Here is a break in procedure I got from another newsgroup. This goes a bit far but I would say the more you do the better off your engine will be. This is the best I've seen on engine break-in so far.
From: James Crone (Performance Engineering)
Subject: Engine Break-in Procedures
First let me take a moment to let you know that much of the information I am posting here can be found in a book called "Break it in right" by Robert Sikorsky and "Drive it Forever" by the same author. Now enjoy....
The most important aspect to consider when breaking in a new car is "cold start-ups". This is the most detrimental time for your "new" engine. Tolerances are tight and exacting.You want to minimize the amount of time it takes your engine to get to NORMAL operating temperature especially when the car has completely cooled off(like overnight).Make sure to buckle up your seat belt,adjust the seat,ect BEFORE you start the car. This saves gasoline and keeps the time the car is idling to an absolute minimum. When you start the car, make sure to put it in gear and drive off immediately. NEVER use more than 1/4 throttle when your engine is cold. This could cause engine glazing and out of round bore after a few times, which is a no no. Idling equals uneven wear. Try not to do it. If you have to go somewhere and you know there will be stop and go traffic, try to use your other vehicle(if you have one) for short trips or traffic duty. This is especially true on really cold days when the car takes much more time to completely warm up.
Once underway, drive slowly at first, shifting under 2500 rpms and make the shifts smooth and deliberate. You are not just breaking in the engine, but also your transmission,differential, and other moving parts.It is important to vary your speeds. I use an rpm pyramid procedure. Do this while staying under 55 mph for the first 100 miles or so. Put it into high gear(say 3rd or fourth gear) and hold 1800 rpms for 20 seconds, then move up to 2000 rpms, holding it there for 20 seconds or so. Then follow the same procedure at 2200 rpms, 2500 rpms, and then 2700 rpms. Do not exceed 2700 rpms. Once you get to 2700 rpms, go back down the ladder like this: 2700-2500-2200-2000-1800 and so on. Get used to this procedure. This helps the rings seat properly as well as even wear on all sides and heights of the bore. Do this also at lower speeds(like in first gear,2nd gear,3rd gear and 4th gear). The reason for varying "actual speeds" as well as engine speeds helps break-in your transmission gears as well as other moving parts. High speed highway miles should be kept to a minimum for the first 100 mils.
It is important to know that engine and transmission wear is at an accelerated wear process as all the parts are trying to conform together. An engine and/or transmission parts don't fit together very well when new. The metal parts must wear enough so that they fit well together. The additional friction of these parts trying to form together adds a considerable amount of heat. Heat is the enemy of a new engine. Sometimes a new engine will run 30-50 degrees warmer during break-in. By driving your new vehicle during the evening and following these break-in procedures, your engine will run cooler, adding to the break-in.
The initial few hundred miles are the most crucial. Follow these simple tips:
1. The number of cold starts during the first 1000 miles should be kept to a minimum. Take a long afternoon or evening trip to gain benefits.
2. Never let the engine labor. Engine "lugging"(putting the transmission in a gear too high) can be very hazardous to a new drivetrain.
3. A new engine should not be allowed to idle much. Even though the bearing loads are small, other lubrication conditions will be at their worst. As the frictional values drop, sometimes you can see a slight variation in idle speed.
4. Never stay at the same engine rpm or actual speed for more than 20-30 seconds at a time for the first 500 miles.
5. Because of the high "pressure" shearing(high spots in bore removal by friction) it would be prudent to follow this oil change interval during break-in. Metal shavings and debris will be floating around in your oil(some much smaller than the oil filter can filer out). Change the oil after the first 400 miles. I know what you are thinking. But its worth getting the metal that has been worn away(theirs a lot during break-in) out of your engine, otherwise it may deposit itself and cause uneven wear on your cylinder bore or bearings which in turn causes more long term frictional heat and "negative" wear. I then change my oil again at 1000 miles. Then at 2500 miles and then every 3000 miles. There are MANY extra benefits of doing this during break-in. Id be here all night explaining!
6. After the first 800 miles or so, try this ring seating exercise: While in fourth gear or so(at cruising speeds), slowly depress the accelerator pedal until it is floored and hold it there for 4-5 seconds. SLOWLY depress the pedal. Slamming the accelerator pedal down hard can cause oil to be squeezed away from vital moving parts(namely small and big end bearings) and cause "negative" wear. By slowly depressing the gas pedal to the floor you raise internal pressure which squeezes the rings a little harder against the liner which helps them seat. After holding the throttle there for thr 5 seconds, SLOWLY (again to keep the load off the upper and lower bearings) let off the gas pedal, allowing the car to decelerate by itself(to about 1800-2000 rpms). This too raises pressure within the motor and shoots oil up into the top cylinder area giving much needed lubrication.
7. Try not to use your air conditioner for the first 200 miles or so. The A/C robs power and contributes a more than desirable amount of unneeded heat.
8. Full throttle starts from a dead stop should be avoided at all costs.
As you get more mileage on your car, you can start holding your speeds longer, for a couple of minutes at a time now. Remember to never stay at one engine rpm or road speed for a very long. To help with varying your road speeds, ease off the gas pedal completely (slowly) and let the car slow down on its own. This creates more engine vacuum, which can assist in getting more oil into the upper cylinder area where it is needed most.
After the initial 3000 miles it would be very beneficial to change ALL your other fluids (transmission,differential,ect) to reduce the amount of debris floating around in your differential and transmission.
I know all this seems like a major pain in your behind. And yes its very boring at times. But just remember, if you and a friend have the same exact car and you follow these recommendations, most likely your car will get better fuel economy, be a couple of lengths faster and most of all, will reduce the likelihood of any serious problems arising in the future.
From: James Crone (Performance Engineering)
Subject: Engine Break-in Procedures
First let me take a moment to let you know that much of the information I am posting here can be found in a book called "Break it in right" by Robert Sikorsky and "Drive it Forever" by the same author. Now enjoy....
The most important aspect to consider when breaking in a new car is "cold start-ups". This is the most detrimental time for your "new" engine. Tolerances are tight and exacting.You want to minimize the amount of time it takes your engine to get to NORMAL operating temperature especially when the car has completely cooled off(like overnight).Make sure to buckle up your seat belt,adjust the seat,ect BEFORE you start the car. This saves gasoline and keeps the time the car is idling to an absolute minimum. When you start the car, make sure to put it in gear and drive off immediately. NEVER use more than 1/4 throttle when your engine is cold. This could cause engine glazing and out of round bore after a few times, which is a no no. Idling equals uneven wear. Try not to do it. If you have to go somewhere and you know there will be stop and go traffic, try to use your other vehicle(if you have one) for short trips or traffic duty. This is especially true on really cold days when the car takes much more time to completely warm up.
Once underway, drive slowly at first, shifting under 2500 rpms and make the shifts smooth and deliberate. You are not just breaking in the engine, but also your transmission,differential, and other moving parts.It is important to vary your speeds. I use an rpm pyramid procedure. Do this while staying under 55 mph for the first 100 miles or so. Put it into high gear(say 3rd or fourth gear) and hold 1800 rpms for 20 seconds, then move up to 2000 rpms, holding it there for 20 seconds or so. Then follow the same procedure at 2200 rpms, 2500 rpms, and then 2700 rpms. Do not exceed 2700 rpms. Once you get to 2700 rpms, go back down the ladder like this: 2700-2500-2200-2000-1800 and so on. Get used to this procedure. This helps the rings seat properly as well as even wear on all sides and heights of the bore. Do this also at lower speeds(like in first gear,2nd gear,3rd gear and 4th gear). The reason for varying "actual speeds" as well as engine speeds helps break-in your transmission gears as well as other moving parts. High speed highway miles should be kept to a minimum for the first 100 mils.
It is important to know that engine and transmission wear is at an accelerated wear process as all the parts are trying to conform together. An engine and/or transmission parts don't fit together very well when new. The metal parts must wear enough so that they fit well together. The additional friction of these parts trying to form together adds a considerable amount of heat. Heat is the enemy of a new engine. Sometimes a new engine will run 30-50 degrees warmer during break-in. By driving your new vehicle during the evening and following these break-in procedures, your engine will run cooler, adding to the break-in.
The initial few hundred miles are the most crucial. Follow these simple tips:
1. The number of cold starts during the first 1000 miles should be kept to a minimum. Take a long afternoon or evening trip to gain benefits.
2. Never let the engine labor. Engine "lugging"(putting the transmission in a gear too high) can be very hazardous to a new drivetrain.
3. A new engine should not be allowed to idle much. Even though the bearing loads are small, other lubrication conditions will be at their worst. As the frictional values drop, sometimes you can see a slight variation in idle speed.
4. Never stay at the same engine rpm or actual speed for more than 20-30 seconds at a time for the first 500 miles.
5. Because of the high "pressure" shearing(high spots in bore removal by friction) it would be prudent to follow this oil change interval during break-in. Metal shavings and debris will be floating around in your oil(some much smaller than the oil filter can filer out). Change the oil after the first 400 miles. I know what you are thinking. But its worth getting the metal that has been worn away(theirs a lot during break-in) out of your engine, otherwise it may deposit itself and cause uneven wear on your cylinder bore or bearings which in turn causes more long term frictional heat and "negative" wear. I then change my oil again at 1000 miles. Then at 2500 miles and then every 3000 miles. There are MANY extra benefits of doing this during break-in. Id be here all night explaining!
6. After the first 800 miles or so, try this ring seating exercise: While in fourth gear or so(at cruising speeds), slowly depress the accelerator pedal until it is floored and hold it there for 4-5 seconds. SLOWLY depress the pedal. Slamming the accelerator pedal down hard can cause oil to be squeezed away from vital moving parts(namely small and big end bearings) and cause "negative" wear. By slowly depressing the gas pedal to the floor you raise internal pressure which squeezes the rings a little harder against the liner which helps them seat. After holding the throttle there for thr 5 seconds, SLOWLY (again to keep the load off the upper and lower bearings) let off the gas pedal, allowing the car to decelerate by itself(to about 1800-2000 rpms). This too raises pressure within the motor and shoots oil up into the top cylinder area giving much needed lubrication.
7. Try not to use your air conditioner for the first 200 miles or so. The A/C robs power and contributes a more than desirable amount of unneeded heat.
8. Full throttle starts from a dead stop should be avoided at all costs.
As you get more mileage on your car, you can start holding your speeds longer, for a couple of minutes at a time now. Remember to never stay at one engine rpm or road speed for a very long. To help with varying your road speeds, ease off the gas pedal completely (slowly) and let the car slow down on its own. This creates more engine vacuum, which can assist in getting more oil into the upper cylinder area where it is needed most.
After the initial 3000 miles it would be very beneficial to change ALL your other fluids (transmission,differential,ect) to reduce the amount of debris floating around in your differential and transmission.
I know all this seems like a major pain in your behind. And yes its very boring at times. But just remember, if you and a friend have the same exact car and you follow these recommendations, most likely your car will get better fuel economy, be a couple of lengths faster and most of all, will reduce the likelihood of any serious problems arising in the future.
