Correct Optima Battery for Gen 2

camaroduster

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I have read so many Gen 2 owners talk about cutting down battery post on Optimas to make them fit that I decided to post the correct Optima Red Top Group 78 part number.

Part Number: 78 (8078-109)

Don't let the parts store sell you a generic dual post Optima. Hope this helps, Joe
 

Camfab

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The reason for all the earlier threads is because Optima did not have the newer style battery out until just a couple of years ago. This is also why you read so many negative comments about the Optima battery. If you mod it, it will fail. Mine is the correct part # and has worked great with no issues.
 

WDW MKR

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Don't have one in my Viper, but I've had bad experience with every other red top that I've had. Run them down once and they never want to recover. Is there a direct fit yellow top?
 

Jance GTS

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Don't have one in my Viper, but I've had bad experience with every other red top that I've had. Run them down once and they never want to recover. Is there a direct fit yellow top?

Same here! I have one in my Dodge Ram and it won't keep a charge once it went dead. I wouldn't put one in a Viper for anything! You'll be sorry if it ever fully dies.
 

JonB

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The correct optima battery is......................... NONE OF THE ABOVE


Sears Die-Hard Platinum or Gold please ......[and if you have a 96-97 Gen 2 you still need a Tender for 14+days idle....]
 

V10SpeedLuvr

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I know some people have success with Optima, but do a search and you'll see plenty of complaints from people w/the newer non-modified style. I read on here Optima sold out a few years ago and when they did, their quality and dependability really went in the dumps. I went through 3 warranty replacements in one year. Now have a "no name brand" battery and very happy with it. My Optima was $170, this "cheap" battery (the only other side post battery the store had when they swapped my last Optima) was $70 and its been 10x better.

I was talking to an electrical tech a couple days ago who was working on a Corvette w/an Optima Redtop. I made the comment the Optima was probably causing the no start problem and he was like "OMG, I hate those things, they're horrible"
 

Matt M PA

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A friend of ours runs a small automotive parts store and they too commented that since the Optima brand changed hands...they've gotten lots of returns. They sell Interestate now with much fewer issues.

I think as importantly as getting a good battery is using a battery tender type device.
 

snakebitdave

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I'll second that motion Jon!! That's all I use with tenders on 24/7.

The correct optima battery is......................... NONE OF THE ABOVE


Sears Die-Hard Platinum or Gold please ......[and if you have a 96-97 Gen 2 you still need a Tender for 14+days idle....]
 

coupe

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My red-top works fine in my GTS. But before buying one of those batteries, you MUST check the voltage. MUST BE 12.5 or greater, as once it gets 12.4 or below, they don't seem to fully take a charge again. Yellow top is another story altogether, but they don't have a "side-post only" one that's a direct fit.

I truly feel that these batteries have such a bad reputation on Vipers because Vipers tend to have a more significant current draw than other cars (whether intentional or not). As Jon says, a battery tender is a good idea anyway, no matter the battery.
 

Camfab

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I have no problem with mine, and yes if you kill them they will not hold a proper charge. I'd rather just warranty exchange them if I ever screw up and kill the battery, rather than corrode my battery tray and cables from slinging acid. I suppose if you just putt the car around you can use the acid splashers.
 

AZTVR

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A friend of ours runs a small automotive parts store and they too commented that since the Optima brand changed hands...they've gotten lots of returns. They sell Interestate now with much fewer issues.

Interesting, since they are both made by the same company.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Interesting, since they are both made by the same company.

Pretty common for one company to buy out another and increase profits by cutting cost of the new company until the reputation fades. This board was lit up with Optima recommendations 10 years ago. But Optima was acquired by Johnson Controls (not Interstate) in 2000.
 
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GTS Bruce

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I replace a red top after 6 yrs with a yellow top. The red top was still strong but I could see from a charger that it would not go to full. I have done a stupid thing twice once to each battery and drained them. Both have charged right up and no problems. GTS Bruce
 

DrumrBoy

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Maybe Optima is a lightning rod for negative posts.....but my guess is that although there are VCA members with both good and bad experiences with them (mine has been bad BTW)....the incidence of dissatisfaction with Optima is greater than it is with most ordinary (and less costly) batteries.

Maybe if people weighed in on DieHard Platinums or something there'd be a bunch of "mine failed" stories, but my guess is that that wouldn't happen nearly as much as it has with Optima. Why are we even having this discussion, is there some benefit of an Optima (vs something of quality like a Platinum) that can be weighed against the negatives that makes it worthwhile?
 

OptimaJim

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Hello, I noticed your conversation regarding our batteries and wanted to offer some assistance. Camfab is correct- if you cut the terminals on any battery, it will likely fail in short order (and void the warranty). Many of the “bad” batteries returned to us under warranty now are just deeply-discharged and work fine, when properly-recharged. Unfortunately, many chargers will not recognize or charge any battery that has been discharged below a minimum voltage threshold, usually around 10.5 volts. This is not unique to Optima and has been problematic enough for other manufacturers, that some have modified the language in their warranties, voiding batteries discharged below a certain voltage level. We felt a better option was to create this YouTube video, which explains how to recover these batteries through a parallel charging technique.

WDW MKR & Jance GTS, what caused your previous RedTops to become deeply-discharged and what was the voltage level when you discovered they were discharged?

Johnson Controls did acquire the Optima brand in 2000, but we still manufacture all of our own batteries in our own facility and they are the only batteries produced there. We never re-brand or re-spec our batteries for any of our retail partners and the quality of our batteries has consistently improved under JCI's ownership. Chuck 98 RT/10, I read the boards and I understand folks love conspiracy theories and guys like George Noory make a living giving folks a national stage to present their stories. Just because he gives someone three minutes on air doesn't mean there is any basis of fact behind what they are saying. Optima's parent company has been consistently named one of the most-ethical companies in the world. Their investment in Optima more than ten years ago, their investment in our brand-new production facility, their support of enthusiasts through countless sponsorships and their investment in continual product development has all the makings of a long-term acquisition, not someone cutting costs or looking to make a quick buck off an established name.

Matt M, PA, I would agree with you regarding regular use of a quality battery maintainer or tender in any vehicle that doesn't see regular use. The key for long battery life, regardless of brand, is proper voltage maintenance. When batteries are discharged below 12.4 volts and allowed to sit, sulfation begins to diminish both performance and lifespan.

Coupe makes a very valid point about the key-off load on vehicles. While I occasionally see folks mention specific voltage levels on message boards, I almost never see anyone post their measured parasitic draw. I don't know what the typical key-off load for a Viper is, but I have read comments on Corvette boards indicating Corvette engineers are telling people the parasitic draw in their vehicles can discharge in less than a month. If anyone has any questions about our batteries, I'll do my best to answer them.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
 

Jance GTS

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WDW MKR & Jance GTS, what caused your previous RedTops to become deeply-discharged and what was the voltage level when you discovered they were discharged?
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries

Thanks for the reply! I posted on your facebook page a few weeks ago about my issues. I had a family emergency this year and had to leave my truck behind and it sat for a couple of months. Once I finally got it started again the battery wouldn't start the next day. I had to replace the alternator and then got the truck running but it still won't last overnight. After a full charge it reads 12+ volts (i think) and now it won't turn over and all it does is clicks. The sticker on the battery says 4/09 so it's probably time to replace it?

I have a billet battery box for it, since it's a mild show truck but I might just have to come up with something else. Any ideas on getting it to work again?
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Conspiracy theory? Business theory, not conspiracy theory. And I wouldn't even say it is necessarily unethical. Just the way some businesses increase profit and raise capital, not all, but some. Maybe it isn't the case with Johnson Controls but something definitely happened to Optima after JC acquired them. The Viper Club was a HUGE Optima supporter so I bought one. Because there wasn't a side post I had to modify my battery tray for it to fit. I never was satisfied with the performance and switched back to Sears.

I'll be needing to replace batteries in both of my Vipers within the next year. If Optima has remedied whatever the issue was and if they now offer a battery that will actually fit in a GenII without tray modification I might give it another try. Maybe. Does Optima or Johnson Controls sponsor any racing? I tend to support those who support my sport.

BTW I had to google George Noory.
 

coupe

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Thanks for the support Jim. I have a Gen II GTS. When I picked it up, it was killing the freshly installed Sears Diehard Platinum (a re-badged Odyssey) within a couple days... I had to disconnect it to keep it alive. Others told me "you need a battery tender" but I had difficulty believing that these cars were such excessive battery killers, so I checked parasitic current draw, as you mentioned. I certainly didn't blame the battery, as it charged perfectly on my charger each time.

Turns out, there was .140 amps (140 milliamps) being drawn with nothing apparently on; no lights, no door open, nothing that I could notice. 140 mA is equivalent to a small light bulb, commonly found illuminating a license plate., which would certainly drain a battery down in a few days. Through alot of wire-chasing and studying of the schematics in the service book, I found that there was a small relay staying "energized" in the alarm control module. A faulty (corroded?) hood switch was telling it to stay active and not allowing the car to relax. Once I remedied this circuit, the current draw went down to around .002-.003 amps, which is negligible to a battery.

Not sure what kind of parasitic loss is present on the newer cars, but the Gen II is supposed to be negligible when everything is working properly. I suspect those not working properly are the main cause of people having "battery" issues.
 

Jerry Scott[CO]

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I have an Optima 75-35-720 battery in my 97 GTS that was given to me by an Optima engineer, (Randy Hively) here at the manufacturing plant in Denver, back in 1998. It is still working just fine and I charge it with a Deltran Battery Tender Plus once every three months. This has been enough charging to keep it from going bad, and it still starts the car with no problem. It is now 14 years old. So, why can't the new batteries last this long?
Jerry
 

OptimaJim

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Jance GTS, if your battery is discharged to the point where it needs to be jump-started, it is a good idea to fully-charge the battery with a battery charger as soon as possible. Most alternators are designed to maintain batteries, not recharge deeply-discharged batteries. Asking an alternator to perform that task can lead to a cycle of dead batteries and jump-starts, until either the battery or alternator fails. At 12.0 volts, most batteries are more than 50% discharged. Our RedTops are fully-charged at about 12.6-12.8 volts and our YellowTops are fully-charged at about 13.0-13.2 volts. Can you get your battery to fully-charge and hold close to it's maximum voltage for 12-24 hours afterwards, if it isn't connected to your vehicle? If it holds voltage when disconnected, it should be fine. If it doesn't, it probably does need to be replaced and from what you've posted, it sounds like it is still under warranty. If it holds voltage when disconnected from your vehicle, but loses voltage when connected, you may have a parasitic draw that is discharging your battery.

Chuck 98 RT/10, Optima sends me out on crazy roadtrips every once in a while, so I usually end up catching George Noory's show somewhere along my journeys. If nothing else, his topics help keep me alert while I'm driving. While I understand some businesses operate in the manner you described, that simply is not JCI's way of doing things, nor Optima's. Something has happened to Optima since we were acquired by JCI- steady improvement in the quality of our products. However, in that same time period, the electrical demands on vehicles also increased significantly, from gps navigation to satellite radio, ipods, DVD players and all sorts of other electrical accessories that were rare in 2000, if they existed at all. Now, some OEMs in Europe are shipping cars to the states with solar chargers, because the electrical system on the car would discharge the batteries during the time it took to cross the Atlantic, when that never used to be a concern.

As for racing, I don't know what particular form you favor, but short of the big NASCAR series, we are involved in some way, shape or form in just about everything else. I know I'm leaving a bunch of stuff off this list, but excluding monster-related sponsorships, like the MTRA, teams like Raminator & Crushstation, numerous off-road racing teams like Demeny Racing, HellFab Racing, Andrea Tomba Scalia, Wild Gator (tough truck), Murphy's Law motorsports (KOTH), Les Figueora (KOTH) and all kinds of marine sponsorships (hydroplane racers, tons of anglers and series, like the Offshore Powerboat Association) and other truck-based series like the National Hot Rod Diesel Association, we sponsor open road racing events, like Sandhills & Silver State, land speed race teams (Big Bad Nitro Daddy), the One Lap of America Camaro, the US Touring Car Championship (we're the official battery of World Challenge), sports car drivers and teams like Shea Holbrook, Willie Phee, Tiger Racing, and even short track or 1/8-mile mom & pop race teams like RF Racing, Russell Morseman, Phil Veldheer (IHRA world record holder) & Scigliuto Family Racing all the way up to Kalitta Motorsports in the NHRA (we're also an NHRA contingency sponsor).

Like I said, that is a very partial list, just going from memory and doesn't include Goodguys, any of the street car events or our Ultimate Street Car Invitational, but It's safe to say we sponsor enough racing, that we have specific people who work just on our sponsorships. We do have a Group 78 RedTop, which is a sidepost-only battery, that we list as an exact-fit replacement for '98 Vipers, but any battery that has top posts cut, removed or modified in similar fashion for fitment is likely to have issues.

coupe, your numbers are right on target and even if someone were to have a draw that was half of what you were experiencing, long periods of infrequent or non-use will have a similar result. For example, even if a Viper had a 70-milliamp load on our Group 78 RedTop (50 amps), it would be discharging that battery at a rate of 1.68 amps (.070 x 24 hours) per day. This means the battery will be dead (0% state of charge) in just under a month (50/1.68) without any charge going to the battery. These calculations assume the battery is fully-charged when it is parked (most are not) and does not take into consideration climate, which can shorten (heat) or lengthen (moderate temps) these timeframes. There are aftermarket car alarms that can draw more current than that by themselves. That makes a quality battery maintainer or tender and excellent investment for any vehicle that doesn't see regular use. Even a quick disconnect on a fully-charged battery is a more viable option than hoping the alternator will be able to keep pace with a vehicle's energy consumption.

Jerry, our new batteries can last 14 years, they just need 14 years to do it. I'm glad to hear your 14-year old RedTop is still working well for you. We're always on the lookout for stories like your's for our Wall of Power display, which tours the country at NHRA and Goodguys events. I would encourage you to submit your story to us.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Chuck 98 RT/10, the electrical demands on vehicles also increased significantly, from gps navigation to satellite radio, ipods, DVD players and all sorts of other electrical accessories that were rare in 2000, if they existed at all.

I realize you don't know me but anyone here will tell you my Vipers don't have any of that candyass electronic crap on them. Even the radio hasn't been used in years. Angus Young playing a lovely rendition of "For Those About to Rock" followed up with "Hells Bells" ended the use of that device about 8 years ago. Come to think of it, maybe that's what happened to the Optima. If so, it might be worth having the QA department test for rock compatibility. Just think of the promotional opportunities - Optima Batteries - AC/DC Tested and Approved.

Anyway, you guys sponsor racing. I'll give you another try.
 

aloushi

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you guys lost me after reading 1/2 book but either way I side with Chuck "whatever he said +1" ;)
 

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