While this is not a big deal, it is the first mod I have made to the Viper. I did find a DIY writeup in the member section, but the photos have since been moved or deleted. So I figured I'd go ahead and share what I did, if nothing else, to get fresh photos up. This is not a major deal, in fact it's pretty simple. However, it does make a huge difference. You'll see in the shots below.
The car is a 2002 GTS in case there are any differences (I doubt it) in the assembly we are looking at.
I ordered the kit and got it in pretty quickly. Instructions are clear and good. No issues there. I did follow them including the most important one... TAPE THE CARPET TO THE INSIDE OF THE DRIVER'S FOOT WELL! Basically this keeps anything from dropping behind the carpet. I did not have the trouble, but I can see how it can EASILY happen. I over did the taping... but it can't hurt.
So what we are essentially doing is replacing a link on the clutch pedal assembly. Changing the bar changes the geometry of the mechanism. This changes gives you two benefits. First, the position of the pedal when not being used. It is much lower. While it is not completely even with the brake pedal, the difference is huge. Comfort in driving the car goes up. (I'm 6'2" tall... in case you are wondering). The position of the pedal is more relaxed, for me, with the mod. Second, the throw of the clutch will drop. In other words, the distance the pedal travels to engage/disengage the clutch is shorter. Below is the stock position of the pedal.
The tools I used/needed:
Flashlight of some sort. I used an LED lamp I can hang off of things or attach with a magnet. Very helpful as it is dark under there.
Needle nose pliers. I have a 12" version that helps, but it is not necesarry. Ijust change how far I have to reach.
Flat head screwdriver. This is just to pry off the clips you will see in a second.
As you can imagine, you will have to get under the dash. However, it is not as bad as you think. I would not say you have to get under there and be upside down in the wheel well for 20 minutes. In reality, I got in there once or twice to see what I was grabbing, after that, you can do it reaching into the area. I have a good reach but I'd say it's doable for most.
The simple steps...
First we have to get the stock bar out. Below is what you will find under the dash. The red arrow is pointing to the bar that will come out. The yellow arrows are the two clips that must be pulled to release it. The only thing I'd not here is the direction the clips come out. If you look at the lower of these two clips in the photo, you are looking at the clip (more or less) on profile. On the lower side (in the photo) you see the bent spring lock. On the upper side a lip. You will pull on the lip away from the pin. In this photo, it would be upwards. In order to remove it, you must pry the spring (lower side in the photo) up or out from the pin. This releases it and the clip pops out. The clip does have some spring tension to it so if you pull it out, be sure to have a hold of it so it does not spring out and get lost someplace.
Once those are out, the washers will be removed. In my case they just dropped off. The order in which they will go back on is below. Plastic washer against the new bar, the larger steel washer and then the clip.
Once those are off, the stock bar should come right out. You might need to wiggle the pedal a touch, but it should come out easily. The photo below shows you what you should have with the bar out. Note here, the black bushing should stay where the arrows are pointing. If they drop out... put them back in before the new bar goes on. They are the same so no worries if you lose track.
This is a comparison of the two bars. The shorter is the new one.
The new bar drops onto the two black bushings. You will have to depress the pedal a touch for it to allow you to place the bar over the pins. I found it is easier to place on the pin that is higher and closer to the back of the car. The front pin will move with the pedal. So, move it in and out until it drops on. It will go one easily, no force should be needed. You place the plastic washer on, then the steel and that is capped off by the clip.
A note on the clips. Take a look at them and make sure they are good. No cracks etc. Also, check to see how the clip bent side looks. In my case the clip side had to be bent a bit back. Over time they will loosen. It is very unlikely that they will pop out, but by prying them up a bit they might bend a tad and not be as tight going back on. I simply bent them tighter again with the needle nose. It takes a second. No need to over do it. Just make sure it is tighter than it came off and the click when you put it on will be noticeable and the clip will be secure.
Min came off looking like this:
I bent them a touch and they went back in like these:
Below is the bar with the clips in. Getting the clips back on was not the hardest but it was also not the easiest part of the fix. Just take your time and make sure the washers are in as they should be. The outer steel one tends to come out and get in the ay of the clip. Just make sure everybody is lined up and put the clips on. Make certain the clips are firmly seated and the spring side has engaged. Check it twice. Once you are certain you are good, take the car out for a drive. This is what it will look like.
With everything in, this is the net result of the pedal position change.
While it is not dead even with the brake pedal, the difference is huge. It may seem like a couple of inches, but the drivability of the car improves a great deal. The whole swap took less than 30 minutes. Very easy.
I hope this helps and gives some folks a couple of shots to look at as reference.
The car is a 2002 GTS in case there are any differences (I doubt it) in the assembly we are looking at.
I ordered the kit and got it in pretty quickly. Instructions are clear and good. No issues there. I did follow them including the most important one... TAPE THE CARPET TO THE INSIDE OF THE DRIVER'S FOOT WELL! Basically this keeps anything from dropping behind the carpet. I did not have the trouble, but I can see how it can EASILY happen. I over did the taping... but it can't hurt.
So what we are essentially doing is replacing a link on the clutch pedal assembly. Changing the bar changes the geometry of the mechanism. This changes gives you two benefits. First, the position of the pedal when not being used. It is much lower. While it is not completely even with the brake pedal, the difference is huge. Comfort in driving the car goes up. (I'm 6'2" tall... in case you are wondering). The position of the pedal is more relaxed, for me, with the mod. Second, the throw of the clutch will drop. In other words, the distance the pedal travels to engage/disengage the clutch is shorter. Below is the stock position of the pedal.
You must be registered for see images attach
The tools I used/needed:
Flashlight of some sort. I used an LED lamp I can hang off of things or attach with a magnet. Very helpful as it is dark under there.
Needle nose pliers. I have a 12" version that helps, but it is not necesarry. Ijust change how far I have to reach.
Flat head screwdriver. This is just to pry off the clips you will see in a second.
As you can imagine, you will have to get under the dash. However, it is not as bad as you think. I would not say you have to get under there and be upside down in the wheel well for 20 minutes. In reality, I got in there once or twice to see what I was grabbing, after that, you can do it reaching into the area. I have a good reach but I'd say it's doable for most.
The simple steps...
First we have to get the stock bar out. Below is what you will find under the dash. The red arrow is pointing to the bar that will come out. The yellow arrows are the two clips that must be pulled to release it. The only thing I'd not here is the direction the clips come out. If you look at the lower of these two clips in the photo, you are looking at the clip (more or less) on profile. On the lower side (in the photo) you see the bent spring lock. On the upper side a lip. You will pull on the lip away from the pin. In this photo, it would be upwards. In order to remove it, you must pry the spring (lower side in the photo) up or out from the pin. This releases it and the clip pops out. The clip does have some spring tension to it so if you pull it out, be sure to have a hold of it so it does not spring out and get lost someplace.
You must be registered for see images attach
Once those are out, the washers will be removed. In my case they just dropped off. The order in which they will go back on is below. Plastic washer against the new bar, the larger steel washer and then the clip.
You must be registered for see images attach
Once those are off, the stock bar should come right out. You might need to wiggle the pedal a touch, but it should come out easily. The photo below shows you what you should have with the bar out. Note here, the black bushing should stay where the arrows are pointing. If they drop out... put them back in before the new bar goes on. They are the same so no worries if you lose track.
You must be registered for see images attach
This is a comparison of the two bars. The shorter is the new one.
You must be registered for see images attach
The new bar drops onto the two black bushings. You will have to depress the pedal a touch for it to allow you to place the bar over the pins. I found it is easier to place on the pin that is higher and closer to the back of the car. The front pin will move with the pedal. So, move it in and out until it drops on. It will go one easily, no force should be needed. You place the plastic washer on, then the steel and that is capped off by the clip.
A note on the clips. Take a look at them and make sure they are good. No cracks etc. Also, check to see how the clip bent side looks. In my case the clip side had to be bent a bit back. Over time they will loosen. It is very unlikely that they will pop out, but by prying them up a bit they might bend a tad and not be as tight going back on. I simply bent them tighter again with the needle nose. It takes a second. No need to over do it. Just make sure it is tighter than it came off and the click when you put it on will be noticeable and the clip will be secure.
Min came off looking like this:
You must be registered for see images attach
I bent them a touch and they went back in like these:
You must be registered for see images attach
Below is the bar with the clips in. Getting the clips back on was not the hardest but it was also not the easiest part of the fix. Just take your time and make sure the washers are in as they should be. The outer steel one tends to come out and get in the ay of the clip. Just make sure everybody is lined up and put the clips on. Make certain the clips are firmly seated and the spring side has engaged. Check it twice. Once you are certain you are good, take the car out for a drive. This is what it will look like.
You must be registered for see images attach
With everything in, this is the net result of the pedal position change.
You must be registered for see images attach
While it is not dead even with the brake pedal, the difference is huge. It may seem like a couple of inches, but the drivability of the car improves a great deal. The whole swap took less than 30 minutes. Very easy.
I hope this helps and gives some folks a couple of shots to look at as reference.
