Components for a Stroked engine?

Kai SRT10

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Anyone here done a stroker engine?

Who sells the best parts and components?

I'm going to have to rebuild my engine anyway because of a damaged piston, so I figure I might as well add a bunch more power while I'm at it.

Any suggestions as to the best parts to use would be appreciated.

Kai
 

acrdakota

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You not going to see some major jump in HP going to a 522, and honestly I don't think it's worth the added cost unless your already replacing parts.

Offset grind the crank, shop dependant
custom billet rods $1200+
custom pistons $900+
You can get a billet crank, but it will cost a small fortune and take the better part of a YEAR to get.
 

ViperGMC

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RSI has it all for that,they are listed on this sitein the marketplace
 

STUGOTS

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You not going to see some major jump in HP going to a 522, and honestly I don't think it's worth the added cost unless your already replacing parts.

Offset grind the crank, shop dependant
custom billet rods $1200+
custom pistons $900+
You can get a billet crank, but it will cost a small fortune and take the better part of a YEAR to get.

but you will see TQ right?
 

acrdakota

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but you will see TQ right?

A bit but nothing to write home about, it's 16ci, not exactly an earth shattering displacement advantage. If you were going to add .500 to the stroke and really get somewhere I could see it, but just to offset grind the crank is kinda pointless IMO.

besides that the fastest cars are stock CI or smaller even ;) Last thing these cars need is more torque.
 

Go Fast For Life

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A 542ci -- .25" stroker crank and .030 overbore -- is a good combination.

I agree that the 522 offset ground crank is not a good idea unless the crank is re-heat treated.

The truth is that building a stroker Viper is an expensive proposition simply because no one makes a blank Viper crank forging and all the custom cranks are either offset ground from the stock crank or cnc cut from billet stock ($$).

But the fact that the cranks are usually billet cranks makes them all that much stronger and a better platform for future power adders like super/turbochargers.
 

Joseph Dell

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But if you are rebuilding anyway, the costs for non-stroker are about the same as for a stroker (sans crank). heck, if we were talking about a gen2, a stroker motor is CHEAPER than a non!

Look at the mopar price on a GenII crank... then look at the price for a GenIII crank. GenIII is over $1000 cheaper. That difference buys you rods or pistons. Then all you need are the _other_ (rods or pistons) and you are set. And the stock rods might work just fine! So 2500 gets you a stroker motor plus labor and gaskets... not too bad, ey?

JD
 
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Kai SRT10

Kai SRT10

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After a lot of searching the internet and reading, I'm leaning toward Crower billet rods and Crower billet crank, JE pistons, Clevite bearings with polydyn coating, and, if necessary to re-sleeve the block, Darton sleeves.
Will probably go with slightly bigger injectors and upgraded fuel pump as well.

I'm also considering "striker" heads from http://www.jmcylinderheads.com/

A dry sump system from West Coast Viper is also a possibility.

I can already see that this will be a pretty expensive proposition, but the engine should be pretty much bullet proof by the time I'm done with it.
 

acrdakota

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Do you have any plans to do a monster TT in the future? If not then the billet crank is a total waste, unless you just have $4k burning a hole in your pocket.
 

VENOMAHOLIC

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Anyone here done a stroker engine?

Who sells the best parts and components?

I'm going to have to rebuild my engine anyway because of a damaged piston, so I figure I might as well add a bunch more power while I'm at it.

Any suggestions as to the best parts to use would be appreciated.

Kai

How did the piston get damaged?
 
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Kai SRT10

Kai SRT10

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How did the piston get damaged?

Still trying to figure that out.

Here is the diagnosis:

The #3 journal spun both rod bearings.

The #3 rod bolts failed after being superheated and after repeatedly sending the piston into the cylinder head.

When the rod cap broke off the rod then turned sideways and was sheared off by the #4 rod (which also has a badly spun bearing). The piston skirt broke when the rod was sheared in half and cracked the cylinder liner sleeve.

The crankshaft is ruined.

This is not good.


http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=612956&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
 
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