Damn passenger side door!

[1.8t]

Talk about frustration, I have been adjusting this thing so it won't rub for the past 2 days and it is just not having it. I have been using the towel technique and by the time I have the spot that is rubbing(shoulder area on the door panel, tree fastener is brand new and installed correctly) adjusted enough so that it won't rub, the lower latch pulls the door back down so that it runs again. So, I threw some spacers on the lower latch, but now the actual door latch isn't centering just right so I have been messing around with trying to get it in the correct position. This seems about impossible as I have adjust that damn thing to every position known to man and the door just won't close without effort like my drivers side door. Oh yea, I forgot to mention that when I roll my widow up, it causes some interference again with the door panel, so now I have been repeating everything with the window up and have been running into the same issues.

Any help is appreciated. I have literally adjusted every damn part of the door and it just won't take the adjustments to where the door can literally "fall" shut like my drivers side. I have to give it some decent force and an equal amount to open it as well.

This post is made from my phone and I am exhausted, so disregard any spelling errors or "***" sentences that may have made their way in there via wonderful autocorrect.

 

[dave6666]

I tried the towel method. It was worthless; would not suggest that to anyone. I used a floor jack under the door to get the desired lift. Use a tape measure to the floor to measure the lift, keeping in mind the hinge likely has some slop i.e. if you lift the door 1/8" and the hinges have 1/4" of slop, well... you need to lift it 3/8" to get the 1/8". Just play with it. I got mine a lot better. Not perfect, but a lot better.

 

[1.8t]

Problem solved. The problem wasn't the position of the middle latch, it was the fact that it needed about an 1/8th inch spacer. The door was catching right at the end of the bar and binding on it.

So, in a nutshell, this door needed the towel method and spacers for both the bottom "guide" latch and the elbow/shoulder height door latch. It now open/shuts completely without rubbing and while it still takes some force to close(not even half as much as before), it opens 100% effortlessly.

 

[VYPR BYT 94]

Glad you got it.
Also, thanks for posting "how" you resolved it. Too often people start a thread and don't give it closure after they get it resolved... this might help somebody in the future - ya never know.

 

[-FROG-]

Glad you got it.
Also, thanks for posting "how" you resolved it. Too often people start a thread and don't give it closure after they get it resolved... this might help somebody in the future - ya never know.

Agreed.......

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

I posted this years ago, but another common place for the door to rub is the weatherstrip bulb seal is at the bottom rear corner, as it'll damage the weatherstrip over time as the carpet on the door panel rubs over it when opening and closing the door, which can be expensive to replace.

You can pull the seal off the flange and trim the flange down (use an angle grinder or whatever works, a drill with a grinding bit, etc.. ), take off about 1/4" shown by the orange trim line.

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Cheers,
Mike

 

[Matt M PA]

We too made spacers to bring up that "loop" at the "floor" part of the jam.