EBC Greens burning rotor?? opinions (pic)

[MES]

Pic below is of the front rotors. I replaced the rotors & pads about 500 miles ago. The rotors are stock and the pads are EBC greens.

Is this normal looking? it looks burnt to me? Both sides are the same. I don't know exactly when this occurred but I now have about 500 miles on them. I did do multiple high speed stops (130MPH) at the drag strip but only after 300+ miles of street use. Should I get some reds or is this normal? Hopefully the rotors are not damaged, they are not warped. Thoughts?

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[Vip-RT10]

Did you use the emory board on the rotors like they suggest? They say that to better seat the pads from new. The stain looks like a chemical stain to me from the pics, or some oil product. Almost looks like a finger. I would try and get a small rag with a small dab of WD-40 and whipe the affected area and see if it goes away, but don't do the entire rotor....bad for stopping.

 

[Chuck 97 GTS]

Those are just heat marks; I wouldn't worry about them. The 130mph stops are what caused them. Mine were much worse from a couple 180+ runs. After some normal street driving the marks will disappear. Wear them like a badge of honor!

 

[MES]

A badge of honor eh, never thought of that

Thanks for your replies, I've never seen that before on the rotors. There was no brake fade, so as long as I can stop I guess it should be ok.

 

[Wing King]

MES, the other comments are pretty much right on. It has to due with heat and chemical reaction in combination with the metal and original curing of your rotor during manufacturing. While GreatBrakes.com, the distributor, has only seen this on two Vipers prior to yours, it's been quite a common initial reaction with C5 Corvette rotors. The discoloration should go away after a while.

 

[getbit]

My rotors look the same with same with the EBC green. I was wondering also. Thanks for bringing it to everyone's attention.

 

[BigCarrot]

Mine do that to. I also have a friend that has that happen quite often. I guess it's normal.

 

[Jay Herbert]

Congrats on your first major venture into the realm of Viper Grease Monkeydom!!! Make sure to include drawings and technical data in the instruction on how to make the Custom Tony Rickard Rear Caliper Piston Socket!

We gave away a set of "75 tools" (sockets, wrenches, etc.) at the Shreveport event this past weekend to promote "Self Mechanicing"... too bad you were not there to win it, looks like you'll be needing more tools.

 

[SSSSE YA]

Those "Hot spots" are characteristic of overheating a pad/rotor. I have seen that occur in pads with a low heat
range. Extreme cases produce a rotor that looks like leopard skin. Pads that offer excellent cold stopping and low dust/noise often cannot withstand the heat that can be generated by this much H.P. just my 2 cents

 

[GTS Dean]

It would be more revealing if the wheel was off to see more, but here's my take:

Question: Did you put new pads on used discs? Pads transfer material into the surface voids of the disc. When the frictional temps climb, the brake material on both sides works in concert to slow the wheel. It could be that the previous pad materials have poor compatiblity with the EBC compounds.

I bought an almost new set of takeoff discs a couple of years back and used them with PFC 93 pads. The 93s are known for their high temp operation and *extremely aggressive* bite. I loved the performance, but the rotors developed nickel-sized deposits of bright metal over each of the cooling vanes on both friction surfaces of the discs. This led to chattery pulsations felt thru the pedal under braking. I had the rotors turned but the deposits were still there.

I guess I would suggest turning used rotors prior to using this EBC compound, then trying a normal brake burnishing procedure to uniformly transfer lining material from the new EBCs to the freshened rotor surface. The street pads probably won't transfer lining as deeply as a race compound used heavily at the track.

 

[MES]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
Did you put new pads on used discs
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The rotors were replaced at the same time the pads were installed, so they were both brand new. Also it was driven on the street (normal driving) about 300-400 miles prior to me going to the track (drag strip) and noticing the dark spots.

Looking a little closer today I see the marks are still on the rotors but are somewhat wearing away (have 300 miles since pic above was taken) Also the dark marks seem line up with the metal veins in the rotor (i.e. dark marks are on top of the solid piece of metal that runs between the two rotor sides) The air gap part of the rotors has no dark marks (well almost none, there are a few) What does this mean if anything? Thanks

 

[GTS Dean]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MES:

Also the dark marks seem line up with the metal veins in the rotor (i.e. dark marks are on top of the solid piece of metal that runs between the two rotor sides) The air gap part of the rotors has no dark marks (well almost none, there are a few) What does this mean if anything? Thanks

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Differential cooling rates. Get the rotors hot enough and they'll all do that to some extent.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Vipermad,

Thanks for the tip on cutting a socket down. Mine doesn't look nearly as good as yours, but did the job. I found the company that makes the tool and ordered one this morning. $16. My socket tool is pretty crude(no Dremel tool..hack saw/sawzall/grinder), although the pistons turned in quite easily.

Steve

 

[treynor]

We have EBC greens on all four corners of our Daytona car, and I have seen the same pattern appear on the front rotors, and to a lesser extent the rear rotors, after we visit the dragstrip. It appears the greens don't appreciate the 120-10 mph braking which follows each run at the 'strip. However, I've noticed no ill effect other than the odd coloration, which wears off after a few hundred street miles.

 

[MES]

Ditto what treynor said. It seems to be normal

so far the rotors don't seem to be warped and it still stops fine. I have been to the strip twice since the original post and each time the black spots re-appeared.