Gen 2 stereo head unit upgrade

[KNG SNKE]

Nobody knows?

You have to be more specific. Wire in RCA jacks for what? Are you running an aftermarket amp or are you just trying to tap into the OEM speakers? I ran all new wiring and just went completely around the OEM amp. It is garbage in todays standards. OEM head units, even cheap ones provide more sound output than that amp does.

 

[costanZo]

I am looking to replace the head unit in my ACR, so I can have mp3 and bluetooth capabilities. I don't need anything fancy and like the Alpine unit below. Any ideas as to if it will work in my 2001 Viper and what all I will need to install it? I am thinking I will need the bluetooth module and a harness adaptor kit to wire it to the stock harness.

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

It will work fine. I had an Alpine Head Unit with mp3/bluetooth installed in my car back in the spring of 08 along with new subs, speakers, amps, cd-changer, radar etc.,.

 

[LifeIsGood]

First, after reading this thread...I'm assuming that you are only replacing the head unit...nothing more.

I just installed a new system in my 2001 RT/10. I left all the original wiring in place, but didn't use any of it, except that I tapped into the factory wiring harness for the head unit for 3 wires...

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• Illumination from my new head unit to orange wire (ILL) from the factory harness
• Power controlled by the ignition from ny new head unit to red/white striped wire (ACC) from the factory harness
• Power on at all times from my new head unit to pink wire (BAT) from the factory harness.

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I used the RCA cable leads from my new head unit (front speakers and sub), but I also connected them via new RCA cables to my new amp in the trunk. I'm not an expert, but I don't see how the RCA cable leads from your new head unit can be used with the factory wiring harness or DIN...maybe an installation expert could make a new harness, but I don't know how that would work with the factory amp.

 

[LifeIsGood]

Sorry for the sidebar here, but for those who have replaced their HUs, how did y'all install the new one? I bought my car with a stereo already in it, and it is attached to the car with cheap "custom" brackets. Does the original HU have mounting hardware that you can swap to the new radio?

The orginal head unit is installed using 2 attachment brackets, one on each side...

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I used them on my new head unit, with a little fabrication...

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[72hemi]

That's correct I am only replacing the head unit. So my question is on the 8 pin DIN plug it has wires for the amp and for the speakers. For the speaker wire do I just use the wires from the new head unit harness to connect to the 8 pin DIN or some how wire in to the RCA jacks on the back of the head unit (forgive me if this is a stupid question I am not a stereo or electrical guy)?

Thank you for those pictures, they help clear up some things.

 

[72hemi]

Also what's the park wire for on the stock head unit? And I noticed from the wiring diagram that the factory plug has 16 pins locations and only a handful of actual wires to it, does that mean they used a generic Chrysler radio harness plug which normally would have the speaker wires as well, but due to the amp they go to the 8 pin DIN plug instead?

Basically what I am trying to do is replace my stock head unit with an aftermarket one without cutting the harness. I want to manufacture my own adaptor harness to plug into the new head unit.

 

[KNG SNKE]

At one point there was someone on here who made an adapter for that DIN harness however the only way now I believe is to cut open that harness and tap the wires. You are better off running new speaker wire to each of your door speakers. Putting the signal from your new cd player through the OEM amp will not yield good results compared to running new wires to your door speakers directly from the cd player. The oem amp puts out minimal power and most aftermarket head units put out cleaner and more power. Its up to you though but it is worth the effort and not hard to do.

 

[Red Snake]

You should have a schematic on top of the your factory head unit that tells you what each harness wire is. Compare that to your new stereo schematic and you should be able to figure out how to make up your DIN adapter. If you can't figure it using the 2 schematics you need to take your car to an install shop and let them do it.

I also reused the factory amp with new speakers. I added a self powered subwoofer as an add on to the factory system. It sounds great now.

 

[72hemi]

First I am not running new wires, because I don't want to deal with it. As for needing to take it to an installer, not a chance for a couple of reasons, the first being odds are they will just cut into my stock harness which I don't want. I have read the schematic on top of my stock unit and have installed several aftermarket stereos in the past and am familiar with basic harnesses, my knowledge gap is around the RCA jacks, what they do and whether or not I need to incorporate them when I wire the new head unit since the car does have an amp (I have never installed a head unit on a car with an amp before).

 

[Red Snake]

First I am not running new wires, because I don't want to deal with it. As for needing to take it to an installer, not a chance for a couple of reasons, the first being odds are they will just cut into my stock harness which I don't want. I have read the schematic on top of my stock unit and have installed several aftermarket stereos in the past and am familiar with basic harnesses, my knowledge gap is around the RCA jacks, what they do and whether or not I need to incorporate them when I wire the new head unit since the car does have an amp (I have never installed a head unit on a car with an amp before).

You don't need to run RCA wires if you making a DIN adapter to the factory harness. They are an option, if you don't want to use the factory harness or run conventional speaker wires.

 

[72hemi]

That's what I needed to know, thanks.

What is the "park" wire on the factory harness?

 

[Red Snake]

That's what I needed to know, thanks.

What is the "park" wire on the factory harness?

I think the park wire is to prevent you from running a DVD player unless the car is parked. I don't have a DVD player on my head unit so it didn't apply to me. If you had to hook one up, I'm guessing it would probably be the hand brake indicator light.

 

[72hemi]

It's on the factory harness, which is what threw me.

 

[CWhiteRun]

It's on the factory harness, which is what threw me.

I wouldn't go with the cheaper alpines in your car. I tried the one with built in bluetooth and the sound quality was better than stock but not up to what I was expecting. Now the CDA-117 is the **** and is what I'm running now. Pair that with a good set of component speakers in the doors and a decent four channel amp in the rear and you're in business. The problem with all the add ons is the limited space to mount them. I did manage to get the bluetooth mic, parrot bluetooth add-on box, RCA cables, and USB ipod adapter mounted fairly hidden but it was no easy task. Look at some of my older posts for more info. The parametric EQ offered in the CDA-117 is hands down the best I have ever used. Crystal clear quality when paired with the other items I mentioned. I mounted my amp (more like sitting currently) in the area where the stock amp was....Ran the RCA cables from the headunit under the center console and through the fuel tank area trim to the amp....and then the outputs from the amp to the stock plug-in using tightly wound wire that I tinned with solder and pushed into the factory connector. No wires had to be cut and can be returned to stock if you ever want to. I even powered the four channel amp with the factory amp power plug. Very easy, but time consuming.

 

[CWhiteRun]

BTW...don't even bother with the S-video looking plug-in that runs from the stock head unit. Just unhook it and zip tie it out of the way. The wiring inside of the cladding looks to be about 1.1mm and there is absolutely NOTHING you can do with them. I looked for days to try to find a mating plug that I could at least fashion my own connector with to run from the Alpine through the factory wiring using the stock amp....but it's pointless. It's a dead standard and has literally zero support.

 

[72hemi]

I understand what everyone is saying about upgrading more than just the head unit and I appreciate the comments. For me I really don't care that much about the quality of the music (to some extent I do, but not to the point I will modify the system) all I care about is being able to play burned CD's which this new Alpine unit can do that and more. I'm not even going to hook up the bluetooth.

 

[BigBadViper]

My stock stereo sounds pretty good with the car off, but when i turn it on it makes a buzzing sound and gets louder with the RPMs of the car. I have an Alpine head unit to throw in. I put some new speakers in the front. My thoughts we ****ty amp and wiring.

I was thinking about going directly from the head unit to the speakers. How hard is it to rip out the old wires and amp. i dont' want to leave any extra weight or stuff in there.

 

[KNG SNKE]

Old amp just unplugs and no need to rip out the old wiring. It is not THAT heavy.

I was thinking about going directly from the head unit to the speakers. How hard is it to rip out the old wires and amp. i dont' want to leave any extra weight or stuff in there.[/QUOTE]

 

[CWhiteRun]

My stock stereo sounds pretty good with the car off, but when i turn it on it makes a buzzing sound and gets louder with the RPMs of the car. I have an Alpine head unit to throw in. I put some new speakers in the front. My thoughts we ****ty amp and wiring.

I was thinking about going directly from the head unit to the speakers. How hard is it to rip out the old wires and amp. i dont' want to leave any extra weight or stuff in there.

That's noise interference from the coil packs running through the factory wiring. Re-route your head unit ground to one of the rivets around your shifter opening and it should cure your problem.

 

[CWhiteRun]

I understand what everyone is saying about upgrading more than just the head unit and I appreciate the comments. For me I really don't care that much about the quality of the music (to some extent I do, but not to the point I will modify the system) all I care about is being able to play burned CD's which this new Alpine unit can do that and more. I'm not even going to hook up the bluetooth.

Okay, the only thing that you'll do different then it to run an 8 wire bundle (power/ground for four speakers) from the head unit to the chassis harness in the amp area and connect it up. That would be the easiest route....and that bundle would be a lost smaller than the four RCA cable bundle I have running through mine.

 

[nturner]

Going through this right now on a 2001 RT10. Installing an Alpine CDE-125BT. Has aux input, USB for thumb drive MP3's, Bluetooth and I-pod cable. $200.00 plus taxes and warranty (Ha). So far I have the thing hooked up and working. Bought a female 8 pin DIN from digikey for $5.00 and just clipped and replaced the other wires with crimps for bat, acc, ant, gnd, and Ill. Had to modify the mounting brackets from the OEM unit to fit on this one but only slightly. New unit had threads in the back for the rubber vibration dampener. Getting the unit back in without pinching any cables is a bit tricky but not impossible. Still have the OEM amp hooked up so turning volume to 2 almost blows crappy OEM speakers out. Will be bypassing amp tonight so I can turn it up to 11. Taking out the amp should shave another 4 lbs off the car. Once that is done I will probably look at some new door speakers since it seems generally agreed that this is the best mod you can make for improved sound.

I'm replacing the head unit because it quit and I like having some kind of audio on 1000 mile cruises. Bought a CDE-125BT for my truck and loved it so much I pulled the Viper unit to see if it would fit. 4 months from now when the entire car is torn apart to run RCA speaker cables you can all poke much fun at me.....

 

[LifeIsGood]

4 months from now when the entire car is torn apart to run RCA speaker cables you can all poke much fun at me.....

I replaced all of the components and ran all new wiring. I needed two RCA cables, one for the front speakers and the second for the sub. I used these that have two sets in one...Crutchfield - StreetWires - StreetWires Zero Noise 7 4-Channel Patch Cable.

I ran the RCA cable, the front speaker wires and the amp remote start wire on either side of the transmission tunnel, inside the cockpit...

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...up through a hole in the rear bulkhead. The hole was very small and was covered with some kind of tape. I had to bore it out with a stepped drill bit to get it big enough for all the wiring. I wrapped the wiring in split flex tubing before I put the viper back together. I also added a protective collar in the hole to keep the wires from fraying...

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The new wiring comes down through the rear bulkhead and into the driver side wheel well (this is where the original wiring also runs, but it comes up from the actual transmission tunnel)...

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...here is the wiring after I wrapped it in split flex tubing...

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...here is what the trunk looks like with the new amp and the new wiring...

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[Jeebs]

Great step by step. Thats exactly what i am planning to do with my gts. I just installed a new head unit, in the process of getting new components, either a 4 or 5ch amp and a 12in sub. Im planning on doing a fiberglass setup in the hatch for the sub.
My question is, did you have to run the wires down the center or could you have ran the wires down the sides. I have also bought the same stye RCA's as you, 2 in 1. Im just asking because im not really wanting to rip out my seats and consol?

 

[AFL in NJ]

Dear LifeIsGood,

Phenomenal work; nice job!

Regards,
Aaron

 

[LifeIsGood]

My question is, did you have to run the wires down the center or could you have ran the wires down the sides. I have also bought the same stye RCA's as you, 2 in 1. Im just asking because im not really wanting to rip out my seats and consol?

I removed the parts necessary to run the wiring down each side, but made the decision to run them down the middle because there was more room on each side of the center console. I'm fairly certain that they can be run down the sides, but I have a dead pedal on the driver side that kept me from being able to run the wiring on that side under the carpet down to and under the carpet just below the inner sill plates. I'm not sure that the wiring can be run under the inner sill plates...it might be too thick. The wiring would probably need to run under the carpet just below the inner sill plates...in my opinion.

 

[Jeebs]

Thanks LifeIsGood, i guess i will soon find out.
And great job again with all your detail.