RobZilla
Enthusiast
Alright, so eventually I want to go with forced induction. My '00 obviously has cast guts. What do I need to change on the inside to achieve a set up that can withstand forced induction???? 



Forged pistons are not absolutely necessary for FI. Many on here are running the Roe setup on lower boost with no problems. Even Sean will tell you the 5# setup is completely safe for a creampuff motor.
Now if you want to turn up the boost and/or run N2O, forged pistons are a must. But even the stock forged pistons are not bullet proof (close, but they will break). Aftermarket forged pistons are needed for high boost applications.
If you don't want to get into the motor, then you'll be relegated to low boost. You can run a Roe setup on a completely stock motor. The add-ons you are talking about only enhance the power and driveability of the supercharged car.
Roller rockers are a nice upgrade for the higher rpms. They add a lot of breathing up top and are more for peak power.
I'm really not sure upgraded lifters are a popular mod on these cars
The 708 cam is a good, inexpensive upgrade for the creampuffs. But there are also some nice custom cams that will add more power. However, I was told by both Sean and Chuck that the 708 is best for a low boost Roe setup, and no significant gains will come from the more expensive custom grinds.
This is some of the things I've learned and experienced with the cast piston motors, since that is what my car has (even though it is a 97).
It sounds like you have a good start to an awesome setup.I've got several mods already. Actually a bunch and I'm gettin a little low on options other than forced induction. My concern was just how much I can do with cast internals. Based on Bottles reply and now yours, there is quite a bit I can do still.
B&B Headers, Corsa Cat Back, B&M Short Shifter, Vec I, Smooth Tubes, K&N, Eibachs n Caps, Rear Diffuser Blades, 2005 Tranny... I'm sure I missed something.
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Anything Steve says on running a Roe on a creampuff car is as good as gold. Between he and DamnYankee, they pretty much know everything there is to know about running the Roe system on cast pistons. I absorbed most of my info on the S/C from listening to those two.I agree….no need for forged pistons with a basic 5 pound Roe set up (6.5 with w/m). I have 40,000 miles on such set ups and zero issues. If you go with a 5 pounder, HS roller rockers are plenty good. I believe that’s what Sean has had on his ‘mule’ car for many years now.
I kind of disagree with Ted on the half shaft upgrade....it's not always necessary, or needed......unless it is your intent is to drag race, do repetitive violent 2nd gear shifts, or run very sticky tires. There is no good reason to change the half shafts if running stock tires and a 5 pounder (even more power with stock tires). The tires are the shear pin. Violent 2nd gear shifts will break half shafts on a stock Viper. I’m on my 6th set of rear tires…..lots of spinning, autocrosses, road tracks, and probably a dozen or so ¼ mile passes….. Never had a half shaft issue. 83K miles.
To most, ‘ too much HP is never enough’ However; I am perfectly content with: 5 pound Roes, 96 PCM, Belanger headers, no cats, 3” Belanger exhaust, HS 1.7s with T&D push rods, Fidanza lightweight flywheel, 3.45 Unitrax differential, smooth tubes, filters, and the infamous Vipair (which absolutely lowers intake temp by about 15 degrees according to the VEC). I also upgraded the power steering pulley and bracket with Dave’s Big Brakes package. I do like the MGW short throw shifter as well……and Tom’s 40 MM brakes
If you go the Roe way, you need to buy a wideband O2 set up, regardless of who does the tuning. You’re running blind without it. Monitoring one side is sufficient unless you plan on running on the ragged edge of tuning….not recommended for a creampuff.
Steve
Eric,I'm in the middle of a cast to forged swap right now. Very similar to what BAZ is doing but not doing a cam swap. I had TD's and the ROE system installed already.
For a simple piston swap using the ROE/Arrow/Diamond custom stock replacement that will not require an engine rebalance, this is what you are minimally looking at:
10 custom Diamond pistons with rings and wrist pins: $1300.00
10 Rod bearings: $149.00
2 head gaskets: $65.00 (new MOPAR part number and pricing @ $32.00 each--sorry Sean!)
2 intake gaskets: $40.00
Now this is just around $1500.00 not including fluids and other misc small items/gaskets. It will probably be around $100 to get the new pistons/rings mounted on the OEM rods at a local engine shop. I'm also doing a DIY street port/polish on the heads with new valve seals (+$2.00 each) / retainers (+$2.00 a set ) and a three angle valve job ($169.00 for the valve job/resurface/reassembly). I think with all the other piddly little things I'm doing at the same time, I'll probably be around $2500.00 when I turn the key again.
This is just FYI from my perspective.
I agree….no need for forged pistons with a basic 5 pound Roe set up (6.5 with w/m). I have 40,000 miles on such set ups and zero issues. If you go with a 5 pounder, HS roller rockers are plenty good. I believe that’s what Sean has had on his ‘mule’ car for many years now.
I kind of disagree with Ted on the half shaft upgrade....it's not always necessary, or needed......unless it is your intent is to drag race, do repetitive violent 2nd gear shifts, or run very sticky tires. There is no good reason to change the half shafts if running stock tires and a 5 pounder (even more power with stock tires). The tires are the shear pin. Violent 2nd gear shifts will break half shafts on a stock Viper. I’m on my 6th set of rear tires…..lots of spinning, autocrosses, road tracks, and probably a dozen or so ¼ mile passes….. Never had a half shaft issue. 83K miles.
To most, ‘ too much HP is never enough’ However; I am perfectly content with: 5 pound Roes, 96 PCM, Belanger headers, no cats, 3” Belanger exhaust, HS 1.7s with T&D push rods, Fidanza lightweight flywheel, 3.45 Unitrax differential, smooth tubes, filters, and the infamous Vipair (which absolutely lowers intake temp by about 15 degrees according to the VEC). I also upgraded the power steering pulley and bracket with Dave’s Big Brakes package. I do like the MGW short throw shifter as well……and Tom’s 40 MM brakes
If you go the Roe way, you need to buy a wideband O2 set up, regardless of who does the tuning. You’re running blind without it. Monitoring one side is sufficient unless you plan on running on the ragged edge of tuning….not recommended for a creampuff.
Steve
Lots of great advice and suggestions. After taking a look at Baz's thread, I've got my mind set on a 5 lb Roe with some rockers. I don't race, but the idea of a SC just has my head turning.
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Anything Steve says on running a Roe on a creampuff car is as good as gold. Between he and DamnYankee, they pretty much know everything there is to know about running the Roe system on cast pistons. I absorbed most of my info on the S/C from listening to those two.
They probably have the most miles and tuning experience on a 5# Roe system of any owners out there.
Actually steve, I recommended halfshafts because of wheelhop. Sticky tires are good as they cut down on wheel hop.
The loops and halfshafts can save a lot of money as compared to busting those steel parts at highspeed. Just a safety thing.
Ted
Threads like this are the EXACT reason top line tuners like DLM do not due mail order .Just because a car is tuned correctly on a dyno (by a novice )in an ideal environment does not mean its in tune running HARD and HOT on a 100 degree day -TOTAL different animal.