Ken,
The first time, it's a little bit of work. The lower rear mounting bolt for the coolant tank is a pain to get to. Removing the blower housing first helps somewhat. The coolant header tank will need to be tied off to the engine somehow because it's heavy. I use either a string or a long tie-wrap.
When you remove the washer fluid reservoir, take the hose loose from the ****** near the wiper motor, then stick the free end back into the reservoir top. Otherwise, you'll leave a trail of washer fluid all over the car and the garage floor.
Some of the nylon push fasteners that hold your wiring harnesses to the driver's side well can stay if you think it through. Tie-wraps can be pushed through the holes, around the factory retainers, back out the holes again and zipped down tight.
You need to drill off the rivet heads with a 3/8" or 7/16" bit. Be careful when they come loose that they don't walk across the fiberglass and gouge it. Next, use a 1/8" drift punch and drive the pin out of the center of the rivet shank. Finally, drive the shank into the frame rail with a 1/4" drift punch. The remnants will rattle around in the frame rail and finally collect at the base of the downtube on each side. Use a hefty screwdriver to open the bottom up just a bit to let them escape.
When you're done with your detailing, I strongly recommend using the type of nylon reuseable rivets that you see on the battery box cover in the rear fenderwell. These are available in quantity at most any auto parts store. That way, you can remove the fender wells quickly, with a minimum of fuss in the future.
Seems like I have mine out once or twice a year.