mike & juli
Enthusiast
OH REAL nice Dave...almost but NOT quite 6666 posts???? Your work of course is impeccable, many can learn from you here...WHEN YA POSTING your 6666th???? I await.....jules
Diffuser and splitter build pics
- Thread starter dave6666
- Start date
mike & juli
Enthusiast
Yeah, but the huge BUILD-UP is DAVE's 6666th!!!! He's playing...and teasing!
Thanks Ted~! Queen of SOMEthing anyway~!!!
~juliN2 Vipers
Enthusiast
As Queen of the posts, Juli, the least you can do is post a pic of yourself so we can see what you look like!
mike & juli
Enthusiast
Ah, that again would be hijacking DAVE6666's thread...I don't wanna take away from him...you can see pics of Mike & myself under the NY/CT forum events, we're on there variously...OR see the caricature of ourselves on my profile page!
~juliN2 Vipers
Enthusiast
Lots of pics Juli, which one is you?
dave6666
Enthusiast
Yours may actually be more aero functional. I do not know the answer to that at all, but as mentioned I wanted mine to be pretty first and functional second.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Check out my poll on the diffuser blade design.
Comment here, vote there!
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/621432-poll-my-rear-diffuser-blade-profile.html
STRAIGHT
ANGLED
Comment here, vote there!
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/621432-poll-my-rear-diffuser-blade-profile.html
STRAIGHT
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ANGLED
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mike & juli
Enthusiast
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The 'unofficial' HIJACK emoticom~!!! My pic does not belong here...I'm sure if you look HARD enough, you can find me and Mike!!!! DAVE: Voted in your angled diffuser poll...good job again as always, cowboy! ~jules
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
If its the race look your going for I reckon it looks best STRAIGHT IMO.
Reds Fastest 
** ** ** MERRY CHRISTMAS
Reds Fastest
** ** ** MERRY CHRISTMAS dave6666
Enthusiast
Some slight progress in this 30 degree cloudy weather. Or as us Texans call it, "near white out!"
For the front splitter I bought the 4 x 8 x 1/2" sheet of structural fiberglass for $303 that I had been eying. Worth $900 but they were apparently tired of moving it all the time, and an awesome deal for me. Cut to 2 x 6's plus a single 2 x 4 scrap. The 2 x 6 is a few inches bigger than what it will take to build the front splitter, and I'll also have a spare. Anticipated final weight to be a little under 20 pounds using that material. I'll pin that down at the end.
For the rear diffuser blades the aluminum is 2 x 4 x 0.080 5052 for $32 at Metal Supermarkets. I think I can get like 20 or 30 blades from this sheet depending on how careful I am with the layout.
I took the rear diffuser plate back off the car to lay it out for the blade locations, do the finish work on it etc.
After looking at some good web shots of SRT rear ends with factory diffusers, as well as several Gen2's that have added the SRT blades, the wide gap between the middle 2 blades seems to be the thing. So I imported an SRT pic into my CAD program and determined that the aspect ratio of the blade spacing should be X - 2X - X.
On my 36" wide plate X = 9".
The blades of course will have a bent flange at the top for mounting, hence the parallel lines showing that flange location to be.
For the front splitter I bought the 4 x 8 x 1/2" sheet of structural fiberglass for $303 that I had been eying. Worth $900 but they were apparently tired of moving it all the time, and an awesome deal for me. Cut to 2 x 6's plus a single 2 x 4 scrap. The 2 x 6 is a few inches bigger than what it will take to build the front splitter, and I'll also have a spare. Anticipated final weight to be a little under 20 pounds using that material. I'll pin that down at the end.
For the rear diffuser blades the aluminum is 2 x 4 x 0.080 5052 for $32 at Metal Supermarkets. I think I can get like 20 or 30 blades from this sheet depending on how careful I am with the layout.
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I took the rear diffuser plate back off the car to lay it out for the blade locations, do the finish work on it etc.
After looking at some good web shots of SRT rear ends with factory diffusers, as well as several Gen2's that have added the SRT blades, the wide gap between the middle 2 blades seems to be the thing. So I imported an SRT pic into my CAD program and determined that the aspect ratio of the blade spacing should be X - 2X - X.
On my 36" wide plate X = 9".
The blades of course will have a bent flange at the top for mounting, hence the parallel lines showing that flange location to be.
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Dave's Big Brakes
Enthusiast
Hey Dave
Here's what Big Brake Dave likes
Merry Xmas I see Santa Left a load on your doorstep
Big Brake Dave
Here's what Big Brake Dave likes
Merry Xmas
I see Santa Left a load on your doorstepBig Brake Dave
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dave6666
Enthusiast
Another slow but meaningful day of progress.
Laid out the rear blades on the 0.080 sheet, got the saw busy, and have a couple bent. Previous estimates on blade quantity from that sheet are now confirmed at (14) from the 2 x 4 sheet of metal. 3-1/2 sets. I like spares...
I hope to have everything back on the car for an unpowdercoated photo session maybe tomorrow or Thursday. These chocolate martinis are really slowing me down.
On a related note, I've been thinking about spicing the plain black diffuser up a bit. On the 2 outer blades, and then the big center section of the plate, I'm thinking about doing some logo work in a black chrome vinyl I looked at a few days ago. Kind of a ghost effect, as it really does disappear into the solid black. But you can still see it, especially at night with headlights on it.
So please, let's start some neon on the frame rail jokes now.
Laid out the rear blades on the 0.080 sheet, got the saw busy, and have a couple bent. Previous estimates on blade quantity from that sheet are now confirmed at (14) from the 2 x 4 sheet of metal. 3-1/2 sets. I like spares...
I hope to have everything back on the car for an unpowdercoated photo session maybe tomorrow or Thursday. These chocolate martinis are really slowing me down.
On a related note, I've been thinking about spicing the plain black diffuser up a bit. On the 2 outer blades, and then the big center section of the plate, I'm thinking about doing some logo work in a black chrome vinyl I looked at a few days ago. Kind of a ghost effect, as it really does disappear into the solid black. But you can still see it, especially at night with headlights on it.
So please, let's start some neon on the frame rail jokes now.
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BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
So I guess you are going with the straight-cut on the blades?
if the blades are flat across the top, how will the diffuser conform to the underside of the bumper? or is the diffuser flat?
I thought since you bent it up at the back that it has some curvature to it
if the blades are flat across the top, how will the diffuser conform to the underside of the bumper? or is the diffuser flat?
I thought since you bent it up at the back that it has some curvature to it
dave6666
Enthusiast
Oh Great Bottlefed... You have not been paying attention!!!
The 3/16" thick aluminum plate that is mounted under the rear bumper cover stays flat. The slight curvature - and I do mean slight - of the rear bumper cover is eliminated by first me removing the rear muffler heat shield, and then using the rear exhaust hanger bracket to fabricate the mount to **** the aluminum plate up enough to flatten the bumper under there.
The rear heat shield helps the bumper cover hold it's factory shape underneath. The diffuser plate squashes it about 1/2" to make it conform. This new shape of the bumper cover is not noticeable as the new shape under there is now called "rear diffuser."
As far as the blade profile goes - straight versus angled - I'm going to put it together with the blades straight and do some evaluation. Look at it on the car, check it on the driveway slope etc. It is the profile I personally prefer, and did get 19.6% of the vote last time I checked. Which is well beyond the approval rating I need!
BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
I guess I missed the pics where you removed the heat shield.
So you have bolted a stiff piece of plate under there causing the bumper to flatten out. I get it now. Obviously this will not work if you still have rear-exit exhaust. Will it work for original side-exit, or is this for your application only?
So you have bolted a stiff piece of plate under there causing the bumper to flatten out. I get it now. Obviously this will not work if you still have rear-exit exhaust. Will it work for original side-exit, or is this for your application only?
dave6666
Enthusiast
If you still have rear exit exhaust, you likely would not want to flatten the rear underneath. The entire reason I am doing that is to thoroughly cover the unused exhaust hole.
What I am making could easily be adapted to rear exhaust cars. Just cut the square hole in the plate. And since you're not trying to cover that hole anymore, no need to **** it up flat like I am. You would just use the existing bumper cover screws exclusively to attach the diffuser, like I think most of the aftermarket diffusers mount.
What I am making could easily be adapted to rear exhaust cars. Just cut the square hole in the plate. And since you're not trying to cover that hole anymore, no need to **** it up flat like I am. You would just use the existing bumper cover screws exclusively to attach the diffuser, like I think most of the aftermarket diffusers mount.
Batboy
Enthusiast
Just to show another example. I believe these are the autoform carbon fiber with aluminum backing. I got these used and painted for $400 ($200 cost and $200 to paint). This includes a front spoiler too that I have not installed due to clearance issues. Anyway, just curious if you considered buying some instead of making some? Sure enough you have the talent, which I do not, but I got mine installed in 2 hours. Also, as compared to mine, your line cut is very similar unlike the ones BOTTLEFED showed.
Hey Dave, no the other one with the Big Brakes, where can I get one of those diffusers?
Hey Dave, no the other one with the Big Brakes, where can I get one of those diffusers?
dave6666
Enthusiast
Side Splitters...
Your cost - $400
My cost - $150
Yours mount - using the 4 factory holes?
Mine mount - using those plus 20 additional fasteners. As strong as the body.
Yours have - incorrect profile for Autoform side exhaust sills.
Mine have - correct profile.
Yours have - no holes to match my custom sill venting.
Mine have - the holes to match.
Make me stop...
Big Brakes Dave...
All those parts came in yesterday so that term may not even be clear any more.
Batboy
Enthusiast
Roger that! I do believe I used more than 4 mounts as I drilled several new ones (no holes on the splitters had to make my own). My cost includes the front splitter. But you're correct sir I don't have the vent holes. You would have had to drill those. I'm not sure about the profile since I don't have side exhaust, but likely you are correct as these were made for the GTS, I believe.
I was just curious if you considered buying some. I suspect they are more expensive than what I paid anyway since I got mine used. Either way I like the look.
I was just curious if you considered buying some. I suspect they are more expensive than what I paid anyway since I got mine used. Either way I like the look.
doctorbob
Enthusiast
Great post and demonstration of skills.....I noticed yesterday that you were approaching a billion posts.
mike & juli
Enthusiast
Yes, don't you think it's about time it showed the TRUE figure?!!!
That sounds about right to me! 
~julesdave6666
Enthusiast
Well my side splitters are made for the GTS too. A GTS with side exhaust...
Yeah, the Autoform side exhaust sills are not flat on the bottom so mine have some slight bends as previously illustrated. You also have to fit around the exhaust outlet.
If you took out all the extra work for that, and also eliminated the vent holes on the bottom, they are really nothing more than an afternoon project to make.
Another note for those that have said they only look good as a complete aero package. I have had the side splitter on by themselves now for a week or so, and I don't agree with that opinion. They look great all alone. Of course mine are not big honkers so maybe that helps.
The look they give the car is killer. As they extend horizontally out from the frame rail, they show just how low the car really is. The sill alone rolls up toward the door and you have to step so far back to get that perspective that the dimensions are lost.
Y2K5SRT
Enthusiast
Strange, he seems to be ignoring all references to his incredible post count...
No worries Dave, I have been keeping track for you and will even edit out all the fluff before this thread is permanently recorded in the Illustrated Upgrades. It is the least I can do for somebody with such big
numbers.
No worries Dave, I have been keeping track for you and will even edit out all the fluff before this thread is permanently recorded in the Illustrated Upgrades. It is the least I can do for somebody with such big
numbers.
dave6666
Enthusiast
A bunch of new pics...
-> A few of finishing up the rear diffuser
-> A few of it assembled and done on the workbench
-> The rear diffuser on the car
It was the conclusion of myself and my semi car guy neighbor that the diffuser just DOES NOT work in shiny silver, AKA bare aluminum. It has to be black.
I was ready to take it off and start trimming it when after a few iced teas I decided that before anything else it would be powder coated and then further evaluation.
Comments welcome and encouraged.
-> A few of finishing up the rear diffuser
-> A few of it assembled and done on the workbench
-> The rear diffuser on the car
It was the conclusion of myself and my semi car guy neighbor that the diffuser just DOES NOT work in shiny silver, AKA bare aluminum. It has to be black.
I was ready to take it off and start trimming it when after a few iced teas I decided that before anything else it would be powder coated and then further evaluation.
Comments welcome and encouraged.
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Looks Great...
I see by your last couple of photos you may have encountered the issue of not only scraping the front splitter but the rear diffuser too.
FWIW... I have found that the 45 degree approach to curbs works best. I just make sure to keep the 45 deg. angle until the entire car (front and rear) clear the curb. Then straighten out.
I have seen similar quality diffusers for sale costing 3,4 or more times what you have invested. Nice job.
I see by your last couple of photos you may have encountered the issue of not only scraping the front splitter but the rear diffuser too.
FWIW... I have found that the 45 degree approach to curbs works best. I just make sure to keep the 45 deg. angle until the entire car (front and rear) clear the curb. Then straighten out.
I have seen similar quality diffusers for sale costing 3,4 or more times what you have invested. Nice job.
