First Viper, PPI tomorrow few questions.

[byron69]

Looking to buy a 98 GTS with 23K on the clock. I have heard that a compression test is a must do to possible overheating/block damage.
<u>My question's are:</u>

1)What items to check/request to Viper Tec?

2)Can a PPI also check frame damage?

3)Car runs strong but at higher rpm's(sometimes)hear pinging (pebble in a can)?

4)What should temperature gauge read (hottest normal) in stop and go traffic?

All Viper Wiz Kid's help a novice out.

Thanks.

 

[byron69]

Bump for help.

 

[carguy07]

This may help. Click Here

You should be able to see frame damage as it is usually half ass fixed.

Pinging would concern me, could be bad gas, overheating, could be a heads and cam upgrade gone wrong, carbon in the combustion chamber, etc. The damage that it can cause is a big deal. At least it has forged pistons.

Temp gauge should never hit red. It may have air in the cooling system letting it over heat and causing the pinging?

 

[byron69]

Thanks for the response , I really appreciate all the feedback I can get.

The tech mentioned that the pinging can also come from poor gas quality (only 91 OCT here) and current owner only drove car 1k miles in the last year.

A friend of mine who has owned a 96 GTS for several years told me when he test drove this car that it runs strong.

No head and cam upgrades that I know of. Only intake, headers, R/T cats and cat-back.

I have noticed small black splatter on the garage floor where the exhaust hits.

I have requested a full inspection at a dealer that all local VCA members go. The inspection I requested is a compression test, frame and a full diagnostic on the pinging.

Outside of this I can't really check anything else and have to rely on what the PPI shows.

Any other feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

1)What items to check/request to Viper Tec?

Get the dealership to do one of their "75 point" inspections (or whatever they have)...it should include brakes, fluid levels, battery (prob will cost you more since the back wheel has to come off), etc. I had this done to mine prior to my purchase and I think they charged 1 hour labor.

4)What should temperature gauge read (hottest normal) in stop and go traffic?

As long as you're not in the red, you're fine. Thats straight from the mouth of the guy who trains Viper techs in GA. But just for comparison, my car will be just to the right of the 1/2 way mark almost all the time regardless of temp or traffic conditions

 

[byron69]

Thank you for your help and response.

The ppi results came out very good, the compression test came back at 130-135 on all cylinders the tech said it was very good but I don't know what is normal for 23k miles.

No leaks and or items worn.

What do you guys think?

 

[AZTVR]

I think I'd still worry a little about the pinging unless someone put regular gas in it. I have never heard pinging from my car in any kind of load condition, using 91 octane, and I haven't read about that kind of problem in these forums, except on modified cars. I doubt that it is a serious problem; but, I'd want it gone before purchasing the car so that there are no nagging doubts. What did the tech say about the pinging?

 

[byron69]

The tech said it could also be caused by the fuel sitting in the car so long (only 1k in a year) and when he ran it and I ran it home I/he could not hear it anymore.

Maybe me adding fuel and its current running stopped it.

What do you think of the compression results?

 

[Janni]

We used to have to be VERY careful with detonation with 91 octane. And - if the fuel has sat for months - it degrades at about 1 point per month, as well.

Get some good fuel in there and carry some octane boost. DO NOT lug the engine or slam the throttle down in 5th gear - that'll be the worst.

I really don't think that Vipers like less than 93.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Thank you for your help and response.

The ppi results came out very good, the compression test came back at 130-135 on all cylinders the tech said it was very good but I don't know what is normal for 23k miles.

No leaks and or items worn.

What do you guys think?

Results from my car when it had 59k on it (which Chuck Tator said was just fine):

Cylinder 1: 150
Cylinder 2: 145
Cylinder 3: 150
Cylinder 4: 140
Cylinder 5: 150
Cylinder 6: 140
Cylinder 7: 150
Cylinder 8: 140
Cylinder 9: 145
Cylinder 10: 140

 

[byron69]

So what is average (normal) cylinder compression?