Doing new rotors/ pads and springs, any tips?

[bwhitmore]

I am planning on starting the installation of my new cross drilled brake rotors, new pads, and new Eibach springs this weekend. I planned on doing all of it at the same time, while I have it up in the air. Probably start with the springs and work my way out. I also plan to detail everything out so it is clean as the day it was new. Any tips or tricks?

I also have a few questions. First, can I get the entire spring/ shock assemblies out by just removing the upper and lower bolts at the a-arms, or will I need to compress the spring slightly to get them out? I realize I will need to compress the spring to remove it from the shock/ strut when replacing it with the Eibachs. But how about when the Eibachs go back in?

Also, when removing the bake pads and rotors is it easier to swing the caliper away from the rotor first to remove the pads (since I have to pull the caliper up out of the way of the rotor anyway)? Or just pull the pins and drop the pads first, and then swing the caliper out of the way to replce the rotor? I am thinking the later...

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Pull pins, drop pads.

 

[jcaspar1]

Let me know if you have any trouble with the springs/shocks as I live in the area. I have removed mine a few times to adjust the shocks, which you should do while you have the springs off. You can gently pry downward on the upper control are after removing the bolts to remove the spring/shock assembly. Spring removal is a bit trickier. What kind of spring compressor are you going to use?

 

[bwhitmore]

Thanks for the info Jeff. I was going to ask, what should my shock adjustments be after installing the eibachs, and how are they adjusted?

I plan on using a craftsmen spring compressor or maybe one of those hydralic ones like I see from time to time on the forum.

 

[JonB]

I have had a number of customers do this at the time of installing an Eibach Pro kit ($279 Gen 2, $225 Gen 1 - PartsRack, thanks.) Courtesy of JOEL, in UK...good enough for webmasters to archive, a service to all DIYers, applies 1992-2002 except ACR:


****I removed the spring/shock assembly from the car starting at the front, and with a set of spring compressors, removed the spring, then the plastic washer and the rubber bump stop(both split to facilitate fitting and removal). Then by clamping the bottom mounting of the Koni in the vice and fully compressing the shocks travel ( not the vice!) you will be able with a slight turn ( whilst fully compressed ) to feel the internal adjuster engaging. Whilst looking down from the top of the Koni, turning it anticlockwise, whilst still compressed, will reduce the rebound damping and clockwise increases it. There is a total of one and three quarters of a turn adjustment.
Mine were already turned fully anticlockwise ( minimum softest setting ), so I started by increasing the fronts to a half turn clockwise and reinstalling them, A road test showed no appreciable difference.
So out they came again, this time I tried a few different settings on the bench, and its difficult to feel any change until the adjuster is past one full turn clockwise. So I settled on one and a quarter turns all around, front and back, which leaves the Konis noticeably stiffer to fully extend by the very scientific method of standing on the bench above the vice and heaving as hard as I could to extend it.
After re-installing everything and it is a fair bit of work, it took me a full day and a bit of messing about, a roadtest revealed a greatly improved viper, no I'll say that again.... A TRANSFORMED VIPER !! The handling feels as I imagine it was designed to feel, better turn in, less after turn in wallow, much greater precision on the road, (and some of the roads in the UK and Ireland tax viper handling to the maximum). It is actually possible to feel what is happening with the suspension and the feedback from the road surface and tyres is altogether better.
I always knew that Konis were good dampers, and for no outlay, apart from my time, I have enabled them to start doing the job they were intended to do. I am delghted with the result. Joel ********

 

[jcaspar1]

Jon,thanks for digging up Joel's post. Joel was the pioneer on documenting this adjustment and I did exactly what he posted. I did re-adjust my rear shocks to 1 turn after a month or so and it seems better. I have a Harbor freight spring compressor that I used which worked well for the stock shocks, feel free to borrow it. If you can swing a hydralic one that would be even better. I don't know how tight the Eibach colis are but if they are closer that the stock ones it might be hard to get the compressor between them.

 

[bwhitmore]

John,
Thanks that is exactly what as looking for.

Jeff,

Thanks again, I think most spring compressors will fit in between the coils, they don't appear to be too tight.