redtanrt10
Enthusiast
There's a number of threads, posts and comments regarding using an oil "Catch Can" on the GEN IV Viper. ViperX, our long time and outgoing SCA President, showed me how he did his. I copied Dan's design with a few extra touches. My neighbor and I put it on my Viper a few months ago and I took a number of pictures. I've been reluctant to post as I didn't want to answer technical questions, and, I didn't want to be in conflict with supporting vendors who make and sell them. After some prodding I decided to put it on the site. ViperX is the designer, if your's or someone else's is better, great. BTW, Dan at DC has told me this is a fine set up. Also, it is for "off-road" use only.
Here are the parts we used, most bought at Jeg's (fittings are -10AN) , we also purchased 2 plugs, zip ties, screws, foam tape at any auto parts store, a fitting for the can bottom from the hardware store and a aluminum bracket we fabricated and painted.
Total cost was less than $200 in parts, can is $80.00;
Jeg's catch can with breather;
Here are most of the other parts;
- Jeg's Catch Can with breather, #555-52200
- #10 Push Loc Hose, 5' (red, you pick the color)
- #10 90 degree Push Loc Hose End
- #10 Straight Push Loc Hose End
- #10 Radiused Pump Fitting
- (2), #12 Russell (from Jeg's) Tube Seat Hose Ends (Optional, you can zip tie instead)
Plus you need,
- (2) Hole plugs, (buy a variety pack at you local auto parts store)
- (2) Zip ties
- Aluminum strip, 14" long, 1/4" thick, 1" wide or slightly wider
- (2) screws to mount aluminum strip to upper cross member
- Foam tape
- New bottom fitting for catch can (remove the stock drain)
Here is the aluminum bracket;
Here is the new plug we used on the bottom of the can (original drain removed);
Fairly straightfoward to put together, here's a picture of the can installed so you can see the basic connections and how much and where to put the hose;
Disconnect;
- PCV hose from valve cover that runs to the intake manifold.
- Disconnect the other hose (drivers side) from the valve cover to the airbox
You need to remove, then take apart the PCV valve, (take your time), you will re-use it without the guts;
- Connect the hose end to the installed hollow PCV valve, use the Tube Seal Ends or you can Zip-tie the hose. (Give yourself an extra 6" of hose back to the can).
- Place a "plug" in the intake manifold comention, zip tie the plug;
- Connect hose to the drivers side valve cover, use the Radiused fitting for the valve cover, add a Tube Seal End or just zip tie the hose. (Give yourself 6" or more of extra hose back to the can);
- Use a plug on the airbox, zip tie the plug;
- The bracket and fitting location of the can is the only part that takes time. You can see how I located mine.
- You can also see how to postion the can to the bracket.
- Either now or later; attach the 90 degree can fitting (left to the PVC) and the straight fitting (right, to the drivers side) Use the tube seal ends or zip tie;
- Bend the aluminum strip as square as possible (I had a shop do mine as the first one had some bowing). Clearance is very tight, squaring is really needed. Measure across the top, mine may be 1/4 to small across the top, length in the picture is correct.
- The can has a slide mounting sytem, you'll need to do trial and error fitting over and over to get it right.
Here's a picture of the mounting bolts from the aluminum strip to the can, you've got to make sure you don't interfere with the moving belts, hoses below etc;
- To provide more clearance below, take off the drain valve on the bottom and replace with a cap as shown above. (You'd never want to drain oil that way anyhow),
- Here's another picture installed to give you a sense of height, if you mount too high the hood will rub;
- Once you've found ther best location, drill 2 holes in the upper part of the aluminum and attach to the cross brace.
- Use some Gorilla tape or foam tape as extra protection on the bar near the can base;
With this set up you'll find that only a minimum amount of oil gets into the can, most of the fluid you'll see is oil-water vapor.
To check oil level in the can, remove the breather on top and use a zip tie as a dip stick.
Here are the parts we used, most bought at Jeg's (fittings are -10AN) , we also purchased 2 plugs, zip ties, screws, foam tape at any auto parts store, a fitting for the can bottom from the hardware store and a aluminum bracket we fabricated and painted.
Total cost was less than $200 in parts, can is $80.00;
Jeg's catch can with breather;
Here are most of the other parts;
- Jeg's Catch Can with breather, #555-52200
- #10 Push Loc Hose, 5' (red, you pick the color)
- #10 90 degree Push Loc Hose End
- #10 Straight Push Loc Hose End
- #10 Radiused Pump Fitting
- (2), #12 Russell (from Jeg's) Tube Seat Hose Ends (Optional, you can zip tie instead)
Plus you need,
- (2) Hole plugs, (buy a variety pack at you local auto parts store)
- (2) Zip ties
- Aluminum strip, 14" long, 1/4" thick, 1" wide or slightly wider
- (2) screws to mount aluminum strip to upper cross member
- Foam tape
- New bottom fitting for catch can (remove the stock drain)
Here is the aluminum bracket;
Here is the new plug we used on the bottom of the can (original drain removed);
Fairly straightfoward to put together, here's a picture of the can installed so you can see the basic connections and how much and where to put the hose;
Disconnect;
- PCV hose from valve cover that runs to the intake manifold.
- Disconnect the other hose (drivers side) from the valve cover to the airbox
You need to remove, then take apart the PCV valve, (take your time), you will re-use it without the guts;
- Connect the hose end to the installed hollow PCV valve, use the Tube Seal Ends or you can Zip-tie the hose. (Give yourself an extra 6" of hose back to the can).
- Place a "plug" in the intake manifold comention, zip tie the plug;
- Connect hose to the drivers side valve cover, use the Radiused fitting for the valve cover, add a Tube Seal End or just zip tie the hose. (Give yourself 6" or more of extra hose back to the can);
- Use a plug on the airbox, zip tie the plug;
- The bracket and fitting location of the can is the only part that takes time. You can see how I located mine.
- You can also see how to postion the can to the bracket.
- Either now or later; attach the 90 degree can fitting (left to the PVC) and the straight fitting (right, to the drivers side) Use the tube seal ends or zip tie;
- Bend the aluminum strip as square as possible (I had a shop do mine as the first one had some bowing). Clearance is very tight, squaring is really needed. Measure across the top, mine may be 1/4 to small across the top, length in the picture is correct.
- The can has a slide mounting sytem, you'll need to do trial and error fitting over and over to get it right.
Here's a picture of the mounting bolts from the aluminum strip to the can, you've got to make sure you don't interfere with the moving belts, hoses below etc;
- To provide more clearance below, take off the drain valve on the bottom and replace with a cap as shown above. (You'd never want to drain oil that way anyhow),
- Here's another picture installed to give you a sense of height, if you mount too high the hood will rub;
- Once you've found ther best location, drill 2 holes in the upper part of the aluminum and attach to the cross brace.
- Use some Gorilla tape or foam tape as extra protection on the bar near the can base;
With this set up you'll find that only a minimum amount of oil gets into the can, most of the fluid you'll see is oil-water vapor.
To check oil level in the can, remove the breather on top and use a zip tie as a dip stick.
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