Driver window

[Delirious1]

Driver side window was in full up position(touching roofline) got it to go down once has not moved since, applied power directly to window motor and it moves fine no binding or odd noise. The wires checked good in door for continuity, switch has power and swapped switches passenger side works fine. Got a new BCM and problem still persist. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[MoparMap]

When you say wires in the door checked okay for continuity, I assume you mean between the motor and the BCM (basically through the door joint)? Might be a weird thought, but have you tried operating the switch with the door open as well as closed? I suppose there is always a slim chance that the wires are broken but make enough contact when in one orientation compared to the other. Trying to remember if the DRB III readout lists switch statuses or not to see if the BCM is even acknowledging the command.

 

[Delirious1]

Yes, checked through door and tested wires at the motor with power on have one constant 12v and one key/acc 12v no other power for any switch position I have tried every combination I can, ie door open door closed, even replaced the battery and keep it on a tender

 

[MoparMap]

Guessing you might already have these, but if not here are the schematics for the whole window system:

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Here's the section out of the service manual for testing and diagnosis as well:

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[Delirious1]

No I didn’t have those! That is extremely helpful! Is this from the repair manual? definitely getting a digital copy right now. Thanks, I will be trying a few things after work today, thinking it’s something to do with the Hall effect sensor

 

[MoparMap]

Yeah, that's straight out of the service manual. That thing it worth its weight in gold. It is extremely well written and does a great job of explaining both how the systems work and how to diagnose them. It does lean on the DRB III dealer computer a fair amount, but has a lot of really good information otherwise. Super glad I bought one years ago. As a word of advice, they list the wiring manual as a separate book, but it is actually already included on the digital copy. I bought both because I wasn't sure, so it was a slight waste of money. Though having the wiring in physical book form is handy when you are in the car and trying to check stuff vs a digital copy where you have to tote a laptop or something else along. Would love to get a cheap tough tablet and use that as a garage computer though.

 

[Delirious1]

I’m gonna admit I’m still a bit lost… seems like the wire colors don’t correlate. I’m trying to make sense of the five wires coming from the motor. What would cause a “no power” condition to window.. and if something with the hall sensor is messing up can I just replace motor to fix that ?

 

[MoparMap]

I believe the wire colors should be white, pink, orange with a dark blue stripe, light blue, and black (if I remember the coding the manual uses). I think three of those wires are only for the hall sensor though (the three smaller gauge ones of pink, orange, and black). I'm thinking the motor doesn't see any power unless a switch is being operated. Since you have to reverse polarity to change the motor direction, you can't always have 12v on one wire, it would swap back and forth between the white wire and the light blue wire depending on which direction the switch is being pressed. In one switch position I would expect to see 12v on one of those wires and ground on the other and in the other position I would expect that to swap. It sounds like you've tried that already though. You might actually check continuity to ground instead of looking for voltage as another option. Not 100% sure how the BCM actually electrically does its thing, but I would guess each power wire to the motor would have to be capable of being either power, ground, or an "open". It might be that they toggle power fine but not ground, or they toggle ground fine but not power. May at least help pinpoint where the problem is if you see one but not the other.

 

[2004 SRT-10]

I have a 2004 with exact same symptoms that I’ve been fighting for a year. Drivers window went down but won’t go up. Can hear window motor clicking but no movement. I narrowed it down to the BCM. Did all the same troubleshooting as you did. I purchased a new BCM programmed with correct mileage/VIN from a reputable vendor on this forum. It fixed the window problem. However, the replacement BCM caused other problems like the climate control blower motor wouldn’t work, no reverse lights and fog lights stayed on continuously while running. My only guess is the the new replacement BCM is either bad or not programmed correctly. I’m also stumped on where to go from here. I put the original BCM back in and now only have the window stuck in the down position to deal with.

 

[Pleasanton Asp]

Here is wiring coming off of my original equipment passenger side window regulator motor on my 2005 SRT-10. In a separate thread, I'm having an issue with a replacement regulator, and want to test it by putting a 12 volt DC input directly to it. I thought I'd practice first on the old, regulator that has a broken sheath.

Which two wires in the picture below should I test with a 12 volt DC input to see up/down motor movement?

The blue and red appear to be a heavier gauge than the others, but I know traditionally, black/red are power wires.

Looking at the wiring diagram earlier in this thread, I'm not seeing the colors match up to what's actually connected to the regulator motor.

For reference, in the picture below, the opposite end, not shown, goes directly into the regulator motor.

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[Old School]

Here is wiring coming off of my original equipment passenger side window regulator motor on my 2005 SRT-10. In a separate thread, I'm having an issue with a replacement regulator, and want to test it by putting a 12 volt DC input directly to it. I thought I'd practice first on the old, regulator that has a broken sheath.

Which two wires in the picture below should I test with a 12 volt DC input to see up/down motor movement?

The blue and red appear to be a heavier gauge than the others, but I know traditionally, black/red are power wires.

Looking at the wiring diagram earlier in this thread, I'm not seeing the colors match up to what's actually connected to the regulator motor.

For reference, in the picture below, the opposite end, not shown, goes directly into the regulator motor.

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[Pleasanton Asp]

Thanks for that Diagram, but it's still not matching the actual colors found on the hardware. If I simply trial and error apply 12V to the different pin combos directly to the motor, do I risk messing up the the Hall Effect sensors if I put 12V through the pins not going to the motor?

Here's a side by side:

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[MoparMap]

I wouldn't think so. Hall sensors are basically just switches and most are fairly tolerant of voltage, though don't take that as gospel. Looking at the wires I'd go off your original assessment of gauge as a starting point. To me it looks like the red, yellow, and blue wires are the thicker ones there. I'd guess blue is probably ground and red and yellow are the two motor power wires for the different directions.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

That picture is of the connector that is coming from the window regulator?

Go to the wiring harness that that plugs into. That will have the wiring colors listed above. That is an intermediate jumper connector and not listed in the service manual plus the motor could have been replaced before. You could also measure the pins on the connector on the wiring harness in the door that plugs into that pictured connector or maybe you can go to the connector pin out section of the service manual. Sorry I do not have a Gen3 manual on me.

Looks to be the red and blue feed the motor for 12V+ and 12V- switching depending on up or down.

The Black, green and yellow wires are the hall effect ground, input signal and output signal wires.