Fluid sucking tools info - Vacula

[slaughterj]

2 Vipers Chuck recently posted about using Vacula fluid sucking tools, but when I went to their website, they were just distributors, not sellers to end-users. I sent them an email about ways to get their products, and they sent back an email with the following sources (mostly Snap-On):

Cornwell Customer Service
800-321-8356

Mac Tools
800-MAC-TOOLS

Matco Tools
866-289-8665

Snap-on
Eastern Region
Boston – 800-879-3322
Philadelphia – 800-926-5544

Southern Region
Dallas – 800-756-3344
Atlanta – 800-947-6655

Midwestern Region
Chicago – 877-762-7662

Western Region
Sacramento – 800-865-1199

National Customer Service
877-762-7661

Snap-on Canada
Western Canada – 800-263-8665
Eastern Canada – 800-655-8665

 

[slaughterj]

Here's the info of the guy who sent me the above info:


Chris Pottala
[email protected]
Customer Service
Vacula Automotive Products
847-406-4480

 

[V10 MOJO]

turkey baster, turkey baster.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

MUCH better then the Vacula is part #85700 Brake Fluid Extractor from www.griotsgarage.com $69.95 and well worth it.

 

[HP]

60cc syringe from local pharmacy - $1.00 clear tubing from Home Depot $2.97

** the syringe is a typical injection type syringe, without the needle.

 

[Ron]

May I suggest ENCO as a very cost effective source for a Vacula. Search under part number 240-5175, cost is $136.74. It's the Universal Automatic Fluid Extractor System and as such can be used for brakes, clutches, transmission, rears, power steering, etc.

You can purchase seperately the little rubber brake bleeder ******, (which comes with the dedicated $213.46 Vacula Brake Bleeder system part number 240-5174) but you don't need it as you can just slide the hose over the bleeder as is. You can have a dedicated hose for brake fluid too if you like.

I use both the Vacula Universal and the Motive Pressure Bleeder depending on the vehicle and like them both. If you want the Vacula, save the $70.00 bucks and go with the Universal.......

p.s. I'm no doctor, but I don't think a 60cc syringe will be able to pull enough vacuum to bleed brakes properly and while the Griots product I'm sure works very well, I don't see why it's "much" better than a Vacula unless cost is taken into account and / or you don't have an air compressor.

 

[95Viper]

Turkey baster works perfect for power steering, clutch, master cylinder, and antifreeze. Why bother with anything else?
Oh, Motive pressure bleeder for brake fluid cannot be replaced by turkey baster.

 

[Ron]

Unless you have other plans for your turkey baster, I fail to see how you can successfully bleed your brakes, clutch or Viper cooling system overflow bottle with it. Power steering, yes perhaps.

Bleeding by definition is a complete and total fluid exchange. It's not sucking out the master cylinders, replacing with new fluid and hoping it dilutes the old fluid to the point where it's viable.......

 

[Ulysses]

Ditto

 

[95Viper]

You need something to **** fluid from reservoirs of power steering, clutch, brake and antifreeze tanks. Turkey baster is perfect.

I remove and refill 3 times for power steering and clutch instead of a total bleed each year and I feel this is the best method for me. Maybe some day I'll try to actually totally bleed the clutch.

Antifreeze is self explainatory and I use the turkey baster in combination with the Motive pressure for the brakes.

 

[Ron]

Craig,

I used to do the same as you for the clutch then did a real bleed with the Vacula (though any vacuum source will work) from the slave cylinder bleeder. I was amazed by the color of the fluid that came out. Very dark and a lot of particulates.

Not sure how much of an issue it is, but made me feel better at least.....

 

[Fred(DrivingSchool)Kinder]

Stainless Steel Turkey baster $9.95

 

[95Viper]

Ron, I might do that...what's the process?

 

[ViperJoe]

did a real bleed with the Vacula (though any vacuum source will work) from the slave cylinder bleeder.

Ron,
So did you capture the old at the slave bleeder and add new at the master cylinder?

 

[Ron]

Craig;

I'll post the procedure with pictures this weekend.

Joe;

Yes, you pull from the slave bleeder and refill the master.

 

[obaa996]

If you have access to an air compressor, you can buy a vacuum pump from harbor freight (ITEM 3952-5VGA) for $15. Very convenient, although I don't know if it's powerful enough to pull gear oil from the diff.

On a side note, why wouldn't you just remove the diff cover when changing the diff lube? It's not too hard to do, and you can really clean out the housing while you're at it (I'm surprised they didn't recommend doing this in the how-to on adding a drain plug.). I'm assuming that the D44 on the Viper is the basically the same as the one in my Jeeps (other than the housing is aluminum and it is setup for IRS. Come to think of it, is there any reason why an off-road shop couldn't do the gears on a Viper? My 4x4 mechanic must do a couple of regears every week (he's very good at setup), and he's a lot less $$$ than I've seen floating around for the Viper specific ones. My last Jeep cost $1k for f&r gears, including Dana gears, rebuild kit with Timken bearings, and labor....

 

[Ron]

To get the cover off, you have to take the rear out. IRS mounting technique is the reason.

 

[obaa996]

Ah.....

 

[Ron]

The way I bleed the clutch is as follows:

Remove most of the fluid in the clutch master via your favorite sucking method, i.e turkey baster, Vacula, etc. Refill with clean fresh DOT 3 / 4 fluid such as Valvoline Synthetic.

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Raise car, get underneath and find the clutch bleeder fitting, which is directly above the clutch fluid quick connect located where the line enters the bell housing on the drivers side in front of the trans. (see photo). The bleeder is shrouded with a rubber sleeve that you'll need to press back in order to reach hex. As I remember, 1/2" box end wrench is what you want. Force on the vacuum hose, (again from whatever you're favorite vacuum source is), crack open the bleeder and **** away. Obviously, make sure you don't pull too much fluid at one time or you'll drain the master and pull air.

When clean fluid is coming through, tighten the bleeder (don't remember the torque, but safe to say snuggly rather than "with force"), pull back the rubber sleeve, refill the master, cap it and you're done.

Remember to cover all painted surfaces near the master as brake fluid will eat paint.