Anyone, help! I have just purchased my second Gen I R/T10 and had door poppers installed in her. The poppers worked flawlessly for a week, then I locked and unlocked the door once. Now, the lock mechanism dosen't work. I tried to pull the door panel off and can see the linkage bars moving to and fro, but I believe the lock itself has been damaged. I've concidered unbolting the door at it's hinges, but have been advised not to as this will only damage the paint and will not free the door. I can't unscrew the door panel, as several of the screws are unaccesable w/o opening the door. I've tried calling the Viper shop in Santa Monica, but they won't return my calls. Help, my baby is dying out here! (Not to mention my labido) If anyone has any ideas, please help.
Help! My door lock mechanism is stuck! What to do?
- Thread starter Leaf001
- Start date
varanus
Enthusiast
I don't have an answer for you, but as far as Dan Cragin, try calling after the weekend. A lot of people at Buttonwillow this weekend and shops are closed.
MES
Enthusiast
I don't think it has anything to do with your lock, I think it may be your alarm. Try resetting the alarm, do a search because I don't know how to do it on a Gen I
MES: The alarm wasn't connected to the locking mechanism, only to the door release latch. I think when I locked the door, the lock may have been slighly tweeked due to solenoid. I may have snapped a small piece or tooth off the lock somewhere. That's all I can fathom at least. Thanks for you help.
Varanus: Will do, thanks for the info.
Varanus: Will do, thanks for the info.
ruckdr
Enthusiast
Leaf,
Don't know how to get in (maybe a can opener -- NOT), BUT IN THE FUTURE, DO NOT USE THE DOOR LOCK. The door pop WILL NOT unlock the doors mechanical lock, it will only open the latch via the solenoid triggered from the key fob.
Check out the "ILLUSTRATED UPGRADES" at the top of this forum, and look at "DOOR SOLENOIDS", Door Pop Installation, for future reference.
Good luck,
Don't know how to get in (maybe a can opener -- NOT), BUT IN THE FUTURE, DO NOT USE THE DOOR LOCK. The door pop WILL NOT unlock the doors mechanical lock, it will only open the latch via the solenoid triggered from the key fob.
Check out the "ILLUSTRATED UPGRADES" at the top of this forum, and look at "DOOR SOLENOIDS", Door Pop Installation, for future reference.
Good luck,
Flyng Low
VCA Member
HELP!!!
Has anyone figured out how to get into a closed door? I had read this months ago with interest, but my Son just did the same thing with my 94. He manually locked the doors then later tried to open with the popper (without unlocking).
The door won't open with popper or inside handle now. It seems like it is not completely latched because it rattles when you push it, but it's latched enough not to open even a crack.
I can't get to any of the screws to take the inner panels off to get to the mechanism. How has this been fixed by others?
Flyng Low
Has anyone figured out how to get into a closed door? I had read this months ago with interest, but my Son just did the same thing with my 94. He manually locked the doors then later tried to open with the popper (without unlocking).
The door won't open with popper or inside handle now. It seems like it is not completely latched because it rattles when you push it, but it's latched enough not to open even a crack.
I can't get to any of the screws to take the inner panels off to get to the mechanism. How has this been fixed by others?
Flyng Low
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Well hello gentlemen,
I had to fix this exact same problem on my 96 about 5 months ago, couldn't find any help on the boards. Got some hints, but ultimatly had to take off the door panel to get to the door lock. Now this is the tricky part, (I suggest you get a new lock before trying this), there is a release on the latch itself that can be actuated to release the door. Like an auto open, doesn't matter if the door is lock or not. You have to get to it by using a small screw driver bent slightly to move the latch. This is how I did it. The lock failed, and would not unlock. You must have a reference on how to make the latch work. Get a new lock! After I took off the old latch, it worked(WD-40), but I did not want to take the chance of it failing again so in goes the new one. There is NO OTHER WAY, that I saw, to get to the latch. Can't even take off the door, it is still attached to the strike bolt, email me if I can help futher, and I do have poppers also, good luck,
Mike
EDIT: You must take out the drivers seat to get to the door panel, and when you get as many of the screws out as possible, you may have to pull out the last screws under the top of the panel.
Second Edit: When mine failed, the dome light remained on all the time and drained the battery.
I had to fix this exact same problem on my 96 about 5 months ago, couldn't find any help on the boards. Got some hints, but ultimatly had to take off the door panel to get to the door lock. Now this is the tricky part, (I suggest you get a new lock before trying this), there is a release on the latch itself that can be actuated to release the door. Like an auto open, doesn't matter if the door is lock or not. You have to get to it by using a small screw driver bent slightly to move the latch. This is how I did it. The lock failed, and would not unlock. You must have a reference on how to make the latch work. Get a new lock! After I took off the old latch, it worked(WD-40), but I did not want to take the chance of it failing again so in goes the new one. There is NO OTHER WAY, that I saw, to get to the latch. Can't even take off the door, it is still attached to the strike bolt, email me if I can help futher, and I do have poppers also, good luck,
Mike
EDIT: You must take out the drivers seat to get to the door panel, and when you get as many of the screws out as possible, you may have to pull out the last screws under the top of the panel.
Second Edit: When mine failed, the dome light remained on all the time and drained the battery.
Flyng Low
VCA Member
Thanks Mike, and to Chuck Tator in New York for about the same advice over the phone. He said I may need to tear out the door panel at the rear where the screws are hidden, then repair it later. I'm going to open up the right door too for reference and also to take the d#%$ locking bar out. I'm going in....
Curt (Flyg Low)
PS: My mirror "dome" lights were on too, but I disconnected the wire harness to the mirror housing to keep from draining the battery.
Curt (Flyg Low)
PS: My mirror "dome" lights were on too, but I disconnected the wire harness to the mirror housing to keep from draining the battery.
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Hey Curt,
I can't stress how much help it was to have the new latch near by as a reference to get the door to release. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Mike
I can't stress how much help it was to have the new latch near by as a reference to get the door to release. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Mike
Flyng Low
VCA Member
Dear Mike and anyone who has worked with these door latches.
I managed to get the inner door panel loose enough to reach around to the latch. I took the seatbelt real out so I have good access to the whole inner latch (by feel). I disconnected the lock bar at the latch, and can flip the lock back and forth although it doesn't seem to travel as far as the other door to the unlocked (forward) position. ?? I've lubed inside with WD-40, and enven tried to shoot some WD-40 with a tube into the door crack, and also through a small hole that is in the door near the latch to get to the latch itself. The door still does not open, with either the inside handel, the popper, or with my fingers pulling directly on the various levers.
I actually think this may be a lack of lubrication on the latch release in the door jamb, not a problem with the manual lock and the popper. I recommend everyone lube your door jamb latch releases. The one on my operating door works much better after I did this.
But I still have a driver door stuck closed. Can anyone suggest anything further to do? I do not have the new latch for reference Mike, but will try to get one tomorrow. But I've been using the passenger door latch as a reference. I don't see where a "bent screwdriver" would go to open the latch. Help please!!!
When this is all fixed, I'll put together a step-by-step with photos to show how to do it. I've taken some photos of my popper installation too and will add them to that forum.
Curt
I managed to get the inner door panel loose enough to reach around to the latch. I took the seatbelt real out so I have good access to the whole inner latch (by feel). I disconnected the lock bar at the latch, and can flip the lock back and forth although it doesn't seem to travel as far as the other door to the unlocked (forward) position. ?? I've lubed inside with WD-40, and enven tried to shoot some WD-40 with a tube into the door crack, and also through a small hole that is in the door near the latch to get to the latch itself. The door still does not open, with either the inside handel, the popper, or with my fingers pulling directly on the various levers.
I actually think this may be a lack of lubrication on the latch release in the door jamb, not a problem with the manual lock and the popper. I recommend everyone lube your door jamb latch releases. The one on my operating door works much better after I did this.
But I still have a driver door stuck closed. Can anyone suggest anything further to do? I do not have the new latch for reference Mike, but will try to get one tomorrow. But I've been using the passenger door latch as a reference. I don't see where a "bent screwdriver" would go to open the latch. Help please!!!
When this is all fixed, I'll put together a step-by-step with photos to show how to do it. I've taken some photos of my popper installation too and will add them to that forum.
Curt
Gavin
Enthusiast
Doors lockets shut on my 96 GTS
Tried resetting thr alrm - no effect
Disconnected the + battery cable - under the hood - fixed the problem.
Tried resetting thr alrm - no effect
Disconnected the + battery cable - under the hood - fixed the problem.
Flyng Low
VCA Member
Disregard my last post - I'm in. I took the passenger door lock out so I could examine it and found the "magic release tab". I made a little tool ("bent screwdriver") and used it to hit the magic tab on the locked drivers door and it popped open. I'm off to church now, but will finish tomorrow, then write up an illustrated How-To-Open-a-Stuck-Door submission. I suspect this won't be the last one...
Curt Flyg Low again!
Curt Flyg Low again!
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