98viperGTS
Viper Owner
Does anyone have one of these sitting around. I can't afford to spend 700 bucks on one of these.
FLUIDYNE Racing Radiator 97-98 Viper
- Thread starter 98viperGTS
- Start date
ruckdr
Enthusiast
How about $625 for Ron Davis Radiator from Parts Rack - you won't be sorry.
http://partsrack.blastmart.com/customer/search.php?substring=radiator
Later,
http://partsrack.blastmart.com/customer/search.php?substring=radiator
Later,
98viperGTS
Viper Owner
I noticed that the Ron Davis is a 2 row and the Fluidyne is a 3 row. Does that make a big difference?
ruckdr
Enthusiast
Do a search; much discussion about radiators on the forum. I have the Ron Davis from JonB at Parts Rack. It was a drop in with no Modifications necessary (Gen1 with upgraded Gen2 fan on my car). Installed 180 deg. thermostat, and temperature very seldom gets to where fan comes on - what is that about 210 deg. I run at the track on HOT days ant it stays cool.
JonB can give you all the specifics about the radiator and why it is so good.
Later,
JonB can give you all the specifics about the radiator and why it is so good.
Later,
REDSLED
Enthusiast
I have had both the Ron Davis and Fluidyne and they are pretty much the same performance wise. The problem is not the radiator (the stock one is sufficient) it is the air flow that is getting to them. The front fascia kit that Sean Roe sells will lower your radiator temps much more than upgrading the radiator. The Roe Kit will fix the air flow problem so you can keep your stock radiator in place.
ruckdr
Enthusiast
REDSLED,
You said in part:
Agree, the stock one is sufficient, unless it is plugged, or not flowing as mine was, which was 10 years old, and low miles. Using a IR temp thermometer, showed sporatic temperatures across the radiator. My temp would get to the right mark before the red, and past almost to the red mark. In traffic, just sitting, it would climb to up there also. Replaced radiator (Ron Davis) and went to 180 deg. thermostat, and all is fixed (1 year now). Now, it's like look at the temp gauge once, and forget it - well you know what I mean, it is no longer a concern.
Later,
You said in part:
Agree, the stock one is sufficient, unless it is plugged, or not flowing as mine was, which was 10 years old, and low miles. Using a IR temp thermometer, showed sporatic temperatures across the radiator. My temp would get to the right mark before the red, and past almost to the red mark. In traffic, just sitting, it would climb to up there also. Replaced radiator (Ron Davis) and went to 180 deg. thermostat, and all is fixed (1 year now). Now, it's like look at the temp gauge once, and forget it - well you know what I mean, it is no longer a concern.
Later,
ViperJames
Enthusiast
Wow this is really great information. Thanks for sharing.
98viperGTS
Viper Owner
That is the reason that I am asking. Right now if I am driving the temp gauge is about center when I come to a stop it starts to rise to the mark that is before the redline mark but comes back down. Then when I take off it starts to climb back up to the mark before the redline mark and comes back down when cruising. The only think that I worry about is the stop and go traffic keeps it moving between center and the mark before redline.
RobZ
Viper Owner
Stock is not fine for track driving. My stock GTS runs hot after about 6 or 7 laps in New Mexico.
SPAL make a pulse width modulated fan controller that has programmable on & off temps. It uses the factory coolant temp sensor. It will vary the speed of the fan based on engine temperature which is supposed to help maintain a more consistent temp. So in theory, you shouldn't see the large swings in temp. Has anyone tried one?
SPAL Fan Controller
SPAL Fan Controller
REDSLED
Enthusiast
RobZ, I'm guessing that you don't have the Roe kit on your car. Stock is fine if you have the Roe Kit. Like I said before, it is an air flow issue, not a radiator issue. Increased air flow to ANY radiator needs to be increased on the Viper.
http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=4&idproduct=228
Dave's Big Brakes
Enthusiast
What Redsled said
I have the lower airbox also it reduces temp big time
BUT takes some really BIG Ones
to cut the hole in the lower fascia One of the best mods for the money
Big Brake Dave
I have the lower airbox also it reduces temp big time BUT takes some really BIG Ones to cut the hole in the lower fascia One of the best mods for the money Big Brake Dave
Disturbed
Viper Owner
My car would get a bit warm after I built the motor. So I put in a RD radiator and 180 T-stat. Now it's fine. Even when it's 95+ outside and I do a 2mile blast from 80-180 and hold at 180 for approx 3/4 to 1mi. The temp NEVER gets above 195-200.
Maybe I need to try that roe kit as well. If I had the balls and enough tarmac, bet I could break 200mph.
Maybe I need to try that roe kit as well. If I had the balls and enough tarmac, bet I could break 200mph.
98viperGTS
Viper Owner
I am curious about this as well.
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ruckdr
Enthusiast
Maybe some useful information here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPAL...ryZ33600QQihZ020QQitemZ300121500877QQtcZphoto
http://www.streetortrack.com/Spal-Electronic-Fan-Controller-pr-20794.html
http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/-p-226.html?osCsid=317ef9838b14ec74d7a679e33f8dac61
http://www.a1electric.com/spal/faninfo.htm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPAL...ryZ33600QQihZ020QQitemZ300121500877QQtcZphoto
http://www.streetortrack.com/Spal-Electronic-Fan-Controller-pr-20794.html
http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/-p-226.html?osCsid=317ef9838b14ec74d7a679e33f8dac61
http://www.a1electric.com/spal/faninfo.htm
