Dry sump

[cash84]

I couldn't choose to go with the 08 oil pan or just go dry sump. So I decided to go dry. After figuring prices, its gonna cost me roughly the same as the kit (building it myself). I have all the maching and equipment to use. I have couple question. What stage is best? I do road racing the most. I was think stage 4-5 would be the best. How many quarts (oil tank) should be used? Lastly, are there any drive kit that bolts on to the crank that can be brought?

 

[Tail lights]

I'm in the middle of dry sumping my gen II right now.All viper dry some systems I've seen have 5 stages, 4 scavenge and 1 pressure, All scavenge pumps **** from the pan, You don't need to **** out the heads. As far as capacity goes 4 to 5 gallons is the norm. I'm just curious what pan are you using? Are you familiar with the GT-R Dry sump oil pan? The oil pump bolts directly to the pan, Without any scavenge lines. Also where are you going to put the tank? I'm putting mine in the back corner.

 

[cash84]

Okay I been leaning towards the 5 stage like you mention. I am custom making the pan. No welding be is involve. There will be some CAD work into it. It will be three piece setup with bolts. As for where the pump located, it will be on the bottom of the engine but I have to make it a low profile pan in order to make the pump high enough. I have to do it this way so I can keep my A/C. Otherwise, everything will be piece of cake. As for the tank, that will be a tough location. I I have a spare block that was blown from a track event last year that I will be testing on.

I will be running all the scavenge line to the side of the pan from the pump. Basically like you mention it will be attach but inside I will be running hard lines at different location. This is all fresh in my head right now.

What I need to know is what did you use or going to use for the main drive pulley? I've been doing research and thinking of having a custom made ATI racing damper to run the dry sump drive.

 

[MTGTS]

checkout these guys for pumps/pullies/etc...

http://www.daileyengineering.com/dailey_engineering_home.htm

I would love a Gen 2 kit that isn't $6k

 

[NI-KA]

Amen

+ one that would allow me to keep the A/C

checkout these guys for pumps/pullies/etc...

http://www.daileyengineering.com/dailey_engineering_home.htm

I would love a Gen 2 kit that isn't $6k

 

[cash84]

checkout these guys for pumps/pullies/etc...

http://www.daileyengineering.com/dailey_engineering_home.htm

I would love a Gen 2 kit that isn't $6k

I did contact them and Bill responded back. A great guy but he doesn't have anything in stock. Its custom made through ati racing. His is made for only his pump because his is small compare to normal pumps. I'm trying to find a mandrel pulley drive but may have to get custom made by ati racing.

 

[Nadine UK GTS]

Only just seen this post, if I can be of any help I can take some photos of the GTS-R set up for you? I should have some pictures I took when working on a Comp Coupe that had an adapted GTS-R pump on it, this pump had been mod for the Gen3 block using the stock location (side) street car mounts (GTS-R Gen2 based block used front cover location mounts) so in order to fit it with the stock location mounts they just 'knocked' off the air / oil separator end chamber (doh!). Bill Dailey was most helpful and helped me sort the system out to achieve the correct pressure control required. Obviously neither of these set ups would allow to retain the air con. What you propose sounds a good method to deal with this, please post pics up for us of your development.

 

[Paul Hawker]

How about using a combination of latest oil pickup swing arm and accusump?

 

[Nadine UK GTS]

How about using a combination of latest oil pickup swing arm and accusump?

Hey Paul, thats works well, we have a Comp Coupe in the UK set up like that.

 

[cash84]

How about using a combination of latest oil pickup swing arm and accusump?

Doesn't create vacuum.... there are so many different advantage over that compare to a swing arm. One is also that having a tank seperate from the engine keeps oil temps way down. In fact, I have a heater installed to help warm up faster. Average temp I seen on my oil was around 180-190 which is perfect! There isn't even a oil cooler on yet. I do have one but was afraid that it may be too cold to run.

Just to give you guys a heads up that I did complete my dry sump. I was able to keep my A/C and didn't need to cut or majorly modify anything but drill 4 holes to a frame to hold the oil Tank. Lots of trial and error but was able to get everything in. Looks very factory under the hood You will almost never find the tank unless you really tried looking for it. I perfer keeping it under the table for a while before I post pics.

 

[Viper Grenade]

I have that Dailey system using a Peterson 8qt tank. The tank is mounted in the trunk and uses all -16 AN lines. I can tell you with the huge oil cooler I have my oil tems, even on the hotest of days under hard track use, never goes above 185, typically it's closer to 165. The nice thing is, not matter what, oil temp is steady. I also adapted to use a larger oil filter, K&N 3001 or Fram PH8A. The filters are huge! The Dailey system does us a billet oil pan and lets you keep your factory AC. Simply put, it is bad asp. The engine is "pre-oiled" on startup by the accu-sump. With the way I set the system up It does pull Vac from the Valve covers into a puke tank(aka catch can), if for whatever reason the puke tank gets full, it simple flows the extra oil back to the tank in the trunk. And do yourself a favor when installing a tank in the rear, run the lines down the driver's side as high up as possible. 3x -16 AN lines don't fit well on the passanger's side of the car.

 

[Paolo Castellano]

I couldn't choose to go with the 08 oil pan or just go dry sump. So I decided to go dry. After figuring prices, its gonna cost me roughly the same as the kit (building it myself). I have all the maching and equipment to use. I have couple question. What stage is best? I do road racing the most. I was think stage 4-5 would be the best. How many quarts (oil tank) should be used? Lastly, are there any drive kit that bolts on to the crank that can be brought?

Try this: locate the oil pump under the pan and retain the stock AC:

http://www.mitechengines.com/viper/viper%20page-2.htm

Call Mike @ Mitech 714 572 3672

 

[vp97]

That Mitech setup is pretty cool!

 

[MTGTS]

How much is the mitech?

 

[Camfab]

Wow that Dailey Engineering kit looks like art work, simply awesome.

 

[Paolo Castellano]

How much is the mitech?

You would have to call Mike and ask....... Definitely cheaper than the Dailey stuff. Mike LeFevers has been building 2000+ HP twin turbo Bonneville endurance engines successfully since the mid 80's and is probably one of the best engine builders in the world! Anything like this dry sump setup designed by Mike will work under the most extreme conditions and get the job done!

 

[Paolo Castellano]

You should see Bill Dailey's latest creation for the Gen 3 that is like the Mitech in terms of locating the pump directly under the crank except it is all CNC machined

http://www.viperalley.com/forum/viper-discussions-srt/90708-nlr-viper-10.html look at post #200. I believe Sebastian is the distributor of this Gen 3 product. Sebastian worked closely with Bill to develop this product for the gen 3. As usual Dailey's work is a work of art.

This setup will not be cheap and it looks beautiful!