As you mention when using properly sized enclosures damping factor is not as noticeable because the speaker for lack of description has more room to breathe, i.e. the sound waves can disperse and not be directed directly back into the speaker causing the cone to potentially distort it shape and/or oscillate. In our case damping factor can help mitigate this issue particularly as the volume levels increase. As I mentioned before it is just one of many parameters to consider when dealing with our limited space. As noted my door speakers are not sub-woofers. They are the older discontinued models (bass/mid driver + tweeter) that are a direct fit (with small trimming of door panels) to our original factory units. I forgot the model but have the box somewhere and will post if I can find it. I used JL’s because the forum said they are one of the few that fit ( 3 screw mounting) and sounded reasonably well.
Gen 3-4 Sub box
- Thread starter billseast
- Start date
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd
Not sure if you used it in the past, but if you did not, load it up and fire away. You will get some interesting info regarding the expected performance of your subwoofer in specific enclosure, required power and expected output, assuming the manufacturer did not fudge the T/S parameters and you can accurately estimate box enclosure. Sounds to me like your door speakers are the JL XR650 components which are actually pretty decent and with fair amount of midbass output. I recall the tweeters were a bit bright, especially off axis but not bad overall. They are not really meant for three screws but have plenty of holes to make three screw configuration possible.
Now that you mention it I may have needed to drill an extra hole but overall they fit in with minimal problems. Also I think only certain speakers fit in the door due to speaker depth (magnet structures). I'll have to add the program to the other ones I have used in the past, heck once the box development is done then you have to make the cross-overs...and that's a whole other set of equations
You guys have gone over my head with the science of sound. I just know how to make to boxes and somehow they sound good. The GTO boxes have been the biggest seller for me since the car has such a small trunk.Now that you mention it I may have needed to drill an extra hole but overall they fit in with minimal problems. Also I think only certain speakers fit in the door due to speaker depth (magnet structures). I'll have to add the program to the other ones I have used in the past, heck once the box development is done then you have to make the cross-overs...and that's a whole other set of equations
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Science helps you avoid mistakes and understand why you do what you do
I guess it all depends on how critical you are about the stuff you do. You may be surprised how many times, you may end up with solutions that are more effective. This stuff is not very complicated, some basic laws of physics and acoustics can set you apart from many other builders. BTW, I have a few Planet Audio amps, great stuff for the money.I have dealt with large variety of shallow speakers, some better than others, very fond of Illusion Audio drivers for pure output and Morel for sound quality. I actually got burnt out from doing too much car audio stuff. With that said, why don't you look at active crossovers instead of building your own passives? Way more flexible and easier to set up correctly, not to mention more efficient as well.Now that you mention it I may have needed to drill an extra hole but overall they fit in with minimal problems. Also I think only certain speakers fit in the door due to speaker depth (magnet structures). I'll have to add the program to the other ones I have used in the past, heck once the box development is done then you have to make the cross-overs...and that's a whole other set of equations
Viktimize
Enthusiast
Yes, he will be using JL brand door speakers, LOL.
Science helps you avoid mistakes and understand why you do what you do
Yeah i like the Planet Audio stuff its good sound for cheap price. I'm a authorized reseller of Planet Audio and a few other brands. I just sell more sub boxes than i do any other products.
Viktimize
Enthusiast
Yes exactly. Just like I asked about in my post. Still not sure what that has to do with fitting subs in the doors like you were talking about?
LOL, I was simply explaining how much of a chore it is to run subwoofers in the doors.
This is a picture of a door without glass or door panel. You can see there is not much room to add anything without major work.
This is were the stock speaker goes
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This is were the stock speaker goes
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I gotta look for some pics to give you an idea what can be done.
Thanks for the pics. Can the lower part be separated from the top?
Based on my past experiences, and I would have to verify the part with clearances, the front opening where the 6.5 resides, could be used for well aimed 4 inch midrange in a pod, using the cavity to vent back of the driver into the door cavity, high passing the driver at about 300-350 depending on the slope of the filter and low passing the driver at about 2500 Hz. The highs could vbe handled running two way, main tweets bandpassed between 3000k and about 10k using dash locations and running supertweeters in the pillars from 10k up. The issue of overlap and underlap and phase correction could be solved afterwards. The midbass would have to go behind the midranges in the doors in sealed enclosures to prevent resonance related rattles and interference with midranges that are freely vented into the door.
For sound reinforcement, there could be a summed mono midbass bandpass above the main midbass and below its high pass, using rear speaker locations. The sub could be vented through the bulkhead openings from the trunk.
I am not sure if anyone would be willing to tackle project like this but who knows. If the door panel lower half can come apart, this would make things so much easier for finishine later on. This would be one kick azzz system in a viper. I've been thinking about it but I am not sure if I want to gut my car out from the inside and start building my own stuff... Just a few thoughts I wanted to share.
For sound reinforcement, there could be a summed mono midbass bandpass above the main midbass and below its high pass, using rear speaker locations. The sub could be vented through the bulkhead openings from the trunk.
I am not sure if anyone would be willing to tackle project like this but who knows. If the door panel lower half can come apart, this would make things so much easier for finishine later on. This would be one kick azzz system in a viper. I've been thinking about it but I am not sure if I want to gut my car out from the inside and start building my own stuff... Just a few thoughts I wanted to share.
Then they could be undone? I am thinking along the ways of reupholstering the panels afterwayrds or maybe covering them with CF. Could look stock and cool at the same time.
I have taken them out and sometimes they go back in without to much trouble
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Here is what I am talking about. I gotta look for the pics of 10 inch drivers in the doors but I hope you catch the meaning of what I described.
This is for Moel 9inch woofers, later I modified this to run 10inch Tang Band 10 inch shallow subwoofers with way more excursion. Too bad people like you are not closer to me, LOL.
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This is for Moel 9inch woofers, later I modified this to run 10inch Tang Band 10 inch shallow subwoofers with way more excursion. Too bad people like you are not closer to me, LOL.
I got the box all done and put in my pioneer 8" shallow mount sub in. It sounded real good way better than the stock sub for sure. The sub even hit a good amount of real low end stuff. I' going to build on for my buddies viper he wants to keep the stock sub.
agdetail
Enthusiast
wouldnt subs behind both seats and mids in the middle make the car sound much better?
i found the sub in the middle is too much in your face
i found the sub in the middle is too much in your face
It should not matter where it is, if you think it is too much in your face it is either because it plays too high or you do not have enough midbass. The closer the sub is to you, the less power you will need to make it sound loud, this is a good thing because you introduce less distortion. Mids in the center is actually a horrible idea because you will lose imaging and your stage will be non existent. Anything above low bass and below fairly high frequencies is very directional localized.
agdetail
Enthusiast
learned somthing new thanks.
so if i were to go for sq, would the bass go better in the passenger footwell or center of the seats?
where is a better place for midbass for the rear. i want a nice sound stage along with a surround sound
so if i were to go for sq, would the bass go better in the passenger footwell or center of the seats?
where is a better place for midbass for the rear. i want a nice sound stage along with a surround sound
The sub can be anywhere as long as the sound waves can get into the cabin of the car with you. Bass is non directional so you cant tell where its coming from as long as the crossover is set to the correct low frequencies. Passenger foot well box is very easy to make as long as your passengers are short.
SQ, huh? If you are really into sound quality, you bought the wrong car, LOL. Floor location will allow you to use a larger sub and at least some form of corner loading and it will be easier to do BUT you will be adding weight to your car in wrong place and losing leg room. Take your pick I guess.
agdetail
Enthusiast
Had some audio eqipment left from my car I sold.
Mcintosh headunit amp and brax speakers. I'm about to complete everthing and hoping to have it installed by next summer.
I been reading a lot on diymobile audio but there isn't much on 2 seater conveertibles. But most people say to add a center speaker, subs behind seat or foot well, and speakers in the center and corner rear behind the seats
I had a chance to drive a my families sls for a whole week and I was amazed at the sound quality. Only thing lacking was bass but the quality was surprising for a factory bo
Mcintosh headunit amp and brax speakers. I'm about to complete everthing and hoping to have it installed by next summer.
I been reading a lot on diymobile audio but there isn't much on 2 seater conveertibles. But most people say to add a center speaker, subs behind seat or foot well, and speakers in the center and corner rear behind the seats
I had a chance to drive a my families sls for a whole week and I was amazed at the sound quality. Only thing lacking was bass but the quality was surprising for a factory bo
Convertibles and sound quality are mutually exclusive. Price of equipment and its quality cannot fix install and acoustic issues, no matter how expensive the equipment may be. LOL at DIYMA. Best thing for you to do is to read up on issues of acoustics instead of going by opinions of others, especially on that forum.
agdetail
Enthusiast
thats what i thought. thanks for the help.
ill do some test spots and hopefully find a nice sweet spot for all the speakers
ill do some test spots and hopefully find a nice sweet spot for all the speakers
