headers with no covering and no problems, just black fluid.

 

[viperBase1]

I searched on here and saw people recommended to go to DOT4 for the higher boiling point..

Yea get the highest boiling point rating you can find.
Something like Motul RBF 700 (or at least the RBF 600).

Congrats on your new Viper and welcome to Viper ownership!

 

[beerly]

+1 on rerouting the clutch line. After I installed the Belanger headers, high flow cats, and corsa pipes, I had the exact same problem. Boiling the fluid. IIRC wrapping the line and rerouting solved the issue.