Factory Clutch or upgrade

[pauls]

My first factory clutch, 96 GTS, was great. Three years service with regular drag racing. Had trans replaced under warranty and clutch needed replaced. Now the replacement clutch is gone in 1 yr and wasn't abused as much as the original. Any experiences with replacement factory clutches with similar short service? I have the car apart for winter cleaning and don't want to mess with a factory clutch again if thats all the life it has.

I have bolt on mods, make around 450 RWHP, mostly drag racing. What works best at a Mopar parts price? Centerforce, Mcleod, ??

 

[JonB]

1) The Year Matters!

The OEM clutch was changed in mid 1997, in an attempt to deal with NGR complaints. The newer clutches are NOT as aggressive as the 1996 and prior clutch face.

2) Since you are ******* a clutch, Id like to suggest a Kevlar heavy duty clutch/pressure plate kit (under $500!) instead of another NGR-dampened OE softee. We have numerous clients with thousands of hard track miles on this disc. It meets you "MoPar Price criteria, too !

3) Why not consider an AL flywheel at the same time?

 

[Maverick The Electrician]

I normally go through a clutch a year. I am currently making 850 RWHP, & almost 1000 Torque. I have an extra clutch here if you are interested I can give you at a great price.

 

[BWoodbury]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by richc22:

Jon is right... You WANT that aluminum flywheel... just replaced my stock behemoth flywheel with aluminum... it is a cheap hp gain!!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Now just wait a minute! I understand that lots of people like their aluminum flywheels. But this is the first time I have heard anyone try to claim that they add HP!

My understanding is that they "feel better". But I measure HP on a Dynojet, not with my rear!

 

[pauls]

Right on the flywheel. The tires bite so hard now it's slipping the factory clutch in first (haze from under the car in videos) A light flywheel will bog it even more. I might have that 97 clutch your referring to. What is the opinion on the Center Force dual disc.
Thanks JonB, I'll see what shakes out. Are the '96 stock clutches still in inventory?

 

[Greg D]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
Originally posted by BWoodbury:

Now just wait a minute! I understand that lots of people like their aluminum flywheels. But this is the first time I have heard anyone try to claim that they add HP!

My understanding is that they "feel better". But I measure HP on a Dynojet, not with my rear!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you remove rotating weight (in this case, via an aluminum flywheel)doesn't that free up horsepower that can now be directed back (ADDED) to the rear wheels and in turn used to spin the Dyno Jet's drums? (instead of wasting it spinning an over weight flywheel)

HP is not measured, Torque is measuered and HP is extrapolated over time (RPM) through a formula.
HP=(Tq X RPM)/5252

The constant 5252 is why Torque and HP will ALWAYS be the same at 5252 RPM.

When we used an aluminum flywheel on torque challenged motors, the engine would bog off the line unless you got the RPMs way up there. But, when an aluminum flywheel is used on a engine that easily spins the tires on launch, (Vipers tend to be traction limited) it helps get the car out of the hole by minimizing tire spin by letting the available traction pull down the engine RPM (ever so slightly, not a full on bog) and not having to also over come the inertia of a heavy spinning flywheel. (this is an old trick street racers have used to get thier car to hook on a surface that was comparatively slipperier than a prepped track surface)

Just my .02 cents

 

[pauls]

It think your assuming the use of street tires. I use M/Ts streets. They bite like a slick and leaving at 5500 it noses over unless I ride the clutch a little. I need rotating mass to keep the motor from falling on it's face.

 

[Greg D]

Leaving at 5500 RPM and not breaking traction in a Viper with out slicks is impressive. What size M/T ET Streets do you use? How fast have you been in the quarter? Leaving at 5500 RPM and not breaking traction, you must have at least a 1.5 60' which could translate into a mid 10 second pass.
I am interested in your combination. Sounds like a good one to copy.
How many out there use ET Streets? Slicks? I would bet there are many more people who use the stock tires than the sticky's.

 

[Greg D]

Bad gts: probably won't be using ET streets on my Viper. I have a set on my blown 10.5" tire 64 Nova and can vouch for how well they hook up over a set of radials. (actually, I use the ET Streets for street racing (ahh, street driving) and ET slicks at the track for ultimate traction) I believe the stock tires provide an excellent "fuse" to protect the expensive driveline in the Viper.

 

[GTS Dean]

Has anyone ever tried using the oft-maligned Michelin Club Slick at the strip? (335-35-R17)

 

[Greg D]

Now the replacement clutch is gone in 1
yr and wasn't abused as much as the original.

I use M/Ts streets. They bite like a slick
and leaving at 5500 it noses over unless I
ride the clutch a little

Paul, are you saying "leaving at 5500 RPM" and "riding the clutch" is not abusing the clutch?

Bad GTS, I agree completely, it's just not worth replacing diffs or trasmissions (HD half shafts should be on all Vipers that spend considerable time at the track.) even for 5 to 6 tenths off your ET.
One would think that any Viper with a decent short time (1.4's or better) should be using Pro Gears (prob not available for the Viper diff) when you consider the car's weight and power potential, but then you couldn't drive it very far on the street.

 

[pauls]

Sure it's working the clutch some, but the original 96 took it for three years. The replacement lasted one year and maybe 10 runs! As 1 BadGTS's drvier, Evan, will tell ya, to go fast you have to ride the clutch out to launch a Viper on street tires or slicks to manage either the spin on streets or to ease the shock on the driveline on slicks. If your on slicks you must master the same technique unless you idle out and hit it=No ET big MPH. Whether it's tenths a lap or tenths in ET i want to see what the car is capable of. I leave at 5500 at the drags, easy the clutch in. Locked up in the first 20'. I'm not slipping through first gear. Car has 60fts of 1.45 goes 11.05@124 with a stock motor. Halfshafts, HDs last 30 to 40 runs under these conditions. I've never broken rear end or trans. You can think of the u joints in a HD shaft as a fuse. I'd rather replace them than a trans. As for 1 Bad, If I had all that power and investment in my car, Don't you think you'd want to know how quick it'd go! **** , puts some tires on it and lay one down.