Differential Fluid Replacement

JeffTheViperMan

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It might make you all happy to know that upon acquiring my 2000 GTS, I immediately sat and read through the owners manual, cover-to-cover.

I noticed towards the back cover that Dodge recommends replacing the differential oil every 22,500 miles for REGULAR usage - even more frequently for severe usage.

I'm curious as to why the Viper needs it's oil replaced so often when my father's 2005 Grand Cherokee's differential oil is good for 100,000 miles.

In addition, I'm curious if anyone has researched or studied the possibility of transferring to a synthetic oil (such as Mobil 1) and extended the replacement intervals. Now, my dealer informs me that the factory oil is in fact already a synthetic, so I don't know if that's even a possibility.

Since I acquired my Viper at just a touch under 23,000 miles, I have schedule this service at my dealership next time I have the Viper home. I was quoted at right around $100 dollars. I'd prefer to do it myself, but it should really be done on a lift, which I no longer have access to.

Jeff
 

Catwood

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the differential is not in the airflow and runs hotter than a typical car.
 
OP
OP
J

JeffTheViperMan

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You don't need a lift, but I use about $150 worth of Mityvac equipment to do it. $100 isn't that bad of a deal.

I know it's not. I was actually surprised it wasn't higher.

How can you do it without a lift? If I just jack up the rear of the car then the fluid would shift inside the unit. I understand there's no "pumpkin cover" - it has to be siphoned (sp?) out...

Jeff
 

Catwood

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drill a hole in the bottom, tap it, then put in a pipe plug. It's real easy. Do a search for instructions and location on the site.

I formed and used a copper tube for refill which I saved. It allowed for filling from the side of the car.

If you put the car on 4 jackstands it will be (can be) level. It's an easy job.
 

dave6666

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I know it's not. I was actually surprised it wasn't higher.

How can you do it without a lift? If I just jack up the rear of the car then the fluid would shift inside the unit. I understand there's no "pumpkin cover" - it has to be siphoned (sp?) out...

Jeff

The siphon pump does not care if the car is tilted, but of course the precise fill level depends on the vehicle being level. Just let your jack back down to normal ride height while filling, and then lift it back up to put the wheel back on when done.

Add the friction modifier first, then the oil till it runs out.
 

Copernicus

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The siphon pump does not care if the car is tilted, but of course the precise fill level depends on the vehicle being level. Just let your jack back down to normal ride height while filling, and then lift it back up to put the wheel back on when done.

Add the friction modifier first, then the oil till it runs out.

Is there a siphon pump you recommend? I bought two to do this job and ended up trashing both of them last year. They did not have enough suction power to pull any fluid out. I ended up taking a clear length of hose and sucking on the end of it and let gravity do the rest.

I need to change my trans fluid this year so if you anyone has recommendations for a pump for that, I'm all ears too.


Edit: This is the one I ended up trashing Mity Vac Fluid Transfer Pump - Model 7240 at Sears.com

Is the bigger one better?
 

dave6666

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Is there a siphon pump you recommend? I bought two to do this job and ended up trashing both of them last year. They did not have enough suction power to pull any fluid out. I ended up taking a clear length of hose and sucking on the end of it and let gravity do the rest.

I need to change my trans fluid this year so if you anyone has recommendations for a pump for that, I'm all ears too.

Here is the equipment I bought:

MV7300 PneumatiVac
04050 Silverline Plus Automotive Kit
MVA6005 16 oz Fluid Reservoir Kit

Go to Mityvac dot com to check it out.

The MV7300 is a pneumatic powered vacuum pump with a large reservoir. I normally use it for supplying vacuum, but not always as the catch container. Sometimes I put the MVA6005 16oz container in between there so if I want to get a better idea of how much fluid I'm sucking out, what it looks like, etc.

Then to pump fluid in to things like the diff and tranny, I use the 04050 hand pump (does pressure and vacuum) and the 16oz container again to hold the fluid. You use the pressure from the pump to push the fluid from the container.

The tranny is easy to drain - it has a drain plug. The fill plug however is on the side and I had to pump the fluid in because of course that thing is wedged tightly in the tunnel.
 

Copernicus

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Here is the equipment I bought:

MV7300 PneumatiVac
04050 Silverline Plus Automotive Kit
MVA6005 16 oz Fluid Reservoir Kit

Go to Mityvac dot com to check it out.

The MV7300 is a pneumatic powered vacuum pump with a large reservoir. I normally use it for supplying vacuum, but not always as the catch container. Sometimes I put the MVA6005 16oz container in between there so if I want to get a better idea of how much fluid I'm sucking out, what it looks like, etc.

Then to pump fluid in to things like the diff and tranny, I use the 04050 hand pump (does pressure and vacuum) and the 16oz container again to hold the fluid. You use the pressure from the pump to push the fluid from the container.

The tranny is easy to drain - it has a drain plug. The fill plug however is on the side and I had to pump the fluid in because of course that thing is wedged tightly in the tunnel.

Great, thanks. I'll check those out.
 

ViperTony

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I used this POS from Motive...it's inards collapsed and broke apart when I tried to **** out the diff oil a couple of years ago. Avoid it and spend a few more $$$ on something that works, saves you valuable time and headaches.
 

luc

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I'm a little lazy so, what I have been using for years is a $10 universal windshield washer pump from Kragen.
The Pump run on 12V and has 1 inlet and 1 outlet and you just buy some vaccum tubing to put on the in and out ports.
To **** the fluid from the differential you put the "in" tubing in the differential and the dirty fluid will come out of the "out" port and you reverse to put new fluid in.
Due to the gear oil viscosity, it is better to drive the car before to warm up the fluid and micro-wave the new fluid bottles for a few seconds.
Luc 00GTS
 

Tom F&L GoR

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You can remove the bottom center bolt of the rear cover, drill through the bottom of the hole into the interior, allow the fluid to drain, and then use silicone glue or a sealing washer when you replace the bolt. The drill size has to be smaller diameter than the threaded hole, so with the thick fluid it won't drain quickly, but you can let it sit and come back. It avoids the "oops" risk of a drilling and tapping a new hole.
 

dave6666

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You can remove the bottom center bolt of the rear cover, drill through the bottom of the hole into the interior, allow the fluid to drain, and then use silicone glue or a sealing washer when you replace the bolt. The drill size has to be smaller diameter than the threaded hole, so with the thick fluid it won't drain quickly, but you can let it sit and come back. It avoids the "oops" risk of a drilling and tapping a new hole.

From Tom's book of magic tricks.

My mentor.

:notworthy:

6 more................
 

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