Driveway problem??

[Wild Bill]

As soon as Bill P finds me my soon to be RED 97+ RT/10 I'll be joining your ranks and driving that that I have dreamed of for 10 years. I have been reading everything I can but need some help.

My driveway is not level and has a dip at the end to channel water down, not much but I am pretty sure the Viper will drag its front air dam. I want to get some concrete to make it more of a constant slope. Do I need to do anything to the existing concrete to get the new concrete to stick to it? Has anyone done anything like this or do you have a better suggestion?

Hope this is the correct forum for this question

Thanks
Bill
(its just a car but MY GOD WHAT A CAR:!

 

[JonB]

Probably prohibited by local ordinances to meddle w/ gutters.

Wait til you get the car and approach / depart at a 45degree angle. You can alos get an aluminum chin-guard that takes the hits...the facia flexes a LOT.

You would have to etch the old surface w/ muriatic acid, and the patched-concrete ramp will deteriorate. "Running Water Always Wins"

If its NOT doable, maybe get a metal plate that spans the gutter..

 

[MR VENOM]

Use some asphalt patch (can be bought at most home improvement stores). If water needs to "channel", put a pvc drain pipe in the "flow line" and install the asphalt. Make sure to "tamp" the asphalt; let it set overnight.

 

[monnieh]

Well since you are getting such a killer ride now the best thing to do is to get a new house to accesorize with the Snake. Shoot that's what I did!

Actually that is really almost true as I moved after getting the Viper due to the HORRIBLE parking my old house had. Moved into a much nicer home.

Getting a Viper brings good luck.

 

[Wild Bill]

"tamp"??? Please explain (sorry failed asphalt repair in school)

Bill

 

[Newport Viper]

I wish I could post pics. but computers are beyond me. I just finished a retractable ramp. I had to hinge it so it would not touch the side walk.( against CC&R's in my hood) The point I am making is before you try it up the driveway use carpet so it doesn't scrape, until you figure out what to do.

 

[Frank 03SRT]

I took two bags of Sacrete, did nothing to the underlying surface, plopped it down, tapered it, covered it with plastic for a couple days, drove on it for two years, and it is still there. I fully expect it to depart in a year or two, but 30 minutes later, there will be a new Sacrete ramp.

 

[GTS Bruce]

Quick and dirty.Drop a board in the depression if you can't make a permanent change. Bruce

 

[GTS Dean]

Driveway repair tips:

Asphalt paving is my specialty, but I built a concrete driveway for my home. This is primarily because my highway class equipment is too big. Sawcut edges make for stronger, longer lasting patches whether they be in concrete or asphalt.

Asphalt should be heavily and uniformly compacted to provide strength and durability, but patches are almost never done correctly. Asphalt pavement should not be spread and compacted to thicknesses less than 1.5 to 2x the diameter of the largest stones in the mix, or it will crack and flake off. If you buy this stuff prepackaged in a bucket, temperature is not an issue, but surfaces it is applied to must be CLEAN AND DRY. Since you're not likely to have the types of machines in the following photos around,

I would suggest this procedure:

Place the patch material in lifts and keep the edges square. Start narrow - 12-18" wide, the width of the valley, and 3/4" thick. Compact first using a strip of plywood under a car tire (for flatness), then use the tire itself for density. Apply another lift covering more area, screed off smoothly, plywood compact, then tire compact. Remember uniform thickness and consistent density! This can add up to a lot of buckets of mix. and a lot of time. A pickup load of Hot Mix/Cold Lay Asphalt is cheaper to buy in much volume, but it isn't any easier to place and compact and may not be available in your area. Hot Mix (hot laid) only sticks together if it's HOT (180F min, 350F max). That's why street patches rarely ever last - too cold, improperly compacted.

Frankly, Sackrete is easier to work with and you can feather it thinner at the edges if necessary. Underlying concrete must be washed CLEAN with no broken chunks in the patch area. Apply a well-thinned paste of 100% cement to the surfaces of the concrete you are bonding to. Patch mix should be applied to DAMP, (not soaked) surfaces, including soil. The mix itself should be placed as dry as you can work it - you can sprinkle a little water on top with a brush to get a nice smooth finish. Cover with plastic or damp old blanket/carpet and keep it damp for 24 hours to 3 days.

 

[Kurt 97 GTS]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Wild Bill:
"tamp"??? Please explain (sorry failed asphalt repair in school)

Bill

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Simply means to use a blunt object to compact the asphalt. Think of it like a using a hammer to pound the ground!!