jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
Man that would be great. From what I here mine was done at porline also. Can you email it?
Found 2 Metal Shavings in oil. What now?
- Thread starter jmillsUT28
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Black Moon
Enthusiast
Proline does all it's builds from what I heard. Wish you were closer. Mine's off the lift. Keep us posted.
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jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
The heads look great. Looks like they crower. Dropping the pan next.
Could it be from a bearing in the paxton?
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
Well not good news. Looks like the crank has been rubbing on something. I have pictures. Going to post in about 5 minutes.
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
What would this crank be hitting?
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Rod. When I bent a rod it smacked the journal. The little end of the rod where the wrist pin is fitted is where mine made contact...
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Billet mains look sweet however!!
Do you have the correct wrist pin location dimension for your year car? There is a difference, I believe if you used an early Gen II piston you will have interference issues with your car. It looks like the pistons are shaving the counterweights. Wasn't there any noise? How do the pistons look and is the damage to all the pistons if there is damage.
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99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
I would pull that piston/rod out, get a replacement and if everything checks out, re-install and drive on.
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
No detonation. I drove it today and it ran great. Going to take the head off to see what I can find.
Greg Good Cylinder Heads
Enthusiast
I can't tell for sure, need better pics, but the counterweight on that crank *looks* like it may have been welded and ground on to get it to balance. I wonder if a little of it was was flaking off?
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
Ok found the number 9 piston has a chunk missing right where the grounded spot is on the counterweight. Will post a pic in 5.
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
I could see where a piece has been bouncing around in there some. That was the only damage that I could see. Have yet to find the piece of that piston...
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
So what would cause a piston to hit the counterweight?
Something is bent or incorrect parts
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Car has a lot of miles on it since the build.
Take it out and get it checked out. While the head is off, get that hole checked to. If there was any contact between the valve and piston, you should see the contact marks on the top of the piston.
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
It got to late last night so I'm going to take the head off tonight and see what I can find.
If I find that the rod is bent and replace it with a new piston, rings, rod, and bearings should I be good to go? I know it is hard to see from the picture but do you think the counterweight is fine? Does not look like it took much metal off of it at all.
If I find that the rod is bent and replace it with a new piston, rings, rod, and bearings should I be good to go? I know it is hard to see from the picture but do you think the counterweight is fine? Does not look like it took much metal off of it at all.
Russ M
Enthusiast
I know you probably dont want to hear this but you will need to take the motor apart and at the very least balance the crank again. Damage does not look horrible but you never know until its inspected. The only conclusion that I can think off is that the rod bent and it was enough to start causing the contact, but at this point everything is just guessing.
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
You are correct Russ, I do not want to hear that! ha
Black Moon
Enthusiast
I would be afraid that metal got into your bearings. I would at least take everything apart and inspect all your bearings. I don't think you can reuse your rod bolts but I would speak to an expert about that. you should we able to do everything from underneath unless you damaged your crank. I know that's not what you want to hear but I would rather be safe than sorry later.
the first time i blew my engine the same damage was done to the piston and the skirts were broke. the reason on mine was a bent rod. the reason the rod bent was the bearing im told. it just kept pounding and finally bent the rod.
search around....a lot of guys have just replaced the rod and piston with good luck. Baz recently did all of his. i was told if the rest are good, i could have replaced just that rod and piston (all bearings too) and i would have been fine.
search around....a lot of guys have just replaced the rod and piston with good luck. Baz recently did all of his. i was told if the rest are good, i could have replaced just that rod and piston (all bearings too) and i would have been fine.
*IF* the rod is not bent and cocked in the bore causing it to contact the counterweight, the next best estimate as to cause is a piece of foreign material that was large enough to get caught between the piston boss and the weight. My best guess: oil pan cover screw. I just had an engine come through here in the fall that had a screw somehow get sucked into the rotating assembly, and was smacked between the weight and piston boss. Broke off more pieces, which ended up doing the same thing to other cylinders towards the front of the engine. Was quite a mess...
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
Quick question. The manual says I need to do the fuel system pressure release procedure. With this I have to pull the fuel pump relay then try to start the car till itstall. Well the valve covers are off and the oil pan is off. Do I need to do this? Is there another way to do this? I have fuel rails by the way. Sorry if this is hard to read bc I'm posting this on my phone.
Put a rag/towel around the fuel line before you remove it and you'll be fine. The goal is to not spray fuel in your eyes/mouth.
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Post some pics of the head while you're at it. I'm curious as to how those Stage III hand ported babies look!!
What is the clearance (between skirt and counterweight) on the other side of of the bad piston. In other words rotate the crank and see what the minimum clearance is, you can then compare it to a good piston. That damage does not look like it was done by debris, that groove in the counterweight was cut over several revolutions.
Tator advised me to pull the fuel pump relay in the trunk, start the Viper and let it run until it dies. Then disconnect the fuel line using a rag underneath. Remember to reinstall the fuel pump relay when you're all done.
