Dyno'd My Roe Setup today. Man do I have questions.

[KNG SNKE]

yeah ill be leaning it out soon. I am running Roe's 5lb tune so that timing curve is what I am using.

AFR will be leaner on the road because you have cooler moving air in front of the car. The fan in front of the vehicle can only move so much air past the vehicle on the dyno.

 

[Mr Hemi Head]

I plan on hooking up a mechanical boost gauge just to verify these readings soon, not a permanent one just temporary and do a run to see what I come up with. Kinda hard to believe a 5lb pulley would make that much boost.

I have the same boost creep and torque is lower than HP as well but the car runs too good to worry about it.

Forget the boost gauge and install a AF gauge...permanently.

The dyno is a good place to start but street tuning is ideal...on a closed course.

A laptop, Roe's VEC software and a AF gauge wired into the VEC is all that you need.
Rick

 

[KNG SNKE]

Sorry, should have included that. I have an AEM afr gauge permanently installed and wired into the vec. I did a full datalog of the runs. At 5500rpm I was at 7.5psi on my 2nd dyno run, 8.5 on my 3rd. Below that I saw the normal 6 to 7psi boost creep.

Shoot me your email and I can send you the logs.

I just took Steve's advice and zoomed them in a little and they actually don't look too bad. AFR was pretty steady, just very rich in the meat of the pull. The high end AFR when I started really boost creeping was a little bit up there.

 

[vipzilla]

well 530hp seems verry low and i dont think your boost is right either 9.6 lbs you would be making more like 630hp or more ... i made 545hp with the belt off of my paxton on my new build and with belt on i just dynoed at 731hp and 799 torque on my gen 1 ... also all that smoke you talked about somthing aint rt

 

[KenH]

I'm not sure the cylinders see the boost creep so much as it might just be backing up in the intake manifold or something so you are not going to see a 9psi type HP number from it. 530 on an untuned 5lb Roe is right about what you can expect, boost creep or not.

 

[Mr Hemi Head]

Sorry, should have included that. I have an AEM afr gauge permanently installed and wired into the vec. I did a full datalog of the runs. At 5500rpm I was at 7.5psi on my 2nd dyno run, 8.5 on my 3rd. Below that I saw the normal 6 to 7psi boost creep.

Shoot me your email and I can send you the logs.

I just took Steve's advice and zoomed them in a little and they actually don't look too bad. AFR was pretty steady, just very rich in the meat of the pull. The high end AFR when I started really boost creeping was a little bit up there.

If you speak with Sean I think you will discover that this is normal. The creep is due to the limitation of the heads. Someone mentioned that rockers would help...the least expensive way to address this and gain another 10 to 15hp in the process.

I have not gone that route because the car runs perfectly for my driving style.

When you get the AF closer to 11 through the entire RPM range the car will be more responsive with less exhaust odor.

I would focus on that for now.

I agree with Ken H...the HP numbers are about right. The dyno make, operator and ambient temperature will impact the data. It's a great tool for comparing before and after results but not so much for comparing performance with other cars.

Rick

 

[KNG SNKE]

As long as it is normal I am happy . I have a local selling a set of rockers and push rods and I still might grab them off his hands for when I take my valve covers off.

Still waiting for seans response.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

I agree completely with KenH and Rick's comments above

Steve

 

[Russ M]

well 530hp seems verry low and i dont think your boost is right either 9.6 lbs you would be making more like 630hp or more ... i made 545hp with the belt off of my paxton on my new build and with belt on i just dynoed at 731hp and 799 torque on my gen 1 ... also all that smoke you talked about somthing aint rt

Gonna have to make a new category for you, not sure what to name it yet though. Something that brings across the message that says I dont need boost to make 545rwhp on my roe, your all doing it wrong.

I dont know why all those people are bothering buying Stryker heads all they need to do is buy a roe blower and not hook up the belt, and they make similar power.

 

[KNG SNKE]

Heard from Sean today. Spoke to him briefly on the phone as well. Here is the consensus.

If it has stock or old plug wires, the missing can be the ignition breaking up.

That can be why your torque is low also.

The rich AF will cost you torque as well.

In regard to boost, the closer to ideal tune and the more ignition timing you allow it to have , the lower the boost will be.

There’s some boost creep in a stock set of heads and standard intake manifold base, compounded with stock exhaust manifolds, etc. You can see it mainly happens in the upper RPM area, which is normal.

A 1.7 to 2 psi gain is fairly common on an application like yours from 5,200 to 6,000.

I would look at leaning the engine out a bit, checking the plug wires and giving it as much ignition timing as practical for the fuel you have.

There’s not much you can do about boost creep unless you start doing things to let the engine breath out more (rockers, headers, head work).

The best suggestion is to keep the RPM under 5,500 and realistically, they live a very long time when shifting at 5,200.

All sounds very logical. I spoke to him about hitting 9.6, he said that is very high but there are many reasons it could have spiked that high. I have headers on the way and I am picking up rockers and pushrods soon so he said install those an no need to worry.

As far as the plug wires, I have OEM's on it.
Headers on the way soon.
Rockers are local, just gotta get around to paying the man and him helping with the install.
Tuning will come after that.
I don't drive past 5200 rpm anyhow but I want to make sure the vehicle is running right.

 

[King RT10]

Heard from Sean today. Spoke to him briefly on the phone as well. Here is the consensus.

If it has stock or old plug wires, the missing can be the ignition breaking up.

That can be why your torque is low also.

The rich AF will cost you torque as well.

In regard to boost, the closer to ideal tune and the more ignition timing you allow it to have , the lower the boost will be.

There’s some boost creep in a stock set of heads and standard intake manifold base, compounded with stock exhaust manifolds, etc. You can see it mainly happens in the upper RPM area, which is normal.

A 1.7 to 2 psi gain is fairly common on an application like yours from 5,200 to 6,000.

I would look at leaning the engine out a bit, checking the plug wires and giving it as much ignition timing as practical for the fuel you have.

There’s not much you can do about boost creep unless you start doing things to let the engine breath out more (rockers, headers, head work).

The best suggestion is to keep the RPM under 5,500 and realistically, they live a very long time when shifting at 5,200.

All sounds very logical. I spoke to him about hitting 9.6, he said that is very high but there are many reasons it could have spiked that high. I have headers on the way and I am picking up rockers and pushrods soon so he said install those an no need to worry.

As far as the plug wires, I have OEM's on it.
Headers on the way soon.
Rockers are local, just gotta get around to paying the man and him helping with the install.
Tuning will come after that.
I don't drive past 5200 rpm anyhow but I want to make sure the vehicle is running right.

What gas octane are you using?
Headers did not do much for me for the price.
Stock flow well.

 

[KNG SNKE]

93 Octane. Headers will reduce some of that boost creep though.