Door Actuator Problems ... where to get replacement or how to fix? ---

[alwayscode390]

When I pulled into my parking space today and tried to get out ... the door wouldnt open for me from the inside even though the little light was showing on the "lock/unlock" button.

I had to use the EMERGENCY EXIT latch.

I shut it, tried to get the door open and it WOULDNT OPEN!? I locked and unlocked the car, still wouldnt open.

I tried the passenger side and its fine LUCKILY.

Do you think I have a loose wire or is it time for a replacement? If there is an easy fix, what should I try?

Who sells a replacement, and how much are they?

I have only had my car for two weeks, so this is a bummer!!!

Its a 2001 GTS, thanks ---

 

[99 R/T 10]

Not un-common to have the transition of the bundle of wires where the door meets the body to break. Open up the wires there, I bet you will find several broken wires.

 

[alwayscode390]

Thats a good heads up , because I noticed my door speakers crackle and go in and out a little bit too ... probably broken wires there too!!! My door sags a LITTLE bit, would that add to the problem? Thanks

*edit* I just went out HOPING it would open, and it wont. I jiggled the rubber covered bundle of wires from the door to the body and still nothing. If its something broken, is it probably going to take the door panel to be taken off or do you think it will be in the rubber bundle?

I usually wouldnt even care if the driver door didnt open, because its another anti-theft device, lol ... BUT I am going to get the car inspected for plates in a week!!! I dont think they will pass it like this

Just making sure, but the light under the handle on the switch is UNLOCKED when its on, and LOCKED when its off? ---

 

[Steve-Indy]

One could also speculate that there may be a cause and effect relationship between door problems and speedo malfunction (another thread by same poster).... cracked wires can cause abnormal drains...and weak batteries can worsen the cracked wire situation.

 

[Dan Cragin]

Its most likely the door wiring harness.

 

[Viper Fever]

I had the same problem Door harness. Right where the door closes and gets movement.

 

[alwayscode390]

I had the same problem Door harness. Right where the door closes and gets movement.

You guys are talking about a break where the door meets the hood/windshied area, not where the door hits the body around the handle area, right?

Will the whole harness need to be replaced , or if I take it to the dealer will they just find the break and splice it?

What do you estimate the harness to cost if it needs replaced (the part price)? Thanks ---

 

[Viper Fever]

You should be able to find the break. Cut the wire and put some heat shrink on solder the wire . Just take your time
and sort thru the wires. They are usually broke right at where the harness is exposed.

 

[Mutts02GTS]

Remove the gill cover forward of the drivers door and you will be able to get to both ends of the rubber boot that covers the wire bundle. I had the same issue you do, unlock light on and you can hear the solenoid clicking under the dash but no door response, found four broken wires inside the boot where it enters the frame. You will need to slightly tug on the wires individually to find the broken ones, easy fix. Watch out for the shims under the gill panel when you remove it to be sure they go back I their original spots. Take care. Jeff

 

[LifeIsGood]

This is the wire loom...this picture is of the passenger side, but there's one on the driver side also...

You must be registered for see images

 

[alwayscode390]

Thanks a lot guys ... I will try to fix it Monday and let you know how it goes

Does anyone know specifically which color the one is thats connected to the door latch? ---

 

[alwayscode390]

Remove the gill cover forward of the drivers door and you will be able to get to both ends of the rubber boot that covers the wire bundle. I had the same issue you do, unlock light on and you can hear the solenoid clicking under the dash but no door response, found four broken wires inside the boot where it enters the frame. You will need to slightly tug on the wires individually to find the broken ones, easy fix. Watch out for the shims under the gill panel when you remove it to be sure they go back I their original spots. Take care. Jeff

Jeff, I just got in the car and tried opening it from the inside ... I definately heard the solenoid clicking under the dash. I feel a lot better now that it is just a wire and not the actual door actuator. I even saw what you said about the gill cover blocking the right side of the rubber boot. I really appreciate it !!! ---

 

[Vital Velocity]

I cut the hole harness and attached an additional 6" or so so that the wires would have slack and not have to do it again.

 

[alwayscode390]

I pulled back the rubber boot to see 2 wires that broke so cleanly they looked cut, lol. One was the door actuator and the other was the 6" door speaker.

I just rewired those two for now with longer wire, and TADA ... my door worked again!!!

Thanks a TON guys ... that helped me a LOT ---

 

[Talon]

Thanks for this post folks. I have owned my viper now for about 4 months. Immediately after I bought it I thought it was strange that the little lock/unlock light didn't glow, but since it unlocks by opening the door handle I never paid it much mind. About 3 weeks ago I noticed sometimes I'd close the driver door and it would bounce back off the hinge. It reminded me a bit of when I would closed the latching mechanism in the door on my old truck in order to turn the door chime off (while cleaning the interior or whatever). At first it concerned me but what seemed to work for me was that I would hit the door open button on the outside and then try again and it would close. My initial thought behind that was that maybe it was a sticky release button. It seemed to work until one day I came out and could open the door at all. I had to use the manual latch. I immediately thought that I must have a bad actuator and started searching this forum on how to get at it to replace it. I came across this thread. Thank goodness too.

I took off the gill cover and pulled both ends of the rubber boot out and started tugging on wires. I felt a couple break under my tug and others that were loose. There were 5 or 6 total that had the problem. I soldered in about 6 inches of new wire. Everything works again, including the door lock/unlock. Life is good my friends!

Great thread.

P.S. Where can I get a new driver door hinge? The driver door doesn't hold open like it should. When I was replacing the wire, the brittle metal hold tab completely fell out of the door hinge so it's completely shot.

 

[AZTVR]

I soldered in about 6 inches of new wire. Everything works again, including the door lock/unlock. Life is good my friends!

Great thread.

P.S. Where can I get a new driver door hinge? The driver door doesn't hold open like it should. When I was replacing the wire, the brittle metal hold tab completely fell out of the door hinge so it's completely shot.

Yes, this forum has accumulated a great deal of valuable information over the years ! I think that I had one of these wires break within a few months of my purchase, and then several others over the years

Call or email Jon at Parts Rack for the hinge issue. What you probably need has been reproduced, I think

 

[Barry]

I've had this happen three times over the past 14yrs. The first time was warranty work so of course the dealer replaced the EEM, (not really). The second time I was out of warranty so I did it myself and found that the dealer didn't replace the EEM just rigged the wires back together. I ran a longer wire but after four or five years, (today) I had to fix it again. The problem is that the boot is a pinch point and the wires kink where they exit the car into the boot. This time I tried to arrange the wire bundle so that it would slide better in the boot. It may or may not work better but at least it is an easy fix.