Clutch reservoir cap

[Jim Myke]

Does anyone know if a cap is available for a power bleader?

 

[Steve M]

When I needed one many years ago for that exact purpose, I bought one from X2 builders (assuming it was from a scrapped Viper), and then sent it to Motive for them to modify for their Power Bleeder. Motive did not have a cap for my specific application at the time...not sure if that's changed though.

 

[daveg]

I know motive makes one for brakes but not sure about Clutch.

 

[GTS Dean]

You'll have to use a very low regulated pressure source. Everything on top is designed for gravity flow. I would recommend using a small pointy-tip adapter in the bleeder extension with a constant vacuum source. Don't let the reservoir run dry!

 

[Steve M]

I know motive makes one for brakes but not sure about Clutch.

This is accurate for my Gen 4 - their 1103 adapter works on the Gen 4 Viper's brake master cylinder reservoir (and likely works for other Gens as well), no mods required. I had to send them a spare clutch reservoir cap to be modified to make it work for that. I also modified the rubber diaphragm (I snipped the bottom of it) to make sure the cap made a good seal. Not sure if that's required, but it works, so I keep doing it that way.

You'll have to use a very low regulated pressure source. Everything on top is designed for gravity flow. I would recommend using a small pointy-tip adapter in the bleeder extension with a constant vacuum source. Don't let the reservoir run dry!

It can work, but yes, it isn't exactly designed for pressure bleeding.

I wouldn't use a pressure bleeder unless you also had a remote bleeder line installed - I've done it with the stock slave cylinder bleeder, and it made a mess as you'd expect. With the stock bleeder screw, a vacuum bleeder would be a better choice, but it is just so damn cramped in the tunnel that it makes it really hard to work in there.

With a remote bleeder installed, I'll use my Motive Power Bleeder with the custom clutch master cylinder reservoir cap and modified rubber diaphragm. I also modified the main tank of the Power Bleeder to accept a generic tire valve stem to pressurize the system instead of using the hand pump. The hand pump works, but I never liked the idea of aerating the fluid in the process of pressurizing the system. I turn down the regulator on my air compressor to about 30 pounds or so, and then use that to pressurize the Power Bleeder to around 5-10 psi (going by the gauge on the Power Bleeder). The clutch hydraulics appear to be able to handle that pressure without issue, and it certainly moves the fluid through the system.

Is it perfect? No, but it does allow one person (important because I usually work solo) to bleed the clutch hydraulics without the need to get the car up in the air.

 

[Steve M]

Picture for the curious:

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It ain't pretty, but it works.