sweet ride, i sent you these answers to your questions over a week ago. i didnt hear back from you, (my answers are in red)so here is what i pm'd you back:
Is there a larger water cooler available? If so, do you have a manufacturer and part number? The supplied one seems pretty small. Being in AZ, I don't think it can keep up in the summers. My car always runs hot when it's over 100 degrees outside. I have just started looking into this but have not found anything yet.
i manufactor a dual pass aluminum heat exchanger for the Paxton $600
How much coolant does the intercooler system hold? No matter how much I fill it, it always seems low. I have basically had the entire system apart and can't find any leaks.
it holds about a gallon of coolant. You might have a big air bubble in the system, and it needs to be bled.
What exactly does the Paxton computer do? If I understand correctly, it adjusts timing and fuel. Can this box be reprogrammed or does the stock computer need to be reprogrammed to change fuel/spark settings?
in its current configuration from Paxton-the split second controller, it is only controlling the timing. It does turn on the supplemental fuel pumps, but it doesn’t control the fuel injectors pulse, it can be wired to do so, but it takes extensive tuning. You asked about fuel injectors. The stock ones will support up 750hp in the config you have now. You cant run bigger injectors unless you utilize the split second controller to be a stand alone controller and then it requires extensive tuning
What does the FCU do? What do the different settings mean? I see that the stock FCU for my model year is an 8:1 and the 00-02 models use a 6:1. What does that ratio mean and can it be changed or adjusted? What would be the advantages of a higher/lower ratio?
It controls how much fuel pressure the fuel pumps put into the system, it is a boost referenced fuel pressure controller
I have seen and heard about the MSD Boost-A-Pump. Would it be a good idea to add this to my car? It really feels like my car is running out of steam towards the upper part of the RPM range. I don't have the dyno sheet with me right now (I left it at work). The original dyno tune was performed in 1999 in New York after the dealer installed the system. It's showing 589.9 HP around the rev limit and only 561 TQ peaking around 3200 RPM (if I remember correctly). I'm pretty disappointed in those numbers as I think they should be a few percentage points higher. I have yet to get a proper dyno run in as no one around these parts knows a good dyno shop.
You don’t need one with a base Paxton unit, unless you are running headers and open exhaust.
You need to know what your air/fuel ratio is, you might be too rich, that is why it feels sluggish on top
Do you know of anyone that makes a better air intake? The stock one seems small and looks like it is pulling in a lot of hot engine air, being that it is mounted right behind the fan. I am looking into fabricating my own intake that draws air in from in front of the radiator and or the NACA duct.
you would have to make your own
I am also planning to move the fuel pumps and lines from their current location to up under the windshield cowl. It seems like the fuel pumps (as mounted now) would get a lot of heat soak being located right by the transmission. Do you have any other recommendations for the pump mounting?
on the drivers side next to the master cylinder works best
I need to get a new boost gauge as well. The one that was installed isn't working properly. I hope to have that done by the end of the month.
you want to get an autometer
What would you recommend for a proper A/F gauge? Do these gauges tie into the O2 sensors or the computer?
we use the AEM
I recently changed all of my spark plugs to the coldest NGK plug I could find as recommended in a thread on this site. The plugs I pulled all showed a lean burn pattern. The tips were mostly white. The electrodes were all intact but the gap seemed quite large. I can provide pictures if needed. The car has some pinging in the higher RPM range. I am thinking that this may be due to the car being programmed to run on 93 octane fuel, which I can't get around here. The best I can do is 91, unless I go buy racing fuel, which I would rather not do as this is my daily driver.
you cant tell fuel condition on fuel injected street cars, they cut fuel supply off on the decell
Again, thanks for any answers you can provide. Sorting all this stuff out has been quite the process.
Is there a larger water cooler available? If so, do you have a manufacturer and part number? The supplied one seems pretty small. Being in AZ, I don't think it can keep up in the summers. My car always runs hot when it's over 100 degrees outside. I have just started looking into this but have not found anything yet.
i manufactor a dual pass aluminum heat exchanger for the Paxton $600
How much coolant does the intercooler system hold? No matter how much I fill it, it always seems low. I have basically had the entire system apart and can't find any leaks.
it holds about a gallon of coolant. You might have a big air bubble in the system, and it needs to be bled.
What exactly does the Paxton computer do? If I understand correctly, it adjusts timing and fuel. Can this box be reprogrammed or does the stock computer need to be reprogrammed to change fuel/spark settings?
in its current configuration from Paxton-the split second controller, it is only controlling the timing. It does turn on the supplemental fuel pumps, but it doesn’t control the fuel injectors pulse, it can be wired to do so, but it takes extensive tuning. You asked about fuel injectors. The stock ones will support up 750hp in the config you have now. You cant run bigger injectors unless you utilize the split second controller to be a stand alone controller and then it requires extensive tuning
What does the FCU do? What do the different settings mean? I see that the stock FCU for my model year is an 8:1 and the 00-02 models use a 6:1. What does that ratio mean and can it be changed or adjusted? What would be the advantages of a higher/lower ratio?
It controls how much fuel pressure the fuel pumps put into the system, it is a boost referenced fuel pressure controller
I have seen and heard about the MSD Boost-A-Pump. Would it be a good idea to add this to my car? It really feels like my car is running out of steam towards the upper part of the RPM range. I don't have the dyno sheet with me right now (I left it at work). The original dyno tune was performed in 1999 in New York after the dealer installed the system. It's showing 589.9 HP around the rev limit and only 561 TQ peaking around 3200 RPM (if I remember correctly). I'm pretty disappointed in those numbers as I think they should be a few percentage points higher. I have yet to get a proper dyno run in as no one around these parts knows a good dyno shop.
You don’t need one with a base Paxton unit, unless you are running headers and open exhaust.
You need to know what your air/fuel ratio is, you might be too rich, that is why it feels sluggish on top
Do you know of anyone that makes a better air intake? The stock one seems small and looks like it is pulling in a lot of hot engine air, being that it is mounted right behind the fan. I am looking into fabricating my own intake that draws air in from in front of the radiator and or the NACA duct.
you would have to make your own
I am also planning to move the fuel pumps and lines from their current location to up under the windshield cowl. It seems like the fuel pumps (as mounted now) would get a lot of heat soak being located right by the transmission. Do you have any other recommendations for the pump mounting?
on the drivers side next to the master cylinder works best
I need to get a new boost gauge as well. The one that was installed isn't working properly. I hope to have that done by the end of the month.
you want to get an autometer
What would you recommend for a proper A/F gauge? Do these gauges tie into the O2 sensors or the computer?
we use the AEM
I recently changed all of my spark plugs to the coldest NGK plug I could find as recommended in a thread on this site. The plugs I pulled all showed a lean burn pattern. The tips were mostly white. The electrodes were all intact but the gap seemed quite large. I can provide pictures if needed. The car has some pinging in the higher RPM range. I am thinking that this may be due to the car being programmed to run on 93 octane fuel, which I can't get around here. The best I can do is 91, unless I go buy racing fuel, which I would rather not do as this is my daily driver.
you cant tell fuel condition on fuel injected street cars, they cut fuel supply off on the decell
Again, thanks for any answers you can provide. Sorting all this stuff out has been quite the process.
oops, its hot outside, i cant race you today i forgot to fill my water/****...
